Bar lenght advice for 460

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1savagehunter

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Ok - here is the deal. I bought a 460 with 20" bar 1.5 yrs ago and have been flooded with requests to fall "large stuff". I am also 6'4" so the ol back takes a beating when limbing and bucking smaller stuff. So last week a guy was basically giving away a 28" - new bar so I aquired it. I will be using the longer bar to obviously cut the larger stuff but will also try using the longer bar to spare my back. Would you use a skip or full chisel. I've heard for any limbing the skip could be a pain. I know the 440/044 can run a 25" bar so the 460 should do the 28" justice ???
 
I was using a 28" and full skip on my 046 for most of my firewood season last year. Worked just fine and certainly wasn't bad for bending over. Hell I could just walk mostly upright and cut off what I needed.

But then I just HAD to try something different, went with a 20", 8 pin, and full comp and loved the speed I picked up :chainsaw:

But to answer the question, I didn't really have any problems limbing with the 28 and full skip.
 
i think baileys carries the oregon light bars for like $130 and regular power match bars for like $65 and windsor speed tip bars are like $56 i think.
 
I'm 6'3" run a 460 with a 28" with half skip or full comp chain no problem with an 8 tooth sprocket. You'll way love the advantages limbing.

Oregon bars- cheaper and last as long as the Stihl.
 
Thanks Hammer ... that's what I wanted to know. The 8 tooth is still good enough on the 32" ... thought you'd have to drop back to a 7 tooth. I will be cutting large pine and spruce mostly with the obvious smaller birch for the wood stove. Do you find much difference between the 1/2 skip and full comp
 
+1 except that I'm only 5'8" and run it with full comp, not skip, pulls it just fine.

:cheers:

I'm 6'3" run a 460 with a 28" with half skip or full comp chain no problem with an 8 tooth sprocket. You'll way love the advantages limbing.

Oregon bars- cheaper and last as long as the Stihl.
 
I have a 460 with a 32" bar and another 460 with a 36" bar, both saws have full skip chisel square ground chain.

I prefer to use the 32" bar saw most of the time. Just the right length to stand up and cut stuff low down without bending over. No problem limbing with the full skip.

It is better to have a full skip chain and keep the speed of the chain up rather than to have a full comp chain and the chain slow down. The speed is what will do the fast cutting for you. Also more room between teeth for shavings to accumulate when cutting large diameter stuff.

The problems I would have with limbing would be if I used a short length bar and had to bend over constantly. My back would not last long!

The only problem with limbing and using a long bar is you HAVE to watch your bar and the tip of your bar constantly! Very easy for the tip to come in contact with something you did not intend to hit and have the saw kick up in the air or kickback.

So watch that tip constantly! Chainbreak on when moving around and tripping on stuff!
 
Your in soft wood a 32" with an 8tooth would work just fine. Ever try semi skip chain?
Yup thats combo I use in Doug fir, Cedar, Hemlock, and green BL Maple. I am 6'3" with32"bar
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24" bar & full chisel chain is the normal chain / bar. 32" semi skip chisel is the other bar that I have for big stuff.
 
Ok - here is the deal. I bought a 460 with 20" bar 1.5 yrs ago and have been flooded with requests to fall "large stuff". I am also 6'4" so the ol back takes a beating when limbing and bucking smaller stuff. So last week a guy was basically giving away a 28" - new bar so I aquired it. I will be using the longer bar to obviously cut the larger stuff but will also try using the longer bar to spare my back. Would you use a skip or full chisel. I've heard for any limbing the skip could be a pain. I know the 440/044 can run a 25" bar so the 460 should do the 28" justice ???

Your 460 will pull a 32" bar OK and scream with a 28. I run both on my 460 DP and am quite happy. As was said a LW bar should be a help too.
 
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