Bar oil viscosity

[v8titan]

I'm using a generic brand of bar oil in my saw. Maybe this is my first mistake... anyway there is no question that it is much thicker in the cold weather and It seems that the consumption rate of the oil is lower due to higher viscosity. Does this sound like good logic? Is there anyway to thin out the oil a little for cold weather operation....maybe adding a little clear kerosene or something. I have the oil flow rate set to max on my 034...my fear is that my new bar and chain are not getting enough oil.

 

[16gauge]

I'm using a generic brand of bar oil in my saw. Maybe this is my first mistake... anyway there is no question that it is much thicker in the cold weather and It seems that the consumption rate of the oil is lower due to higher viscosity. Does this sound like good logic? Is there anyway to thin out the oil a little for cold weather operation....maybe adding a little clear kerosene or something. I have the oil flow rate set to max on my 034...my fear is that my new bar and chain are not getting enough oil.

What is the Generic Brand? It should warm up with the saw and run better if you give it some time. I read of others here adding kerosene in the cold weather but I think they were talking about REALLY cold.

 

[Marco]

You may ring something off in your oiler if it gets real thick. You could add kerosene or diesel fuel.

 

[v8titan]

What is the Generic Brand? It should warm up with the saw and run better if you give it some time. I read of others here adding kerosene in the cold weather but I think they were talking about REALLY cold.

The generic brand is Power Care. I think I picked it up at Home Depot. For some reason this stuff seems thick. I was using my saw at 25 degrees or so. I'll try to add maybe 10% Kerosene and see how it moves through the saw. I guess my next question would be, it there a premium bar oil that I may want to pick up? I go through a couple of gallons or so a year cutting firewood.

 

[Rotax Robert]

Its about time this topic gets air time, makes for some good reading.

 

[spacemule]

If you want it to move, add a little fiber.

 

[bwalker]

I have rarely use winter bar oil and I live in a much colder climate than NJ. After the saw is started the heat from the muffler and crankcase quickly warms the oil.
I also use generic Walmart Supertech bar oil and have been for several years without issue.

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

I agree with Ben. The saw will warm it's own oil in short time. I will use a thinner "winter" oil in the remote reservoir on an Alaskan Mill, as it won't warm up from the saw, and it uses gravity to flow.

Jeff

 

[stihlatit]

I have rarely use winter bar oil and I live in a much colder climate than NJ. After the saw is started the heat from the muffler and crankcase quickly warms the oil.
I also use generic Walmart Supertech bar oil and have been for several years without issue.

Friggin WALMART !!!!!!!!!!Now there is some good quality crap. Hopefully there was no slave labour involved. For sure there were no children working at the refinery anyway.

Arnie

 

[spacemule]

Not to hijack the thread, but I have nothing against child labor. Afterall, I labored as a child.

 

[04ultra]

Not to hijack the thread, but I have nothing against child labor. Afterall, I labored as a child.

Child labor is what your mother did when she gave birth to you. What you recall is breast feeding which is not considered labor it's a pleasure..

 

[stihlatit]

Me thinks you have him pegged correctly Ultra>> I dont think he has worked in his childhood except for maybe take out the garbage when was reminded. Real child labour I am afraid is not a laughing matter.

Arnie

 

[Rspike]

I have rarely use winter bar oil and I live in a much colder climate than NJ. After the saw is started the heat from the muffler and crankcase quickly warms the oil.
I also use generic Walmart Supertech bar oil and have been for several years without issue.

The WalMart stuff is " not too bad" in the colder winter but too thin for summer use i think . I use the Poulan Pro Bar and chain and really like it . Thick , tacky and its "RED" ! a lot better to see than the brown/gray stuff . Just my thoughts .

 

[SWE#Kipp]

on the topic of child labor ,,, for most of the time they dont get payed for what they do, so my question is !?!? is it really child labor

ohh forgot i use them bar oil whole year around even if its -20 c outside or more ,,,

 

[v8titan]

I have rarely use winter bar oil and I live in a much colder climate than NJ. After the saw is started the heat from the muffler and crankcase quickly warms the oil.
I also use generic Walmart Supertech bar oil and have been for several years without issue.

I hadn't considered the fact that the saw is warming up the oil. I'll leave it alone for now. I do have another question however. I want to change the gas filter on my 034 (circa 1993) but the hose connecting it inside the tank is much too short to pull it through the opening to replace it. Anyone else have this problem in the past?

I'm already anticipating the comments like " hose too short....that's what she said"

 

[begleytree]

Reach a piece of wire with a hook bent into it, into the tank, hook the fuel line and pull it up. the hose will stretch enough to get the filter body outside the tank for changing.
-Ralph

 

[v8titan]

Reach a piece of wire with a hook bent into it, into the tank, hook the fuel line and pull it up. the hose will stretch enough to get the filter body outside the tank for changing.
-Ralph

I did manage to get the filter off. I had to remove the fuel line from the carb and push the tank grommet through and into the tank to get enough hose length to remove the filter.

 

[begleytree]

huh. I've never had to do that. Oh well, at least you got it changed.
-Ralph

 

[Lakeside53]

It is "short" and really is marginal when pulling. The older hoses break about 25% of the time, so they are probably ready to be replaced. I find you have to pull on the filter, get the hose just where you can clamp it with forceps, then pop on a new filter. Getting the entire filter and hose end outside the tank is just that little bit too much in many cases. Same on the older 026s. Stihl JUST bough out a new hose for the 026 that has the S bend (plenty of length) but fits the short hose style tanks. They may have also have done that for the 034. not sure.

 

[stihlgoin]

I just wanted to throw in my 2 cents worth (and no you can't get back any change)

I have used a couple different "off brands" of bar oil and have found that you pretty much get what you pay for... Now I have to say at this point I am NOT a Stihl dealer and Stihl is not paying me anything to make this point but I have used Explorer, Outdoorsman, Wood Tech, and Remedy brands of bar oil. The price range on these products was between $4.29 and $4.89 per gallon. I have no doubt that any product that is labeled as a "bar and chain oil" will PROBABLY serve its purpose for cutting firewoord.

Since I am on the verge of ramling on and on I want to close this reply by simply making my point. I believe that the best product for the $$$ is the Stihl bar oil... my local dealer sells it for $5.09 a gallon which is less than 25 cents more than the avg products.

Just my opinion