bearings

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bandmiller

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is their a reliable way to check rod and main bearings in the case after you have de-jugged a worn saw --is it worthwile to replace rings and/or piston or is re-jugging the only cure for a wornout saw
 
You should not hear any noise when you spin the crank. Grab the crank ends and give each a good wiggle. Any slop is bad. You shouldn't be able to pull the rod from perpendicular to the journal. Lateral rod movement is fine as it is designed this way. In my opinion the one thing that would signal the end of a saw is a bad crank.

I had an 045 that had a good crank and no slop at the ends, but a main bearing was locked up and the crank was rotating inside the inner race. Check this sort of stuff.

If you don't need to change the crank mains, I would at least replace the seals and the wrist pin bearing.

If your jug isn't messed up--gouged, scored, etc.--by all means, reuse it. Theoretically, a chrome or nikasil bore should far outlast an aluminum piston. Realistically bad things happen when you run straight gas, have an airleak, over-rev, forget the air filter, let the muffler plug up.

So long as the piston fit is good and the piston is in good shape, you can probably just re-ring it. Your discretion.

What saw is this you're working on?

Good luck, Chris Bean
 
CB, over the years I've had a couple of instances where the bearing has spun on the crank (not excessively but to the extent that the crank was polished where the bearing fit and not a real tight fit). I replaced the crank with a used one in both instances.

But, hindsight is there some way I could have used the crank? locktite??? rick
 
Deereguy:

I know exactly what you're talking about. In my case the fit was still tight. If I had some handy, I would have smeared a bit of Loctite on. So long as the fit isn't loose I would reuse the crank.

Chris B.
 
thank you chris the saw is a husky 266se i bought at a tractor show for 3.50 . low compression but will run, jug inside looks perfect piston good .I better look for outher causes good advice on the seals-----frank
 
you can take a good center punch and put a couple little dimples on the shaft where the bearing sits, then press the bearing back on.
Never done it on a saw, done it on semis and other motors before..
 
If the bearing becomes a slip fit on the crank BUT IS NOT LOOSE, I have had success with loctite stud and bearing mount(green).
Have saws running with 2 to 3 years on them with no trouble.
I ALWAYS use new bearings.
 

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