Best 60" Bar for milling

[Barthaigh]

Hi, I am looking for a 60" .375 / .063 gauge bar for my 3120xp. I was wondering if anyone has a any suggestions. I found a woodland pro and a GB titatanium. Are either of these better bars, ie stiffer, better wear etc. thanks for any input, Bart

 

[HUCKLEBERRY]

I recently purchased a 42" GB bar for my procut style mill and here is a little feedback from my experience.
-Price - @ $80 to my door new/unused off of Ebay
-Universal fit - the one I purchased will fit many saws with the use of different "bushings"
-Nose sprocket allows the use of either .375 or .404 pitch chain
-Appears to be of quality construction but I'm just now getting my mill finished so no feedback on longevity

The bad- I don't think that GB has a very strong US prescence but in the case of a chainsaw bar that wasn't a big deal for me.

Good luck........I sure wish I had a 3120xp to put on the end of my bar!

 

[mtngun]

-Nose sprocket allows the use of either .375 or .404 pitch chain

How does that work ?

 

[HUCKLEBERRY]

How does that work ?

I guess roller tip might be a better name for what my bar has than nose sprocket because it has no teeth. Bar looks a bit like a solid tip with a thin pulley riveted in it.

 

[mtngun]

OK, roller tip. I wouldn't mind having one of those for my 084. Which seller did you buy it from ?

 

[Brmorgan]

How does that work ?

Ya, I was wondering the same???


For the ultimate in durability and stiffness, it would be hard to beat a Cannon Superbar. The ones already mentioned have good reputations as well though.

 

[Deets066]

it would be hard to beat a Cannon Superbar. :agree2:

and bart just so u know cannon superbar and the woodland pro are the same bar

 

[HUCKLEBERRY]

OK, roller tip. I wouldn't mind having one of those for my 084. Which seller did you buy it from ?

mtngun,

Man I apologize but after looking for an hour I can't find any record of that purchase, which lets me know two things. Even though I'm positive I got it off the net/by mail it wasn't Ebay and it wasn't as recent as I remembered either. I'll keep looking and if I can find the info. I'll get it to you.

 

[BobL]

I would be interested to know the amount of sag the cannon superbar has when it laid flat horizontally.

BTW I have noticed my magnetic anti sag device is losing its magnetic holding power. I suspect this is because it is being vibrated by being permanently mounted on the mill.
Alternatives are
- remove from mill every time ie PITA
- replace magnet every so often, could be expensive
- change to another system?

 

[Deets066]

I would be interested to know the amount of sag the cannon superbar has when it laid flat horizontally.

I have a 50" superbar/woodland pro could check tomorrow, i know it sags some but couldn't tell ya how much

 

[hazard]

- change to another system?

Could you create something that pushes up from the bottom that is adjustable along the rails that are parallel to the bar?

I am of no help on the bar question. sorry

 

[BobL]

I would be interested to know the amount of sag the cannon superbar has when it laid flat horizontally.

I have a 50" superbar/woodland pro could check tomorrow, i know it sags some but couldn't tell ya how much

I measure the sag by placing the bar in the mill and placing a straight edge as long as the bar along the top of the bar and then using a feeler gauge to measure the maximum sag under the straight edge.

Could you create something that pushes up from the bottom that is adjustable along the rails that are parallel to the bar?

That's basically what is done. People use ply wood or plastic hooks just to hold the bar level while it starts cutting. I was thinking something more robust that actually clamps to or even passes thru a hole in the bar itself.

 

[Can8ianTimber]

I love my 60" cannon superbar and wish I had a 60" as well. My 60" bar is a cheapo and 60" is the most common length I use. Oh well,

My vote is Cannon

 

[DaltonPaull]

I'm going to have my next bar (60-70" haven't decided) custom made locally by chain bar repair in Milwaukie. They make the best looking milling bars I've ever seen and have pretty reasonable prices too. They make the bar extra wide (8" or so) in the middle for lower sag. According to the owner, they make the bars Grainberg sells. You might want to call them for a quote.

 

[BobL]

I'm going to have my next bar (60-70" haven't decided) custom made locally by chain bar repair in Milwaukie. They make the best looking milling bars I've ever seen and have pretty reasonable prices too. They make the bar extra wide (8" or so) in the middle for lower sag. According to the owner, they make the bars Grainberg sells. You might want to call them for a quote.

That's interesting because extra width doesn't normally help sag, not even a little. The main reason for making them wider in the middle is to reduce the chances of the chain shooting off the bar when the bar is held horizontal.

 

[Daninvan]

The main reason for making them wider in the middle is to reduce the chances of the chain shooting off the bar when the bar is held horizontal.

OK Bob, can you help me out here, why does making the chain wider reduce the chances of the chain coming off when the bar is horizontal?

 

[gr8scott72]

OK Bob, can you help me out here, why does making the chain wider reduce the chances of the chain coming off when the bar is horizontal?

Not making the chain wider, making the bar wider at the middle. That's what helps keep the chain on a longer bar.

 

[BobL]

OK Bob, can you help me out here, why does making the chain wider reduce the chances of the chain coming off when the bar is horizontal?

It's not the chain that is wide - its the bar that is wider.

When a chain is driven round a sprocket it experiences a centrifugal force that makes it want to jump away from the sprocket.

Counteracting that is the chain tension which keeps the chain pulled down onto the sprocket and bar.

In addition the pull of the sprocket pulls the chain into the pickup side of the sprocket and generates less tension on the chain on the outgoing side.

The reduced tension on the outgoing side combined with the centrifugal force can (if the chain is loose) lift the chain drive links right out of the bar groove. The chain forms an shallow arc through the air before it dives back down by overall chain tension.

When the bar is held vertically as in bucking this is less of a problem as gravity helps hold any loose outgoing chain down on the bar.
If the chain/bar are laying on their side the chain can droop off the bar and if a drive link hits a rail top the chain can jump the bar.
The problem is worst when the bar is still cool and the chain is hot, like at the beginning of a cut

The problem is greater for long straight bars which leave little room for error in chain tension adjustment or stretching.

If a bar is made with some additional arcing width, the shallow arc of chain lifting off the bar generated by the drive sprocket is more closely matched to the bar than for a straight bar and so the chain more easily stays on the bar. That's why racing bars have such curved bar width profiles.

 

[DaltonPaull]

It's possible that I misunderstood the purpose of the extra width. Now that I think about it, the bar would be stronger but also heavier so it might have similar sag. I'll have to ask them about that. My memory has them substantially wider than the WoodsmasPRO bar above.

I forgot to mention that all the bars that I,ve seen in their shop are double ended for use with a helper handle. I'm not sure if they can put a tip on them or not.

 

[BobL]

It's possible that I misunderstood the purpose of the extra width. Now that I think about it, the bar would be stronger but also heavier so it might have similar sag.

That's what happens.

One can of course make bars out of even stiffer steel but most brand name bars are already close to the limit of steel in that regard.