Best chainsaw safety boots

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I have a pair of Stihl Pro Mark boots. I believe they're made in the US by SwedePro. I bought mine for 1/3 what they now sell for new. LINK

protboots700x691.png
 
I'm on my 3rd year with my Viking brand goofy orange rubber chainsaw boots.
They're about 110$ and worth every penny.
The only time I have to cut or split wood is in the snow or mud, so I like the rubber ones.
 
Some guy's make not think they are the same as a safety boot, different in ways I guess. But nothing has ever protected my feet like my whites. Higher for ankle support, and I have hit mine more than once with a saw, and they saved my foot more than once. And they have multiple uses. If you are in steep ground you cant beat those soles for traction, and those big heels are like brakes, when you are coming down, and sliding down hills and trails.
 
What makes them chainsaw boots?

Its hard to beat Danners Super Rainforest with steel toe. Watch the video on their site to get an idea why they're $370, you get what you pay for. I have two pair so I can rebuild one pair and still have one pair on my feet. The can rebuild ANY part of the boot you wear out!

Danner - Super Rain Forest? Non-Metallic Safety Toe Work Boots - Boots
 
What makes them chainsaw boots?

Kevlar. Your boots don't have any. A steel toe (I know, your boots toe caps aren't steel) is better than nothing, but a bar tip will bounce off the cap and find something softer that it can cut through.

I have these-

Matterhorn 10-inch Steel Toe Chainsaw Boot #12277

My only complaint is the toe box is a little tight, but after a few minutes you don't notice it. Then again, I have a foot like a Yeti, and most shoes are tight unless they are EEE. They are super supportive and are very stable in the woods, and are worth every penny for the peace of mind.
 
Matterhorn Boots

MMurph, no doubt the Matterhorns look great; do they also have metal across the metatarsal portion of the foot. I am very close to purchasing these boots.
 
Some guy's make not think they are the same as a safety boot, different in ways I guess. But nothing has ever protected my feet like my whites. Higher for ankle support, and I have hit mine more than once with a saw, and they saved my foot more than once. And they have multiple uses. If you are in steep ground you cant beat those soles for traction, and those big heels are like brakes, when you are coming down, and sliding down hills and trails.


No better boots out there for logging than WhitesBoots that's for sure.
 
I like my whites smokejumpers. Expensive, but once they have properly broken in your feet they are very comfortable. Unfortunately, boot leather and a sock is the only thing between my foot and the chainsaw chain so they offer about the same protection as a pair of sneakers. You can order them with a steel or plastic toe but it would probably just add weight.
 
In the other thread linked to, someone mentioned that there aren't enough Kevlar fibers in chainsaw safety boots to bind up and stop a chain.

Considering how the Kevlar boots I've tried on don't seem much/any thicker than standard leather work boots, that made sense to me. Really, how much Kevlar can they pack in there without getting the wall of to boot thick? Does anyone have vid of boots stopping a chain? I'm not saying it's not possible, but I want to see one in action.

Or is it Kevlar plate in there, not fibers?

Anyway, FWIW I use Carolina Boots (about $150) with the steel toe and metatarsal flap. They're really not that heavy.
 
Metal is for impact not cut resistance.

What type of chain you running? The metals around me are all pretty cut-resistant compared to the chainsaws. Either I need to learn how to file a chain for sharpness better or get a bigger engine on the saw. :msp_tongue:
 
[re Whites] I have hit mine more than once with a saw, and they saved my foot more than once. And they have multiple uses. If you are in steep ground you cant beat those soles for traction, and those big heels are like brakes, when you are coming down, and sliding down hills and trails.

None of those look to be rebuildable. Once the sole's worn out, you throw them away.

my first Nick's resole job should be here by Wed. I missed them boots while they were gone, even while wearing my other Nick's.

No better boots out there for logging than WhitesBoots that's for sure.
Whites, Nicks, etc--the high-arch hand-built rules. Since 2005 I've worn nothing but, and no longer need foot doctor care/orthodics (as i did in my Danner years).

I like my whites smokejumpers. Expensive, ... about the same protection as a pair of sneakers.
? cost average the purchase price, plus rebuilds/resoles over the course of what-20 years. See what is expensive. Sneakers? WTF you buy sneakers with as much leather as the tongue of a hand-built? How about Kevlar socks? Heavy leather slows the chain faster than canvas or psuedo-leather all day long it does i'm tellin' you ask Normzilla four four.

What type of chain you running? The metals around me are all pretty cut-resistant compared to the chainsaws. Either I need to learn how to file a chain for sharpness better or get a bigger engine on the saw. :msp_tongue:

yeah, them steel toes _are_ for crush resistance, but will deflect a chain pretty good, AND just cover the toes. no instep no ankle no lower leg "protection" just can't leave the house anymore.

White's, Nick's, or same style/quality. Your feet will thank you 10 years from now, long after you should have forgotten the price. Get some nomex/kevlar socks and have the safety toe added-it's an option in handmades--everything is. If I'd bought Nick's 1/2 year sooner, I would have saved $500 at the podiatrist.

Be careful out there. the best saftey device available is mounted between your ears.
 
I prefer Redwing loggers. They are not chainsaw boots but they are super high quality. I knicked my boot with a saw for the first time ever this summer. it happened really quick and gave me that ohh sh$% feeling for a second. thank god for steel toes. anyway kevlar is a great idea i should get a pair.....
 
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