Best combo bar/chain for alaskan mill?

[betterbuilt]

You need a sharp bit. I usually start with a 1/8 and work my way up. You need to drill really slow 300-400 rpms. In a cordless drill set it on low gear and go slower. I'd use a drill press if you can borrow one for a few minutes. You can use cutting oil or even water to help keep the bit cool.

I sure everyone's gonna have their own preference on the type of bit. I have some old bits that I use to drill holes with. They aren't anything special. I find a drill press makes all difference. Take a break and give the bit some time to cool. That might help also.

 

[mtngun]

The only thing that has been able to drill the nose on my bars is carbide.

Use the lowest possible speed speed and lots of pressure. If it stops cutting and merely rubs, it'll work harden the steel and even carbide will have a tough time breaking through.

The main part of the bar is not as hard as the nose, and you can probably get by with a HSS drill there. Again, use a low speed and lots of pressure, don't let it merely rub.

Your partially drilled nose is probably work hardened now, so when you get your hands on a carbide drill, flip the nose over and drill from the other side.

 

[betterbuilt]

I just went out to the shop to drill two holes in a bar. I set the drill press up for 300 rpm's, with an cheap but new 1/8 in bit and drilled the first hole in about 45 seconds. The second hole using a cordless drill and the bit didn't touch the bar it started to walk around before it broke.

I now make a revision find a drill press or buy a bunch of bits.

 

[BobL]

If the drill is skating I guess I should ask, did you use a centre punch to indent the bar? You will need a decent quality centre punch , those cheap chinese ones will just flatten out.

I use a brand new, decent quality Cobalt drill bit at 160 RPM, water soluble oil as a lube and a lot of firm pressure. A new bit can drill 3-4 bars before it needs attention.

If you only have a minimum of 300 rpm then a 1/8" bit will be a better way to start.

Tip: drill one side until the bit just breaks through - the drill from the other side or you will get a serious bur that needs to be removed.

 

[betterbuilt]

If the drill is skating I guess I should ask, did you use a centre punch to indent the bar? You will need a decent quality centre punch , those cheap chinese ones will just flatten out.

I use a brand new, decent quality Cobalt drill bit at 160 RPM, water soluble oil as a lube and a lot of firm pressure. A new bit can drill 3-4 bars before it needs attention.

If you only have a minimum of 300 rpm then a 1/8" bit will be a better way to start.

Tip: drill one side until the bit just breaks through - the drill from the other side or you will get a serious bur that needs to be removed.

The original question was posted by SLIMw. I was only trying to show a cheap but sharp bit can drill a hole. Your right I didn't punch it, I should have in retrospect. I didn't use any lube on either hole.

 

[betterbuilt]

I went and punched it and drilled a second hole in the nose with another 1/8 inch bit with the drill in high and only running the drill in a intermittently. It drilled fine also. No lube.

Thanks for the tip BobL

 

[mtngun]

Ya, but the center of the nose is bearing material, harder than the surrounding bar. Best drilled with carbide.

 

[betterbuilt]

got Ya. I was afraid to drill in there on a good bar.

 

[SLIMw]

Well I finally got my mill runinng again! I guess I didnt give enough info to begin with, but the reason I went ahead and bought another bar is the 32" bar and one chain I had were about wore out. I had the bar as far in as I could get it without hitting the guard and still had too much of the powerhead hanging out on the other side. It seemed really flimsy. I got the 28" bar thinking it would be plenty enough for my 24" mill. Bailey's says a minimum of 26" bar ( im guessing the mean hard nose) because mine wouldn't fit. I bought a carbide bit and it ate right through the bar with no problems.

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I was able to pretty much max out the mill, only about 3/8" left. The wheels I added fit perfectly in the existing bolt holes.
I used a 1/4" drill bit and bolt for the bar and tapped the mill for fine thread
(28) bolts 1" long. My only concerne is they might rattle out while milling, I guess ill find out tomorrow.

 

[BobL]

Looks good.

(28) bolts 1" long. My only concerne is they might rattle out while milling, I guess ill find out tomorrow.

Did you use stiff spring washers?

 

[SLIMw]

Here are some pics of the rail I made about a year ago. It works pretty well but I will be gettin some unistrut. Mine is made from angle aluminum. I added the 4 metal dawgs in the middle to hold the rail. I used two 10' lengths sandwiched together on each side. It works pretty well. I put them so that the small skinny part of the angle is where the mill rides. I was thinking the smaller surface area on contact with the mill the less drag but it didnt quite turn out that way.

 

[SLIMw]

Looks good.



Did you use stiff spring washers?

I will definitely be getting some.

 

[mtngun]

I bought a carbide bit and it ate right through the bar with no problems.

Good job.

I don't think your method will pinch the sprocket, but watch it closely for overheating, just in case. If the sprocket does appear to be rubbing, you may need to put a washer between the bar and the mill.

Interesting guide rail. It looks rigid enough. I highly recommend 1/8" x 1" adhesive backed UHMW for your Alaskan rails to greatly reduce friction.

 

[BobL]

On my first set of 3/4 x 1.5" rails I had adjustable height steel dogs located about every 3ft along the length of the log rails but after running into them several times I gave up. What I'm eventually planning on doing is making a set of dogs out of 1/2" thick ally plate so it doesn't matter so much if I run into them. With my luck, if I make them out of steel I will run into them but if I make them out of ally I won't

I was thinking the smaller surface area on contact with the mill the less drag but it didnt quite turn out that way.

One of the best ways to reduce drag is to use HMWPE skids under the mill. Another trick is to apply a thin layer of liquid silicone car polish over both the log and mill rails. A miller I know keeps a rag impregnated with this polish and give both sets of rails a wipe over before starting. Something like beeswax might also work. I think it would be important to make sure there was a little as possible left on the rails otherwise it will pick up grit and sawdust.