Best method(s) for root aeration

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Crazy Canuck

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There are a very large number of trees around here with soil compaction problems. Nobody is offering any solution around here to the best of my knowledge and I'd like to start offering it as a service to my clients. What are the best methods, in your opinion, for doing this?
 
Thsi is similar to Dan's way, and Bartlett's patented method (use the search function here for threads on this, CC!):

This is right, so my (radical?) method of vm uses 45 degree angled holes, made with
a miner's pick. Using this tool allows fracturing of the soil well beyond the hole,
by simply pushing back on the handle. I typically fill the holes with 1 part compost,
1 part soil coniditioner (mostly fine pine bark and gravel fines), and 1 part expanded
slate aggregate (stalite). This mix is similar to Cornell's blend of CU soil.

The mix is blended into the holes with a jet of water from the garden hose. Yes
all this is high-labor going in--I've demo'd it at workshops like macisa and gotten
a lot of blank disbelieving looks from folks who seem to think that no method can
be feasible if it does not involve the use of power machinery. Add to the disadvantage
of augering the FACT that it cuts roots, no matter the distance from the trunk.

I've used airspades and airknives on compacted clay. It felt like my arm was going
to break, like that poor fellow's did while augering. Neither tool made acceptable
progress, and watching that air blast the skin off of 1" oak roots was injury
on top of insult. I'm perplexed by the patenting of this method, as it has been
widely used for over ten years, since Gary Watson brought over the concept of radial
trenching from London from Tienanmen square (you think we have compaction problems--they
have tank traffic grinding human bones into the earth to mitigate!).
 
i've seen hollow core drills driven in with jack hammer, then compressed air with whatever else blown in. seems like a good idea? we usually heavily mulch with composted woodchip and fence off to lessen impact. must try compost tea though, sounds good.
 
Thor's Hammer said:
i've seen hollow core drills driven in with jack hammer, then compressed air with whatever else blown in. seems like a good idea? we usually heavily mulch with composted woodchip and fence off to lessen impact. must try compost tea though, sounds good.

Apart from composted tea ,the rest you have mentioned seems a bad idea,DRILLS,JACK HAMMERS.. :angry:
 
ROLLACOSTA said:
Apart from composted tea ,the rest you have mentioned seems a bad idea,DRILLS,JACK HAMMERS.. :angry:
Seriously, these are actuall systems I've seen sold at shows. I just wondered if anyone had experience of them.. the lance was only 1/2 inch thick, cant see it doing a lot of damage to the root system... again I would like to know if any body else has used them.
:Eye:
 
Thor's Hammer said:
Seriously, these are actuall systems I've seen sold at shows. ... again I would like to know if any body else has used them.
:Eye:
I used one a few times but never bought it. Research results on it--"Grow-Gun"--were not so good; consensus was that it broke up soil only along existing fracture lines, then it all went down back to whe eit was before, unchanged.
 
We are doing a restoration project where fill and topsoil was placed on a stand of Q. alba, rubrum and Carya ovata. Some up to two feet deep with retainign walls on the butress'.

The project started out as simple basal-ex and radial trench followed by a drench of PHC Plus, but we had such deep pits that we are now removing most of the fill.

I'm using the air tool to find where the root plate begins and a mini excavator is removing the soil, then I use the air tool to bore for a vert mulch in the compacted sandy-clay soil and vert mulch with the topsoil spoil.

In some areas I've found three O layers in a 50 year old landscape.

When we finnish we will be installing a "dry riverbed" landscape on the steep slope to avoid washout of the remidiated soil and allow for future visits to build the heavily compacted sandy clay that appears to be the old construction road.

IMO the air tools are the best for large scale work (I've used water too, even big sprinkler systems with 75PSI) and do less damage then picks and shovels.

If you only do a few trees a year then the garden hose aproach is the best.

I've used 2 home made airtools like Mike Maas has and they work fine for all but the most compacted soils.
 

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