Best Rip chain

[Walnut33]

Hey guys just wondering what the best rip chain for the money is out there. I will be getting a new 880 Magnum next month and think im gonna buy chain in a 50 foot roll. What do you guys like and why? Also 0 or 10 degree?

 

[mtngun]

If money is no object, the Granberg chain is supposed to be the best.

Most of us use the Bailey's (Carlton) ripping chain because it is a good value.

You don't need 50 feet of chain unless you plan on milling something that has embedded rocks and nails.

When I started milling, I bought 5 loops, thinking I'd be going through lots of chain. As it turns out, I typically use two chains in a full day of milling. Sometimes 3 chains. I haven't worn out a milling chain yet, either.

3 loops is plenty. I swap them in the field, then sharpen them on a grinder at home.

For a 120 cc saw, most people use 3/8 x 0.063". One AS member prefers .325" x 0.063" for bars up to 42", claiming it is a little faster than 3/8". The .325 milling chain and bars are a little hard to come by, though.

 

[Brmorgan]

Get 3/8" semi-chisel full-house. I don't see any substantial advantage to running a 0° top plate - I run +/-10° and that already produces a smoother surface than pretty much any band or circular I've seen. If it's cheaper for you, you can even just start out with standard-profile semi-chisel chain and gradually file it back to ~10° as it wears. Truth be told though, if it's kept sharpened properly, even at 25° semi-chisel will cut pretty smoothly. 25° full-chisel sucks though.

The best for the money would probably be WP/Carlton. I use mostly Oregon because that's the cheapest and easiest to get at my local shop, though I do have a couple Stihl chains too. Their cutters seem a bit tougher but it's more expensive to boot, so I'm not sure it's necessarily a better value..

 

[gemniii]

Best bang for buck is probably Baileys.

Note that an 880 can easily take a 5 foot bar and thus use over 10' of chain per loop.

 

[smokinj]

If money is no object, the Granberg chain is supposed to be the best.

Most of us use the Bailey's (Carlton) ripping chain because it is a good value.

You don't need 50 feet of chain unless you plan on milling something that has embedded rocks and nails.

When I started milling, I bought 5 loops, thinking I'd be going through lots of chain. As it turns out, I typically use two chains in a full day of milling. Sometimes 3 chains. I haven't worn out a milling chain yet, either.

3 loops is plenty. I swap them in the field, then sharpen them on a grinder at home.

For a 120 cc saw, most people use 3/8 x 0.063". One AS member prefers .325" x 0.063" for bars up to 42", claiming it is a little faster than 3/8". The .325 milling chain and bars are a little hard to come by, though.

Ok dumb question is there a quick way to pull off and replace with new chain?

 

[mtngun]

Ok dumb question is there a quick way to pull off the new chain?

Pull it off what ?

 

[smokinj]

Pull it off what ?

lol does the mill have to come off or is there a quicker way to replace the chain?

 

[huskyhank]

I use regular chain for milling and have no problem with surface finish. Keep the chain tensioned properly and pay attention to how you move the saw in the cut and you're good. I use 3/8 .063 on all my big saws. If I booger up a long chain it'll shorten to fit a shorter bar so I can get the full use of it.

Milling chains do cut a tiny bit smoother but they're not good for anything but milling. I used to use milling chain but I don't think its needed. I've never used the Granberg milling chain and it might be great but its about twice the cost of a regular chain.

You can modify the Alaskan mill so the chain can be removed without taking the mill off. I just file my chain in place. Its not that hard to do.

I agree that 3 chains is a good number to have - along with a box of good files. There are other things to have for your big saw (unless you have a dealer who stocks big saw parts and even then you'll need this stuff so just save a trip to the shop). Air filter, extra sprockets, a fuel tank vent, fuel filter, spark plugs, bar nuts.

 

[mtngun]

lol does the mill have to come off or is there a quicker way to replace the chain?

Yes, the standard Alaskan mill has to come off in order to swap chains.

My Alaskan is modified so that the bar stays on the mill while swapping chains. It's still a PITA, though, because the powerhead and mill are just so big and awkward.

It is also a PITA to file chains on a standard Alaskan. It can be done, but the mill gets in the way when it is set up for the normal 1" - 2" cut.

Which is why I am going to test the carbide-coated chain. If you could mill all day without messing with chains, that would be cool. I doubt if the coated chain will be that good, though, we'll see.

 

[Walnut33]

Awesome guys. Thanks alot! I really like the baileys chain on my smaller mills and I think Ill go with it on my bigger ones too then!