I'm not to familiar with stihls so I was wondering if anyone could lend a hand. I came across an 066 with a 4 footer. The guy wants 500.00. Is this reasonable. Is an 066 a reputable saw or is it a problem child?Thanks for the help.
big stihl
- Thread starter big1079
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DonE911
ArboristSite Lurker
the 066 is a great saw..... the stick that others are measured by.
Others with more input will be along shortly.
Is 500 a good deal on the saw??? that depends on its condition.... a new one is twice that price.
Others with more input will be along shortly.
Is 500 a good deal on the saw??? that depends on its condition.... a new one is twice that price.
DanManofStihl
ArboristSite Guru
Stihl saw
I own a 066 magnum you need to look it over good the problem with those saws is that they are used as logging saws mostly day in and day out and by the time most sell them they are warn out especailly if it is coming with a 36 inch bar already. They are great saws and with some maintance will last a long time though. What type of condition is in it running condition condition of the plastic? You should try to pick it up by the pull starter cord to see how long it takes to turn over it should be able to hold it self up for about 20 seconds or so letting down slowly. Are you sure the bar is a 4 footer Most of the 066 are outfitted with the 3 foot 36 inch bar. It is hard to tell if it is worth $500.00 with out pics. I payed $450.00 for mine and it had great compression and power that was 2 years ago and it is still going strong.
I own a 066 magnum you need to look it over good the problem with those saws is that they are used as logging saws mostly day in and day out and by the time most sell them they are warn out especailly if it is coming with a 36 inch bar already. They are great saws and with some maintance will last a long time though. What type of condition is in it running condition condition of the plastic? You should try to pick it up by the pull starter cord to see how long it takes to turn over it should be able to hold it self up for about 20 seconds or so letting down slowly. Are you sure the bar is a 4 footer Most of the 066 are outfitted with the 3 foot 36 inch bar. It is hard to tell if it is worth $500.00 with out pics. I payed $450.00 for mine and it had great compression and power that was 2 years ago and it is still going strong.
I have a comp gauge I can take along. What kind of numbers should i look for on a 66.I know the 100cc homeys should read anywere from 150-180.are all 66's 96 cc's. I'm not concerned about logging. I believe this is a farm saw and the guy is getting rid of it because he realized he didn't need a monster like that to clear tree limbs for his combine.
big1079 said:
066's are 92cc. 064's are 84cc. They are very close to the same saw, with the 066 being the newer version.
Good compression numbers would be somewhere in that range yes, possibly a touch higher or lower, depending upon the engine condition, elevation, and other minor factors.
As said, if it is in decent shape, not beat to death and has good compression, that is a decent price. You can find them for less, but most are more than that.
DanManofStihl
ArboristSite Guru
066
Most of the 066s I have had read around 130 or 150 I don't see many saws above that. Different testers can have different results though. Ask him how many tanks of fuel it has had or how many hours it has on it and what type of oil it has been used in it.
Most of the 066s I have had read around 130 or 150 I don't see many saws above that. Different testers can have different results though. Ask him how many tanks of fuel it has had or how many hours it has on it and what type of oil it has been used in it.
Diesel JD
ArboristSite Guru
Your compression numbers don't mean jack unless you have a gauge intended for small engines. Someone here will tell you what type of gauge that will be. It has something to do with teh placement of teh schrader valve, but that's all I remember. I do know an auto or marine type will give you deceptively low readings. Good compressiona nd good spark, buy that saw, you could flip it for more if it hasn't been beat to death.
DonE911
ArboristSite Lurker
many many tanks of fuel ago my 066's pulled 145-155lbs on a correct guage, but the starter rope test can tell you what you need to know in that department.
Pollock777
ArboristSite Member
Compression
Dielsel JD nothing for nothing I've hear of other compression ga. for diesel engines but not small engines I just got off the phone with my Snap-on deal to ask him and he said the same thing. If you could help me in this I'd be thankful. Because I've been using my snap-on ga. and I've never heard of this. I also check with my Stihl dealer he uses the same one I use from Snap-on?????????? and my readings are the same as yours on my stihls 130 to 165 using a pro ga.
Dielsel JD nothing for nothing I've hear of other compression ga. for diesel engines but not small engines I just got off the phone with my Snap-on deal to ask him and he said the same thing. If you could help me in this I'd be thankful. Because I've been using my snap-on ga. and I've never heard of this. I also check with my Stihl dealer he uses the same one I use from Snap-on?????????? and my readings are the same as yours on my stihls 130 to 165 using a pro ga.
Pollock777 said:
Small engines are so called because their displacement is small. This means they can only move small volumes of air. If you use a gauge that has a long hose, with no Shrader valve at the plug end, as some gauges intended for larger displacment car engines are, the volume of the hose that must have the air compressed each revolution can be a significant factor, and cause low readings. This is so because the air is compressed on the compression stroke, but significant compression is lost because it never makes it to the gauge before the piston begins the intake stroke and the air compressed in the hose recoils back out into the cylinder. Judging by your readings, I would bet your gauge has the valve, and you need not worry.
Pollock777
ArboristSite Member
Diesel the better ga.'s all have that valve the ga.'s your talking about I haven't seen in years but I do remenber and they gave bad readings in general because when you cranked the engine over even in big engines some air went back into the cylinder giving you an incorrect reading. But I do remember the ga.'s Thank you for giving me a better understanding of what you ment. Talking about samething just didn't understand.
my snap-on compression guage has a schrader valve near tip. this allows the buildup of pressure, so volume of piston makes no difference. you may need to spin it a few times to build up max pressure. naturally you need to release pressure for each reading.
066
Thanks for all the help. I am using a gauge w/valve. I use it on chainsaws and my 400 chevy race motor in my pulling truck. It works on both.I talked with a guy who is ase master mech and a mac distrubator and he has never heard of a smaal engine only gauge. 3 crank rotations are required for a max and accurate reading with any kind of compression test.
Thanks for all the help. I am using a gauge w/valve. I use it on chainsaws and my 400 chevy race motor in my pulling truck. It works on both.I talked with a guy who is ase master mech and a mac distrubator and he has never heard of a smaal engine only gauge. 3 crank rotations are required for a max and accurate reading with any kind of compression test.
