Binding trees

[1I'dJak]

I've go a job removing several hard...and I mean hard leaning red alder trees (alnus rubrus)....These trees are often exremely prone to barber chairing and some of them seem to lean at least on a 45...maybe even more...Yikes! On a couple I may be climbing past my tie in point on nearby trees...I'm thinking of binding these trees as I climb up and then using westcoast cuts (coos bay cuts) and cutting as small as pieces as I can (without going too much past my TIP)...What have you guys used as binders (chain, heavy duty ratchet straps, etc)? Any suggestions...the pucker factor on this job is gonna be high!

 

[clearance]

Hi Jak. I use a good chain, like grade 70 transport, with a load binder. You can get that at Lordco or a similar place. Alders do chair, been there. I like to saw into the backcut by nosing through the undercut, then using the triangle back cut method. Whatever you do don't be behind where it will most likely chair. Tied into to another tre, yes. Maybe you can fast cut some tops as well. Good luck.

 

[T1MB3RWOLF]

bore cut

I've go a job removing several hard...and I mean hard leaning red alder trees (alnus rubrus)....These trees are often exremely prone to barber chairing and some of them seem to lean at least on a 45...maybe even more...Yikes! On a couple I may be climbing past my tie in point on nearby trees...I'm thinking of binding these trees as I climb up and then using westcoast cuts (coos bay cuts) and cutting as small as pieces as I can (without going too much past my TIP)...What have you guys used as binders (chain, heavy duty ratchet straps, etc)? Any suggestions...the pucker factor on this job is gonna be high!

I`m not sure what the westcoast cut is, but I use a bore cut to prevent barberchairs. You make the face notch as usual, then do a bore cut into the tree leaving about about 15% holding wood on the back, where you would normally start the back cut. So, bore into the tree and cut towards your face notch, to your hinge. Then do the back cut. I would recommend practicing on the ground first. And I am not familiar with the red alder, so be carefull.

 

[1I'dJak]

Load binder eh? Sounds good...I was thinking of putting one close to the base and one close to where I make the cut...moving it down as i work down the tree, so ease of setting up the binders are key.... I plan on just using the westcoast cut or coos bay cut as beranek calls it...just cutting each side of the stem, leaving a holding strip in the middle... then rev the #### outta the saw and cut'er loose... don't wanna screw around with an undercut... I especially don't want to end up on the low side of these trees...that would be a big pain...

 

[clearance]

After you use the loadbinder, tie is so it can't come loose, like by getting hit by a branch. Bore cutting can cause the saw to get pinched on real heavy leaners, so it says in the old fallers and buckers handbook. That westcoast cut, I heard it called "leaving a post" Same thing.

 

[RedlineIt]

Chain with a binder as well.

As clearance says, tie the lever down. I have a good supply of rebar tie-wire on a spool so I use that, but whatever you got.

Don't piss around with a 45 degree leaner of an Alder with a bore cut. You're just pissing that tree off and asking it to do you no good.

(Bore cut has it's place, it's not in the air.)

The Coos bay cut is what I would use, expecting it to still splinter.

And then, like my moniker, Redline that saw for the last bit!

Worst vibes I've ever had was taking tops out of Alder, and I don't mean anything spititual. I mean the oscillations were just wicked and seemed to not end.

Brace yourself, Bro.

RedlineIt.

 

[T1MB3RWOLF]

coos bay cut

Chain with a binder as well.

As clearance says, tie the lever down. I have a good supply of rebar tie-wire on a spool so I use that, but whatever you got.

Don't piss around with a 45 degree leaner of an Alder with a bore cut. You're just pissing that tree off and asking it to do you no good.

(Bore cut has it's place, it's not in the air.)

The Coos bay cut is what I would use, expecting it to still splinter.

And then, like my moniker, Redline that saw for the last bit!

Worst vibes I've ever had was taking tops out of Alder, and I don't mean anything spititual. I mean the oscillations were just wicked and seemed to not end.

Brace yourself, Bro.

RedlineIt.

I`m glad I joined this site before my bore cuts got me hurt! Google has no info on west coast or coos bay cut, can someone describe how exactly its done??? And when should it be used. Thanks fellas.

 

[1I'dJak]

a west coast or coos bay cut is intended for heavy leaners....it minimizes barberchairing...a cut is made in each side of the stem, leaving a strip in the middle in the direction of the lean (this cut obviously has not directional control)... then you rev the piss outta your saw and cut the holding stip... i've used is a couple of times on leaning alder trees and so far so good... this is how i intend to take the tops off these trees....

 

[1I'dJak]

Would a adjustable friction saver or a steelcore with macrograb ascender work as a binder? I'm planning on using a loadbinder on bottom and maybe something a little smaller and more portable just below the cut...

 

[BC WetCoast]

Would a adjustable friction saver or a steelcore with macrograb ascender work as a binder? I'm planning on using a loadbinder on bottom and maybe something a little smaller and more portable just below the cut...

/Wouldn't you want it just above the cut, where it is likely to barberchair?

 

[1I'dJak]

I'm playing it safe...these are pretty hard leaners and alders are extremely unpredictable... I was worried that they might split further down the stem from where I'm topping it (that's where most of the tension is) and splitting all the way to the bottom...I'd be sketched out to even fall these things...

 

[highpointtree]

Some pic's of binding a nasty split

http://www.flickr.com/photos/24534280@N02/4282666013/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/24534280@N02/4282669731/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/24534280@N02/4283414732
http://www.flickr.com/photos/24534280@N02/4283411736/





I hope these pics work. havn't posted much as far as pic's go..we used 4 conventionnal binders and one ratchet near the middle. for the one that spans the leads we notched out some wood so the chain wouldn't be tempted to slide down the tree as it tightened..

 

[T1MB3RWOLF]

coos bay cut

a west coast or coos bay cut is intended for heavy leaners....it minimizes barberchairing...a cut is made in each side of the stem, leaving a strip in the middle in the direction of the lean (this cut obviously has not directional control)... then you rev the piss outta your saw and cut the holding stip... i've used is a couple of times on leaning alder trees and so far so good... this is how i intend to take the tops off these trees....

Thanks for the tip, so I`m assuming you just use common sense on how deep to make the side cuts. Now, when would you use the bore cut, on slight leaners? And the coos bay on hard leaners?
Alders. Are they like a poplar, or an aspen?