Blocks/Sling

[TREETX]

Any reccomendations here?? When I have the need for a sling and a block, I use "alternative methods". Mainly a rope sling and big CMI pulley, rigging with an old hank of bluestreak for a bull rope

We have lots-o big spreading trees and not much stick to block down so this has got me by.

Moving, I need to get some gear now. Freeworker and Drayer are more expensive plus my dollar is worth diddly so I need to stock up here. I was thinking some loopies and a Spring loc over a CMI block.

Input appreciated

btw - the bluestreak is getting replaced too

 

[tjk]

I love the loopies. I also recomend the CMI blocks over the spring loaded blocks. I have several CMI blocks that are 6 or 7 years old and are holding up great.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

i'm not sure i handle my large blocks enough to warrant the price of aluminum over steel.

i think that strength wise a large block, and loopie to hold it(?) is a miss-match except in basket position, then no choking grip; and not long enough for a round turn basket (to give some choke and basket strength) option.

The SWL's i think should match better, then the synthetic should IMLHO have a higher SWL instead of lower to boot; so as the synthetics degrade slightly as they wear(Break in?), and then be more even with block's strength. i take that hint from the differance in strengths required between climbing hardware and software(synthetics).

The Block, sling, and support will take 2x the load impact on the system;as has 2 legs of tensioned line to that point. Because with the control end locked down, the load acts as the power input for a 2/1 pull/pattern on the overhead redirect of the Block and it's position. If ya got a Porty for braking friction, it's sling wouldn't have to be as strong as the block's sling, for Porty only has 1 loaded/tensioned/pulling leg of line to it.

 

[geofore]

Blocks/slings

I would like to have helped you by leaving what you could use in Germany when I left last month rather than dragging it back home through customs. I got no reply from you so I brought home or gave away most of my tools. I did leave a car behind to be sold, the wife managed to put 1,100 kilometers on it last year while we were there. JPS said you were busy and that is probably why you did not respond.

This is the best I can do to give Nate a break, I would have liked to given him the tools instead.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Give Nate a break Geo, he had other things on his mind (or person).

I think loopie and spring block are the way to go, but then I've dropped pulley sheaves out of the tree before.

My problem with the plate metal pullies is that they can get bent if you put a side load on them. The big blocks will take more use out of the line of run. I think having some heavy clevices is a good idea too for when you want to redirect and the angle rules out a pulley/block.

 

[Lumberjack]

For anything major, I use the heavy steel blocks. I also use CMi for smaller things such as limbs, but I use a steel block on everything else.

Oh and right now I use whoopies, but I am fixin to make a coupla loopies.


Carl

 

[NickfromWI]

stick with the springs...

There is no reason to be up in a tree with a pulley that might have you dropping small parts. Go with the ISC aluminum. They are the tops!

love
nick

 

[Mahk]

Originally posted by John Paul Sanborn
... when you want to redirect and the angle rules out a pulley/block.

JPS;

I don't understand. Could you explain further?

Mahk

 

[Lumberjack]

Re: stick with the springs...

Originally posted by NickfromWI
There is no reason to be up in a tree with a pulley that might have you dropping small parts. Go with the ISC aluminum. They are the tops!

love
nick

I agree. I use the captive bushing cadium plated steel blocks from Sherrill.


On the thing with the shackle, to use the clevis is you put a sling around where you want the line to be, and put the sling on the screw as you don't want the rope to unscrew the clevis. That is good for fishpoling or where you redirect to spread out the load, because they are much cheaper than blocks, and work well on shallow angled bends.

Carl

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Originally posted by Mahk
JPS;

I don't understand. Could you explain further?

Mahk

Say you are trying to get the rope off the trunk ot a branch to reduce friction

using a block may cause the rope to run across the cheakplates, where the input and output angles (I know there 's a term that is more correct) do not run along the smae plane.