Boring Issues (No pun intended)

[KYLogger]

I cut almost all hardwood here in E. Ky, poplar, soft maple and a few pine too. Anyway I am currently running Stihl's RSF chain and I find I am having a really difficult time when I try to bore a big oak or hickory, man that saw bucks! I have no issues (or very little at least) when plunge cutting while bucking etc... Is it just the nature of the aggresive beasts or am I doing something wrong? If alot of it has to do with the chain than what would a happy compromise be??

Thanks,
Tom

 

[stikine]

I cut almost hardwood here in E. Ky, poplar, soft maple and a few pine too. Anyway I am currently running Stihl's RSF chain and I find I am having a really difficult time when I try to bore a big oak or hickory, man that saw bucks! I have no issues (or very little at least) when plunge cutting while bucking etc... Is it just the nature of the aggresive beasts or am I doing something wrong? If alot of it has to do with the chain than what would a happy compromise be??

Thanks,
Tom

Tom,
If you are not already doing so, try slightly twisting your bar tip while you are making your bore cuts. It will help control the "saw bucking"... not to mention reducing the kick back potential.

 

[slowp]

You probably already know this, but bore in with the bottom section of the tip first, then bring it around. The wiggle wobble helps, but some folks scoff at the wiggle wobble saying it means your chain is not sharp. Are we confused yet?

 

[ShaneLogs]

You probably already know this, but bore in with the bottom section of the tip first, then bring it around. The wiggle wobble helps, but some folks scoff at the wiggle wobble saying it means your chain is not sharp. Are we confused yet?

Yes we are confused, and yes that does help out quite a bit when you twist the kerf just a little bit so you are not making a straight bore cut.

 

[Rounder]

Not familiar with the chain you're using, but if it's round ground, you might want to try square. Bores nice and smooth.

 

[forestryworks]

I am currently running Stihl's RSF chain

Skip chain is always jumpy when used on bore cutting.

 

[KYLogger]

It is a full skip round ground chain. When starting my bore I angle the saw if you will to use the bottom edge of the tip, the problem seems to begin when I am back cutting and the leading (top) edge of the tip is making the cut. (If any of that makes sense) By wibble wobbling or whatever in the heck you yankees (lol no offense meant) call it are you meaning rocking the bar on its plane? In essence making the kerf wider as you go?

Tom

 

[hammerlogging]

That soudns like its just a full skip problem since it sounds like you've tried all the regular tricks. unless your drags are just too low.

 

[buzz sawyer]

It is a full skip round ground chain. When starting my bore I angle the saw if you will to use the bottom edge of the tip, the problem seems to begin when I am back cutting and the leading (top) edge of the tip is making the cut. (If any of that makes sense) By wibble wobbling or whatever in the heck you yankees (lol no offense meant) call it are you meaning rocking the bar on its plane? In essence making the kerf wider as you go?

Tom

Yeah, rocking makes the kerf wider but full skip is going to give you a problem. Since you're boring with the tip, that chain is more likely to grab since there is more spacing between cutters going around the tip. Are you starting the bore a full throttle? The harder wood will make it worse. I bored some dry locust fence posts for rail and had a real tough time with regular chain. I didn't have much problem when the posts were green.

 

[stikine]

It is a full skip round ground chain. When starting my bore I angle the saw if you will to use the bottom edge of the tip, the problem seems to begin when I am back cutting and the leading (top) edge of the tip is making the cut. (If any of that makes sense) By wibble wobbling or whatever in the heck you yankees (lol no offense meant) call it are you meaning rocking the bar on its plane? In essence making the kerf wider as you go?

Tom

Can't speak for Slowp's wibble wabble thingy but if you actually twist your bar as it's plunging it will significantly reduce the grab. As others have said, the full skip you are running does increase the grab also. Try a slight twist as you cut with the top of the bar.

 

[slowp]

Can't speak for Slowp's wibble wabble thingy but if you actually twist your bar as it's plunging it will significantly reduce the grab. As others have said, the full skip you are running does increase the grab also. Try a slight twist as you cut with the top of the bar.

That's the wiggle wobble. I have full skip on my saw. I'm not a faller. I learned the wiggle wobble at a certification redo for bucking--one has to bore in sometimes to buck. It was the GOL guy, who was a hardwoods guy, who said you shouldn't have to wiggle wobble if your chain is sharp--hence the confusion.

The wiggle wobble is wobbling the bar back and forth (side to side) while boring straight in with the nose of the bar.

He (GOL guy)showed us the way to bore in while falling a tree is to start the boring in with the LOWER part of of the tip--never the upper. This will not push back as hard and it really works with my full skip chain too. After you are in the tree you can move the saw around so you can bore straight on in. Let's make this clear, the lower part of the bar tip could also be called the bottom portion of the nose--never the upper portion.

In comparison? I went to a precert training for bucking and the instructor told us to show him how to bore into a log. The guy who was learning, with me couldn't bore in because the saw kept pushing back. He didn't try or know about the wiggle wobble. The saw had full comp chain on it. My turn came, he handed the saw to me and I did the start the bore with the lower part of the tip trick and the same saw went right in--no problems. It also works with skip chain on our softwoods. I wouldn't know a hickory if I saw one. Oaks yes, if the leave are on. :smile2:

OK, that's all I know. You might want to try it. I am not a faller.

 

[tramp bushler]

It is a full skip round ground chain. When starting my bore I angle the saw if you will to use the bottom edge of the tip, the problem seems to begin when I am back cutting and the leading (top) edge of the tip is making the cut. (If any of that makes sense) By wibble wobbling or whatever in the heck you yankees (lol no offense meant) call it are you meaning rocking the bar on its plane? In essence making the kerf wider as you go?

Tom

Back baring in the back cut with a short bar is hard on the saw components and an easy way to get sliced wide open .

I know people want real low stumps but most of the time you can fall from the other side of the tree . .
If your stumps can be high enough so the starter side isn't in the ground you are good to go

 

[tramp bushler]

Your good to go if you have a full wrap handle bar . The full skip is the best for the poplar . Not as good for the oak ect.

What diameter are the arerage tree you are or will be falling . ??

 

[Cfaller]

Try setting your depth gauges to .020 instead of .025. Also make sure your depth gauges are rounded and not flat.

 

[tramp bushler]

Sometimes a guy forgets to put all the info out there. I forgot to say , one of the best improvements I do is use about a 25 degree top angle on my cutters . It is alot smoother cutting . Lets thedepth guage do its job without fighting with the cutter . It helps bars and chains last longer and it rears back alot less . .

I don't wobble the saw left and right . I just cock it to the left a little . Twist is a better defination
As with all production oriented things . I run my chains and cutting style to the maximum that I can control all day day in day out . It will take some trial and error on your part to find what is best for you .

 

[KYLogger]

Great advice, thanks a lot. Most of the hardwoods are in the 20-30" ish range and the poplar anywhere from 20-40"ish. When I file off the depth gauges I do knock em flat, maybe thats part of it. I have found that squaring off my cutters a little more than the factory reccomended angle seemed to make an improvement......

Tom















'

 

[stikine]

When I file off the depth gauges I do knock em flat, maybe thats part of it.

'

Flat meaning you file them off altogether or you just don't round the corner off? If you file the raker completely off or too low that certainly will create the problem you are having.

 

[KYLogger]

I havent been rounding 'em off. Just taking them down as I sharpen, probably too much........I guess I need to invest in a gauge to get a feel for it, or just trial and error it.

Tom

 

[ShaneLogs]

First, the OP said in his first post he is using Stihl RSF - full skip, non safety round chisel chain. Had you not been so eager to post in every thread possible, you might have taken the time to read this.

Second, rakers (also known as depth guages) are part of the chain that needs to be there for proper cutting. They should not be removed. Safety devices like tie strap humps are a different story, but not part of this one, so we'll leave it be.

When you post just to hear yourself, it's mildly annoying. When you post bad information, it ticks me off. Don't post what you know little or nothing about.

I didn't mean the raker it self, I meant the tie strap humps.

 

[tramp bushler]

Steve ; when I was a chocker dog settin snares under a 009 Madill for Kake Tribal Loggin on Kupreanof Is. In 85 . I had a riggin slinger , Jay Sipe , who imparted one of the best pieces of advice I've ever got . No sense gettin mad for another man's logs . !

I'de say the same thing about another man's posts on an online forum .

Everyone needs to learn something at sometime . Thats one reason alot of the people who are on here , are on here .

Just sayin .