Mcclain210
ArboristSite Lurker
Picking up a 25” es light bar. I see it comes in .050 and .063. Which is the best option? I dont want to get buyers remorse after dropping 200+ dollars on a bar and 2 chains. Thanks guys.
.050.Picking up a 25” es light bar. I see it comes in .050 and .063. Which is the best option? I dont want to get buyers remorse after dropping 200+ dollars on a bar and 2 chains. Thanks guys.
Rim sprocket is on the clutch, not the bar.I really appreciate everyones input! This forum is truly awesome Im going to grab the .50. I will also check for 8 tooth. I didnt know that they came in different tooth counts on the es lightweight bars.
I really appreciate everyones input! This forum is truly awesome Im going to grab the .50. I will also check for 8 tooth. I didnt know that they came in different tooth counts on the es lightweight bars.
Not on either a 24 or 28" chain, at least not on mine. On smaller wood speed is king, imo.8 tooth is for speed. The 500i is plenty fast. 7 for torque and more useful for 2 strokes. But go ahead, they only cost about $7.xx Keep in mind, you might have to lengthen the chain in doing so. Just something to think about.
3/8" .050 on my 28" Tsumura...been great.
Go with 3/8" pitch, x .050 gauge...on a 25" guide bar, thats always a 84dl chain. Defintely go with FULL Chisel chain. This is all predicated on the clutch drum already being a 3/8".Picking up a 25” es light bar. I see it comes in .050 and .063. Which is the best option? I dont want to get buyers remorse after dropping 200+ dollars on a bar and 2 chains. Thanks guys.
Whats the issue? I have an ms171, ms201tc, ms261cm, ms462cm and ms500i now. I knew what I wanted on every other saw. I just wanted opinions if it were worth it to go to a .63 gauge bar or not. I dont get why its such an off the wall question??Normally people who buy a saw in the 500i class already have bars and chains on hand. Or at very least already have preference on chain to run.
Threads like this blow me.
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