Brown rolled up with my new 385...

[ddhlakebound]

And I just had to dance a little jig. Got everything unwrapped, slapped the 32" bar and chain on it, and took a few to read the owners manual. Next I go to adjust the oiler. Manual said "The machine is supplied from the factory set to one turn open." Below it describes settings for each bar length range, from one to four turns.

I was planning to open it to 4, with the long bar on it, but I wanted to see where the "closed" position was. Adjuster screw would spin clockwise with no stop. So I turn counterclockwise, 4-5 turns, and the adjustment screw (not actually a screw, has no threads, just a flanged tip) feels very loose. So loose that it came freely out.

And thats my problem. I tried tapping it back in place, lightly, and no joy. I couldn't identify wether there was something out of place, and I didnt want to break something trying to pop it back in.

How does the oiler adjustment screw go back in? Also, how does it adjust, not being threaded?

Hope its an easy fix.....I really want to fire this big dawg (to me anyway) up. All thoughts and ideas appreciated.

 

[ddhlakebound]

C'mon guys.....who's had the oiler adjustment screw out of their 385? Did I do something wrong, or was it not installed correctly. Or is it broken?

Help please, I really want to fire it up tomorrow and make some sawdust.

 

[04ultra]

Call the place where you got it from and ask them..Maybe they have seen it before..


Most local guy will fix it but you might be at the back of the line..


.

 

[Just Mow]

Another reason to buy from a servicing dealer :newbie:

 

[SWE#Kipp]

I checked the workshop manual, the adjuster screw is held in place by a clip check if it's still there, if so pull it out and insert the screw and then the clip !!

 

[manual]

I checked the workshop manual, the adjuster screw is held in place by a clip check if it's still there, if so pull it out and insert the screw and then the clip !!

yea I just looked at the same thing.
ddlakebound, just click on our sponsors "Husky" link and look up you IPL.
you will see what SWE#Kipp is talking about.
Nice saw you bought. Don't let the Stihlheads get you down.

 

[SawTroll]

Congrats on the saw!!! :rockn: :rockn:

...and do what KIPP and Manual said......

 

[Just Mow]

yea I just looked at the same thing.
ddlakebound, just click on our sponsors "Husky" link and look up you IPL.
you will see what SWE#Kipp is talking about.
Nice saw you bought. Don't let the Stihlheads get you down.[/QUOTE]

Doesn't look like we have to, I think the saw did that all by itself

 

[04ultra]

Don't let the Stihlheads get you down.

Why do you always have to make it a brand thing.. Seems to me I have a couple Huskys and Jreds...



.

 

[ddhlakebound]

Another reason to buy from a servicing dealer :newbie:

I buy plenty from our servicing dealer. Both our trim saws, (334's, because they don't stock 338's, and wanted almost as much as for a ms200 to order it in), all our parts for both 257's, 55, old 61, and p.o.s.141, bars, chains, dropped $300+tax there yesterday for a new oregon industrial chain grinder, wedges, mix oil, chaps,.....on and on.

If they'd even come close to matching what I can buy the 385 for online (within a hundred bucks), I'd spend the extra to give them the business.

We do most of our own work on our saws, even if that means that we have to ask questions, or learn something new to get the job done. Also, around here, 385's, 066's, and anything bigger are pretty rare, so their guy would probably have to ask someone too, as they probably don't work on three 385's per year.

I am a little bummed about having a problem right out of the box.

Looks like I'm going to have to remove the clutch to get at the clip for the oiler adjustment, and I still can't tell if the clip is even there or not.

Next question....Is the clutch threaded normally, or reverse? I'm figuring reverse, but I wanted to be sure before I take it off. Also, what size rope or cord should I use to lock the piston?

 

[ddhlakebound]

Thanks Kipp and Manual for the help, and SawTroll for the support, I appreciate it.

 

[manual]

Why do you always have to make it a brand thing.. Seems to me I have a couple Huskys and Jreds...

Guess What, your not a Stihlhead.

.

yea I just looked at the same thing.
ddlakebound, just click on our sponsors "Husky" link and look up you IPL.
you will see what SWE#Kipp is talking about.
Nice saw you bought. Don't let the Stihlheads get you down.[/QUOTE]

Doesn't look like we have to, I think the saw did that all by itself

Hmmmmmm,
Why don't you do us a favor. Equal out your signature, please move some of you saws from the 1st line and put them on the 2nd line.
thank you

 

[manual]

I buy plenty from our servicing dealer. Both our trim saws, (334's, because they don't stock 338's, and wanted almost as much as for a ms200 to order it in), all our parts for both 257's, 55, old 61, and p.o.s.141, bars, chains, dropped $300+tax there yesterday for a new oregon industrial chain grinder, wedges, mix oil, chaps,.....on and on.

If they'd even come close to matching what I can buy the 385 for online (within a hundred bucks), I'd spend the extra to give them the business.

We do most of our own work on our saws, even if that means that we have to ask questions, or learn something new to get the job done. Also, around here, 385's, 066's, and anything bigger are pretty rare, so their guy would probably have to ask someone too, as they probably don't work on three 385's per year.

I am a little bummed about having a problem right out of the box.

Looks like I'm going to have to remove the clutch to get at the clip for the oiler adjustment, and I still can't tell if the clip is even there or not.

Next question....Is the clutch threaded normally, or reverse? I'm figuring reverse, but I wanted to be sure before I take it off. Also, what size rope or cord should I use to lock the piston?

When you look at the clutch there you should see the word off-> and then an arrow. Left handed threads.
use a 3/8 nylon cord and burn the ends so you don't get any threads left in your cylinder, rotate the piston up past the exhaust then insert your cord.

 

[Grande Dog]

Howdy,
Husqvarna has a misprint in the owners manuals for the 385's. It should say clicks instead of turns. If you bought the saw from us, let me know and I'll take care of it for you. Even if you didn't buy it from us, and your seller won't take care of it, let me know.
Gregg

 

[04ultra]

Howdy,
Husqvarna has a misprint in the owners manuals for the 385's. It should say clicks instead of turns. If you bought the saw from us, let me know and I'll take care of it for you. Even if you didn't buy it from us, and your seller won't take care of it, let me know.
Gregg

Good Job Gregg....



.

 

[ddhlakebound]

Call the place where you got it from and ask them..Maybe they have seen it before..


Most local guy will fix it but you might be at the back of the line..


.

Don't like saying it, Ultra, but you're exactly right. I called them, and they've seen it before. They said its broken, gonna have to have a new oiler adjustment.

I'm finding out from everywhere at once that there's a misprint in the owners manual.....clicks are good.....turns break it. Grrrrrr.......I still don't understand what happened very well, I didn't feel anything give, or break, so I have the impression the oiler adjustment setup isn't very good.

The seller will fix it, but I don't want to wait on shipping both ways, so I'm gonna take it to the local guys. Thats gonna go well......"Hi, welcome to the back of the line." Glad I spent $300 there yesterday, and have a new pintle hitch on order.

 

[ddhlakebound]

Howdy,
Husqvarna has a misprint in the owners manuals for the 385's. It should say clicks instead of turns. If you bought the saw from us, let me know and I'll take care of it for you. Even if you didn't buy it from us, and your seller won't take care of it, let me know.
Gregg

Very gracious of you Gregg. The seller has said that if I cannot get it fixed quickly locally, they'll bring it back, fix it, and ship it back out. Good of you to offer, and if I have any problems, I'll get in contact.

 

[04ultra]

Best of luck to ya....



.

 

[ddhlakebound]

Finally got my 385 back thursday afternoon, and got to do some cutting with it friday.

Been waiting on the saw to continue a rather large oak tree, it's roughly 52" dbh, and splits into codom's about 7 feet up. The codom's have about 3' of included bark, and in January's ice storm the weight load cracked the main trunk, below the included bark. It was slowly spreading, it went from a visible hairline crack to 1.5-2mm spread. The smaller lead was aimed directly at the house, and 70-75' tall, after the ice breakage took 20' off of it.

We cleared that lead, almost 3 weeks ago when I ordered the 385. Log chained the codoms together, and went up to start chunking it out. Didn't want to rig anything out of the cracked stem, so it was all cut'n'chuck, or taglined to pull it clear. Got that stem down to about 15', where my 20" bar could do no more.

Went back yesterday to take down the bigger lead, and now have the tree down to about 8' on the small lead (1' above the trunk), 11' on the larger one (4' above the trunk), and the cracked main trunk. Made two airborne cuts with the 385, and that's really work. Two was enough.

The 385 got some work on the ground, and its a beast. No replacement for displacement is right. OMG it flys through wood. I can't wait to get a smaller bar for it, for felling and bucking the more normal size trees we usually work with.

We'll finish the tree monday, and probably end up with 4-5 cord of white oak, not including the small stuff that doesn't need split. Homeowners wanted it. Oh, and a healthy paycheck, it's by far the biggest single tree we've ever tackled. We've got 42 man hours in it so far, and we'll probably end up with 54-56 man hours in it total. Not fast, but not bad either, considering everything is being loaded by hand. Pics are on film, and I'll post some in commercial tree care and climbing when the job's done, and they're developed.