MtnHermit
ArboristSite Operative
Based on the helpful tips I received in this thread I set off on a practice trail maintenance project in a local National Forest. The "trail" consisted of a long abandoned road connecting three cabin ruins, like this:
Getting to the old road required a bushwhack through the willows like you see in the background with two stream crossings.
Some random thoughts:
This was my first cut and one of the hardest, the wood was solid and big and the closest log had a significant side bind. As I approached from below I noticed the center tree had about 10-feet of bark missing as the falling tree scraped on its way down. I expected the tree to move when I cut through, turns out it moved about 3-feet away from me, not violently but still got my attention.
Learned on this one to make two cuts at an opposite angle so that the block opens the cut as it rolls downhill.
While many of the trees were solid, this one was rotted and it cut like a hot knife through butter.
The camera battery died here so no after photo. Getting a path through these three large stacked logs had me thinking. The guide suggested I learn how to cut left-handed. One log had the potential to move back as it dropped so I cut it left handed so that I was out of the way. I did a couple more logs after this group, then started to make bad/risky decisions and decided my day was done. Carrying the saw back to the trail head I was sure it had gained twenty pounds.
Thanks to all who provided helpful tips in past threads, perhaps the photos will suggest more.
Getting to the old road required a bushwhack through the willows like you see in the background with two stream crossings.
Some random thoughts:
- I gave no blood
- Hadn't used the saw since April so I was rusty, typically only cut in winter
- Cutting top bind logs is significantly harder than firewood blocking because of having to lift the saw and cut from below
- I had several minor saw binds, as predicted, solved in various ways.
- Had an emergency hand saw, didn't use it
- Some suggested I take a peavy, while it would have no doubt have been useful, carrying yet another heavy tool was almost unthinkable in those willows
- I fashioned a strap out of seat belt webbing and fastek buckles to carry the saw from my shoulder
- The 455 always started on one pull if I set the high idle, otherwise it wouldn't start
- I purchased a plastic felling wedge, it proved useful several times.
- The trail head was at 11,000-feet so similar to my original trail project
- Running a chainsaw for three hours is much harder than a mouse for eight, duh
This was my first cut and one of the hardest, the wood was solid and big and the closest log had a significant side bind. As I approached from below I noticed the center tree had about 10-feet of bark missing as the falling tree scraped on its way down. I expected the tree to move when I cut through, turns out it moved about 3-feet away from me, not violently but still got my attention.
Learned on this one to make two cuts at an opposite angle so that the block opens the cut as it rolls downhill.
While many of the trees were solid, this one was rotted and it cut like a hot knife through butter.
The camera battery died here so no after photo. Getting a path through these three large stacked logs had me thinking. The guide suggested I learn how to cut left-handed. One log had the potential to move back as it dropped so I cut it left handed so that I was out of the way. I did a couple more logs after this group, then started to make bad/risky decisions and decided my day was done. Carrying the saw back to the trail head I was sure it had gained twenty pounds.
Thanks to all who provided helpful tips in past threads, perhaps the photos will suggest more.