Building vintage hotsaw

[Greg Carberry]

I've been working on getting some more power out of Pioneer P40. So far I've dual ported the muffler, removed choke plate. I will clean up the intake and exhaust and match the gaskets. Also installing velocity stack. Havent done anything with the ports or cylinder. Anything I can do cheaply there? Maybe a thinner base gasket for higher compression? Here is a crappy pic of the cylinder.

 

[eyolf]

Looks like there's lots of room for improvement in those transfers. Can't see what's up with the intake and exhaust ports, though.

You probably better not listen to me, though. I had a nasty reputation as a kid for being able to make 297 Sachs and 300/320/335 Rotax singles run like a raped ape...for half a snowmobile race .

 

[sawracr]

In order to do anything to the cylinder you need to know where you are, get a degree wheel and call K.D. Ken Hot Saw.

 

[Greg Carberry]

Ok is there a special degree wheel or can one you use with four- cycle cams work? Problem I see is if I decide to do anything with the ports etc. They are so very small, can't get my die grinder in there

 

[eyolf]

Any degree wheel will work. I'm certain sawracer was considering the port mapping process when he suggested the degree wheel.

This is a fairly good discussion of the process: <a href= "http://www.macdizzy.com/cyl_primer.htm"> (click here)</a>.

I

 

[sawracr]

Yes and automotive degree wheel will work fine, we use a magnet to attach it to the clutch side of the engine, a pointer can be made with wire. One needs to know port open timing, so as not to ruin the engine. Usually a good dremel tool will get you in the cylinder. Jon