Building vintage hotsaw

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Greg Carberry

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I've been working on getting some more power out of Pioneer P40. So far I've dual ported the muffler, removed choke plate. I will clean up the intake and exhaust and match the gaskets. Also installing velocity stack. Havent done anything with the ports or cylinder. Anything I can do cheaply there? Maybe a thinner base gasket for higher compression? Here is a crappy pic of the cylinder.
 
Looks like there's lots of room for improvement in those transfers. Can't see what's up with the intake and exhaust ports, though.

You probably better not listen to me, though. I had a nasty reputation as a kid for being able to make 297 Sachs and 300/320/335 Rotax singles run like a raped ape...for half a snowmobile race .:confused:
 
In order to do anything to the cylinder you need to know where you are, get a degree wheel and call K.D. Ken Hot Saw.
 
Ok is there a special degree wheel or can one you use with four- cycle cams work? Problem I see is if I decide to do anything with the ports etc. They are so very small, can't get my die grinder in there:confused:
 
Any degree wheel will work. I'm certain sawracer was considering the port mapping process when he suggested the degree wheel.

This is a fairly good discussion of the process: <a href= "http://www.macdizzy.com/cyl_primer.htm"> (click here)</a>.

I
 
Yes and automotive degree wheel will work fine, we use a magnet to attach it to the clutch side of the engine, a pointer can be made with wire. One needs to know port open timing, so as not to ruin the engine. Usually a good dremel tool will get you in the cylinder. Jon
 
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