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Want to Sell Built 066 red light worth?

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Jeppsonservices

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What would this 066 red light sell for. New Hyway pop up big bore piston and head. New torch spark plug new handle not shown in pic. New ignition coil and plug wire new fuel line, new impulse line, and ported exhaust, might be installing ceramic bearings heard they’re good but not sure if it’s worth it.
 
Not seeing any pictures. Cosmetic condition will dramatically effect the value. But, based on your description, I'd say between $300-400, at least on this forum. Maybe you can find a less informed party locally. That hyway top end is a major detractor. People on here will want to know why the original cylinder needed to be replaced, and why the cylinder wasn't cleaned up and used with a new piston. Personally, I'm not a huge 066 fan, but something with an aftermarket top end like that wouldn't be something I'd consider buying.
 
Not seeing any pictures. Cosmetic condition will dramatically effect the value. But, based on your description, I'd say between $300-400, at least on this forum. Maybe you can find a less informed party locally. That hyway top end is a major detractor. People on here will want to know why the original cylinder needed to be replaced, and why the cylinder wasn't cleaned up and used with a new piston. Personally, I'm not a huge 066 fan, but something with an aftermarket top end like that wouldn't be something I'd consider buying.

I like the 066/064 platform and I couldn’t agree more. Putting a hyway top end on an iconic saw like this just made it worth the same as a parts non running 066 with original top end. Additionally if the dough wasn’t coughed up for a new piston it seems safe to assume the lines and seals weren’t oem.


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None of it is Oem parts. The point was to get more power out of the saw. Can’t do that with stock internals. Rings and piston and head were all scored pretty badly which is why the decision was made to pour some More compression into it
 
None of it is Oem parts. The point was to get more power out of the saw. Can’t do that with stock internals. Rings and piston and head were all scored pretty badly which is why the decision was made to pour some More compression into it
Can’t do that with stock internals....
I beg to differ, these are great saw's stock ..Always use stock parts, let's see pic's of the inside of the stock cylinder ?..........
 
None of it is Oem parts. The point was to get more power out of the saw. Can’t do that with stock internals. Rings and piston and head were all scored pretty badly which is why the decision was made to pour some More compression into it

I believe it has been posted here multiple times about the power of a “big bore” aftermarket top end and a good oem non decomp top end. Every time it ends with the OEM doing better.


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None of it is Oem parts. The point was to get more power out of the saw. Can’t do that with stock internals. Rings and piston and head were all scored pretty badly which is why the decision was made to pour some More compression into it

More power is a reason to use aftermarket fuel and impulse lines? How about the coil and handle? That just doesn't make sense. Same with the "big bore". Sorry, but they're junk compared to an oem p/c, especially an early one like the red light was. I'm sorry if these aren't the answers you wanted, but the truth is, that to someone who knows what they're looking at, that's about a $200-250 saw. Like I said before though, you might find someone less educated on your local Facebook marketplace or whatever.
 
Big bore with a dome piston should give way more compression there for more power. That’s how that works. And misc parts are things that were missing or needed replaced shortly. The coils in those saws are known for being a problem. 83A17B5A-1205-4D8C-A11B-4462FD27A030.jpeg
 
Big bore with a dome piston should give way more compression there for more power. That’s how that works. And misc parts are things that were missing or needed replaced shortly. The coils in those saws are known for being a problem. View attachment 863477

Actually, that's not "how that works". There's a lot more to 2-stroke power than just compression. Port timing and shape is of huge importance. An early 066 cylinder will be way better than what you slapped on there. If aftermarket parts were easy power boosts, everyone would be doing it, don't you think?

And beyond that, there's a lot more to making a good saw than power. Like longevity and reliability. Plenty of those aftermarket kits are out of round, out of square, have bad plating, bad port beveling, etc. They won't run for hundreds of hours like an oem will.

Edited to add: you still didn't tell us why the original top end was fried? Air leak? Ate something? Was the saw diagnosed before putting a bunch of aftermarket parts on it and calling it "built"?
 
Actually, that's not "how that works". There's a lot more to 2-stroke power than just compression. Port timing and shape is of huge importance. An early 066 cylinder will be way better than what you slapped on there. If aftermarket parts were easy power boosts, everyone would be doing it, don't you think?

And beyond that, there's a lot more to making a good saw than power. Like longevity and reliability. Plenty of those aftermarket kits are out of round, out of square, have bad plating, bad port beveling, etc. They won't run for hundreds of hours like an oem will.

Edited to add: you still didn't tell us why the original top end was fried? Air leak? Ate something? Was the saw diagnosed before putting a bunch of aftermarket parts on it and calling it "built"?

I think we may need to step off... apparently this guy knows more than all of the guys here that have been building these since their debut.... lol


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This forum is ****. I asked for advice and tried explaining why I did what I did. I’m not an expert on this. You old guys are all just dicks about it
 
This forum is ****. I asked for advice and tried explaining why I did what I did. I’m not an expert on this. You old guys are all just dicks about it

Sorry you feel that way, you joined 3 days ago, have 8 posts, and are telling guys “how it works”.

Labeling it “built” was probably your first problem.


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This forum is ****. I asked for advice and tried explaining why I did what I did. I’m not an expert on this. You old guys are all just dicks about it

Again, sorry if these aren't the answers you wanted, but we are being honest. No one started being a **** until it became pretty clear that you were talking out of your a$$. This forum is actually pretty great. Arguably not the best chainsaw forum, but it's up there. Best part is that if you want to ask for help, humbly, you'll be amazed at what you find. Post in the chainsaw section that you need a used oem cylinder, and a service manual for this saw and you'll be treated very fairly. Get yourself a new meteor piston and you'll be off to the races.
 
Again, sorry if these aren't the answers you wanted, but we are being honest. No one started being a **** until it became pretty clear that you were talking out of your a$$. This forum is actually pretty great. Arguably not the best chainsaw forum, but it's up there. Best part is that if you want to ask for help, humbly, you'll be amazed at what you find. Post in the chainsaw section that you need a used oem cylinder, and a service manual for this saw and you'll be treated very fairly. Get yourself a new meteor piston and you'll be off to the races.
Everyone said oem so why meteor now?
 
Everyone said oem so why meteor now?

Meteor is known to be a close second. At the price of a 066 and what they can bring... to me it’s worth at least finding a 660 cylinder and dropping the $80 on a oem piston and used clean oem cylinder. In a pinch or on a budget saw most guys here will agree meteor is the “cheapest” way they will go.

I will admit hyway has been getting better, however every 066/660 top end in the 56mm variant I’ve seen has free porting issues.


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