Cabling/bracing a previously topped tree...

[logantree]

Need some opinions on what to do with this tree. The customer does not want to cut it down and doesn't want it topped again. She just wants me to do what needs to be done to make a little safer and keep it living as long as possible. Is cabling/bracing an option? If so, where would you install the cable? You don't want to install above where it's been topped do you? I know the best option here would be to remove it, but she's already knocked one guy out of the running for suggesting it. I've been reading through the BMP trying to figure out what the best method of cabling would be, but it looks like this will be pretty complicated.

Any opinions welcome. opcorn:

Thanks again.

 

[LTREES]

Is there any damage from wind (cracks), major decay? There doen't seem to be too much weight in the top. If there is no major defects in the main crotch area I'd just suggest to lighten any of the huge suckers, if they are that big, and clean it out just a bit. Not too much you can do with the butcher job of that size. Tell her you like to prune it and maintain it if there is any storm damage over the years. That way you can keep her as a customer for the future TD that is eventually going to happen one day.

PS. don't spike the prune.

LT...

 

[jefflovstrom]

I would stand my ground but still try to get the job and sell her on a 3 year plan to to crown reduce one third a year and maybe establish (maybe)leaders. Once the tree has been topped it becomes high maintenance tree and if removal is out of the question then a maintenance program is in their best interest. Give them a price for a three year plan to take care of the tree they do not want to remove.
Jeff

 

[logantree]

The worst decay in the tree that I saw is the large hole in the first image, on the second leader from the left. There is also some sort of crack/decay right above that hole...

So you wouldn't suggest any cabling/bracing?

Are you talking about some sort of crown restoration? I've never done one before but would love the experience. Just not really sure on where to start on a tree of that size that's been topped for so long.

 

[treeseer]

Are you talking about some sort of crown restoration? I've never done one before but would love the experience. Just not really sure on where to start on a tree of that size that's been topped for so long.

Look at ed gilman's website re restoration pruning. his general approach: remove 1/3, reduce, 1/3 and leave the best leaders alone.

Best time is midsummer, after new growth is hardened. I have work to do soon in Maiden and in Staunton and in greensboro nc so i could swing by in june and do it with you. pm'd contact.

re cabling, don't see the need. re high maintenance, yes ideal to revisit yearly for a light pruning, but every 3 may be okay.

 

[Mitchell]

decay extent

Need some opinions on what to do with this tree. The customer does not want to cut it down and doesn't want it topped again. She just wants me to do what needs to be done to make a little safer and keep it living as long as possible. Is cabling/bracing an option? If so, where would you install the cable? You don't want to install above where it's been topped do you? I know the best option here would be to remove it, but she's already knocked one guy out of the running for suggesting it. I've been reading through the BMP trying to figure out what the best method of cabling would be, but it looks like this will be pretty complicated.

Any opinions welcome. opcorn:

Thanks again.

The pruning mentioned by the others sounds good and I would suggest where possible, cleaning out the included crotch branches at the old topping spots. The tree looks to be maple, not sure what varity you get out there, [silver?]however, maple is not the best at "codit." I would explore the extent of the rot, a few of the pics suggest good colums of decay on the old "pollarded" sections. Considering due diligence, the HO may well want to have some bracing system if it is extensive.

Your tree reminds me of the tree I was in last week, war story to follow...

I initiated myself into the world of having tree fall apart under oneself!!! . This 3.5' dbh pacific willow [another very poor at codit] looked similar to yours except the rot was more evident. I suggested cutting it down as the base was no longer going to support the continually topped tree. They wanted the tree kept [and re topped for their neighbours view!]. After some compromise, I was out on one of the large lower arms pruning out a few bigger leaders when a mushy crack had me and 1/4 of the tree 15' down in a hurry. NO harm no foul.

Point being you should have [unlike myself] a clear picture of where the rot is when planning the pruning program. The program Treeseer mentioned may have to be modified if, for instance, one arm like the tree I was in is nonviable.

 

[treeseer]

I was out on one of the large lower arms pruning out a few bigger leaders when a mushy crack had me and 1/4 of the tree 15' down in a hurry. NO harm no foul.

Glad you are okay. Willows grow--and rot--so fast that replanting (with a smaller species?) sounds like the way to go there. Maybe your incident will open your clients' eyes!

I've restored several red maples, and some do codit fairly well. As always, some attention to the roots would help.