Can Any of You Homelite Genuises Explain to me What I Just Broke? 600D Problem.

[SawGecko]

Hi all, I had a whoops kind of moment when disassembling my Homelite 600D. Got it at an antique show a week ago for $40 so I'm not too concerned about having so much money tied up in it. I've been wanting to try to restore an old saw, and this is probably the best candidate for that I've run across yet. Been sitting in a barn for 30 years, and it looks the part too.

So I get to taking the thing apart. Its pretty beat, but all there. It didn't have a spark, because the points were filthy, anyway i get down to the crankshaft. I didn't really want to remove the crank but I plan to paint it so it kinda has to go. You all know the saying "If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer" and so I did. Crank comes out as expected. But there's these strange rivet things that I couldn't see didn't know to look for behind the crank counterweight, holding the bearing in. Let's just saw that those rivet things aren't holding much anything anymore.

The broken things inside the crankcase, next to the bearing counterbore. There is no bolt head, or screw slot on them at all, so I'm not entirely sure that they thread in at all. They were in a groove in the outer race of the bearing. I'm not sure how important they are, and therefore if I just made a nice box of parts. I'm leaning towards believing that those pin things were pressed in with the bearing, and they are simply insurance that the bearing doesn't move. Maybe they thought that the interference fit on the bearing might not be enough, and in 1960, Loctite 609 wasn't a thing yet. Any Ideas?

Thanks

 

[Modifiedmark]

It appears you broke the heads of those screws off that hold a washer that get inserted into the snap ring groove of the bearing.

Those are suppose to be taken out to remove the bearing.

You can heat the case up around those broken screws and try to turn them out.

 

[alexcagle]

I like the "striked through words"..lol Humorous admission of fault.

I'd leave the broken screws, and use what you already know works -(609 loctite). Unless of course you're a purist, and it bugs you that it's not original.

A person that is confident enough to admit making a mistake is a good person IMO.
It builds character, not to mention some new combo curse words!#$@!

 

[SawGecko]

It appears you broke the heads of those screws off that hold a washer that get inserted into the snap ring groove of the bearing.

Those are suppose to be taken out to remove the bearing.

You can heat the case up around those broken screws and try to turn them out.

Unfortunately, there is noting to turn the screw out with. No spline or hex head. No screwdriver slot. I think they are pressed in. I really cant get anything on them. And they're rock hard. Tool steel drills just skate. The one on the right looks like a flat slot, but it's just where it broke. They overlapped the bearing, so they had to go in at the same time as the bearing.

 

[Modifiedmark]

You think they are pressed in?

I just love it when someone comes on asking questions about something they don't have a clue then when answered they then dismiss what they have been told and now know all about it.

Good luck with your project

 

[SawGecko]

You think they are pressed in?

I just love it when someone comes on asking questions about something they don't have a clue then when answered they then dismiss what they have been told and now know all about it.

Good luck with your project

I by no means was dismissing you at all. My question effectively was if anyone knew exactly the purpose of those fasteners, and or how to remove them. Obviously they hold the bearing in, but there is no way to get a tool on them, at least as far as I can tell. Just trying to find someone who had run into this before, and if there was any special tool or technique used in removing them. I apologize if I came across that way, just trying to clarify the issue.

 

[67L36Driver]

Homelite shrunk fit the bearing and used a tab washer in the bearing snap ring groove.
Kind of like wearing a belt and suspenders.

Getting the remainder of the screws out is tricky at best.

 

[SawGecko]

Homelite shrunk fit the bearing and used a tab washer in the bearing snap ring groove.
Kind of like wearing a belt and suspenders.

Getting the remainder of the screws out is tricky at best.

So they are indeed screws? Well I'm about to eat some crow...

 

[CJH]

From the IPL on Leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com (last one on the list - zip 600d), it's a slotted head screw. As stated half of the head snapped off. Item #15, Part #19238-A.

Extraction will be difficult in that spot. A cobalt drill will go through it, but an ez-out for a small screw like that is very fragile. A left hand cobalt drill bit bit may get it.

Loctite it and save the hassle as stated.

http://www.leonschainsawpartsandrep...2537/homelite_zip_600d_chainsaw_ipl_23794.pdf

http://oldmowerparts.com/Homelite-19238A-bearing-retaining-screw-192383-19238-3-P5511183.aspx

 

[RandyMac]

The Grandaddy of the XL925.

 

[chainsawlady]

Hi all, I had a whoops kind of moment when disassembling my Homelite 600D. Got it at an antique show a week ago for $40 so I'm not too concerned about having so much money tied up in it. I've been wanting to try to restore an old saw, and this is probably the best candidate for that I've run across yet. Been sitting in a barn for 30 years, and it looks the part too.

So I get to taking the thing apart. Its pretty beat, but all there. It didn't have a spark, because the points were filthy, anyway i get down to the crankshaft. I didn't really want to remove the crank but I plan to paint it so it kinda has to go. You all know the saying "If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer" and so I did. Crank comes out as expected. But there's these strange rivet things that I couldn't see didn't know to look for behind the crank counterweight, holding the bearing in. Let's just saw that those rivet things aren't holding much anything anymore.

The broken things inside the crankcase, next to the bearing counterbore. There is no bolt head, or screw slot on them at all, so I'm not entirely sure that they thread in at all. They were in a groove in the outer race of the bearing. I'm not sure how important they are, and therefore if I just made a nice box of parts. I'm leaning towards believing that those pin things were pressed in with the bearing, and they are simply insurance that the bearing doesn't move. Maybe they thought that the interference fit on the bearing might not be enough, and in 1960, Loctite 609 wasn't a thing yet. Any Ideas?

Thanks

Saw Gecko
If no one has explained how to work on this 600, IO will try. I removed a lot them and it is very simple. When you got down to the crankcase and crankshaft, you should have removed the two screws. A washer under the screw fits into a slot on the bearing. Then remove the crankshaft from the case and the bearing stays with the crankshaft. There is a ring on the clutch side of bearing is removed. Then the bearing can be removed from crankshaft. I don't see how you got the crankshaft out without tearing up more of the crankcase.
chainsawlady

 

[SawGecko]

From the IPL on Leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com (last one on the list - zip 600d), it's a slotted head screw. As stated half of the head snapped off. Item #15, Part #19238-A.

Extraction will be difficult in that spot. A cobalt drill will go through it, but an ez-out for a small screw like that is very fragile. A left hand cobalt drill bit bit may get it.

Loctite it and save the hassle as stated.

http://www.leonschainsawpartsandrep...2537/homelite_zip_600d_chainsaw_ipl_23794.pdf

http://oldmowerparts.com/Homelite-19238A-bearing-retaining-screw-192383-19238-3-P5511183.aspx

I do have a couple solid carbide drills and extractors but I don't know that it's worth the risk of runining the case.

I'll just chip out the loose fragments and run it like I stole it.

 

[SawGecko]

Saw Gecko
If no one has explained how to work on this 600, IO will try. I removed a lot them and it is very simple. When you got down to the crankcase and crankshaft, you should have removed the two screws. A washer under the screw fits into a slot on the bearing. Then remove the crankshaft from the case and the bearing stays with the crankshaft. There is a ring on the clutch side of bearing is removed. Then the bearing can be removed from crankshaft. I don't see how you got the crankshaft out without tearing up more of the crankcase.
chainsawlady

I suppose I got lucky that those screws were as brittle as they are.

 

[OnlyHomelites]

You are lucky...but sometimes it's better to be lucky than good! I just posted a slightly older version of the 600D IPL that may help you with your project: http://www.leonschainsawpartsandrep...9792537/homelite_600d_ipl__8-61__23470-a_.pdf

 

[SawGecko]

You are lucky...but sometimes it's better to be lucky than good! I just posted a slightly older version of the 600D IPL that may help you with your project: http://www.leonschainsawpartsandrep...9792537/homelite_600d_ipl__8-61__23470-a_.pdf

Really appreciate it!

 

[cbfarmall]

I would think another case shouldn't be that hard to find. Those screws definitely come out very hard--Homelite didn't want them coming loose inside the motor. I've had to heat the hell out them and they still barely wind out. Use your best screwdriver that completely fits the slot.

Anyway, water under the bridge. The crank survived after beating the hell out of it like that?

Chris B.

 

[SawGecko]

I would think another case shouldn't be that hard to find. Those screws definitely come out very hard--Homelite didn't want them coming loose inside the motor. I've had to heat the hell out them and they still barely wind out. Use your best screwdriver that completely fits the slot.

Anyway, water under the bridge. The crank survived after beating the hell out of it like that?

Chris B.

It seems fine. I'll chuck it up and spin it around before I put it together to be sure. In all seriousness, I really didn't hit it that hard. The referenced bigger hammer was only a 2lb brass hammer. One handed, and I'm not abnormally strong. All that saved my bacon was how hard, and subsequently brittle those screws are