Can anyone recommend me some solid pulley blocks please? Or school me on em? Tks.

[KiwiBro]

Thou shall not use 4" blocks any longer.

My tractor winch maxes-out about 4t, if not before then, so I guess about 8t WLL would be ample. But I'll be damned if I want to kink any more cable like I did last Summer when the turn snags and all that weight is rolling around 2" radius corners.

I figure on needing two of a min 8" diameter sheaves and while the biggest cable I can see me using at this stage is 1/2", perhaps I should get something that can handle 3/4" as well) but perhaps there are other features to get and things to avoid that only experienced people would know?

Any help appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[2dogs]

Sheave diameter is only one part of the equation when it comes blocks. The groove in the sheave is designed for a certain diameter wire rope, though often times that groove will handle a size up or down from the ideal diameter. Going from your current block to say a 10" block may sound like a great idea but if the wire rope is just riding in the bottom of the sheave it will flatten out which causes it to be weaker in time. A block won't cause your rope to kink but the small diameter can cause loops to form which are a pain in the tail when the system is slack.

I have 4, 6, 8, and 10" Skookum blocks and 4 and 6" McKissick blocks. I bought all but the 6" Skookum on ebay, the 6" skookum came from a local Craig's list ad. My blocks are sized to the rope I am using all the way to 3/4". Good blocks are very expensive but don't have much resale value.

 

[KiwiBro]

Sheave diameter is only one part of the equation when it comes blocks. The groove in the sheave is designed for a certain diameter wire rope, though often times that groove will handle a size up or down from the ideal diameter. Going from your current block to say a 10" block may sound like a great idea but if the wire rope is just riding in the bottom of the sheave it will flatten out which causes it to be weaker in time. A block won't cause your rope to kink but the small diameter can cause loops to form which are a pain in the tail when the system is slack.

I have 4, 6, 8, and 10" Skookum blocks and 4 and 6" McKissick blocks. I bought all but the 6" Skookum on ebay, the 6" skookum came from a local Craig's list ad. My blocks are sized to the rope I am using all the way to 3/4". Good blocks are very expensive but don't have much resale value.

Thank you.
Spied a few blocks on ebay, although some are way out of my budget.
Should I be weary of those using a bushing instead of bearings?

 

[2dogs]

Thank you.
Spied a few blocks on ebay, although some are way out of my budget.
Should I be weary of those using a bushing instead of bearings?

Bushed sheaves are no problem unless you have high speed rigging. Not likely with a tractor,eh? A 10" A-10 Skookum runs about $1,000.00. Both of mine cost me $75.00.

 

[KiwiBro]

I'll let you sell me yours and make $25 each on the deal, if you like.

 

[Humptulips]

Sheave diameter is only one part of the equation when it comes blocks. The groove in the sheave is designed for a certain diameter wire rope, though often times that groove will handle a size up or down from the ideal diameter. Going from your current block to say a 10" block may sound like a great idea but if the wire rope is just riding in the bottom of the sheave it will flatten out which causes it to be weaker in time. A block won't cause your rope to kink but the small diameter can cause loops to form which are a pain in the tail when the system is slack.

I have 4, 6, 8, and 10" Skookum blocks and 4 and 6" McKissick blocks. I bought all but the 6" Skookum on ebay, the 6" skookum came from a local Craig's list ad. My blocks are sized to the rope I am using all the way to 3/4". Good blocks are very expensive but don't have much resale value.

Kind of scratcing my head with your comment about kinks. Those loops that form are kinks. You can definetly kink line by running it in to small of a sheave. The more bite on the sheave the more apt to kink the line.

Other then that I'm glad you are happy with those skookum blocks. They are heavy suckers. I always preferred ropemasters but it seemed youngs were the most common variety found. Youngs were a little cheaper.
A joke comes to mind about Young 1369s but it is x-rated so I'll keep it to myself.

 

[northmanlogging]

I run 1/2 cable on the gypo yarder with a set of 10" blocks in the tree one bushed Mallory and a cheapo Chines with bearings, so far so good as far as kinks go... biggest reason for kinks and loops is getting the lines twisted and pulling hard anyway, have been running 4" and 6" blocks for years without a problem, unless the lines get spun around itself. This happened when I let someone barrow my cable.

Note with the cheapo import blocks check the center bolt often they tend to back out if not careful.

Also having the line not feed around the winch drum consistently will cause kinks. bird nests are bad

 

[KiwiBro]

I run 1/2 cable on the gypo yarder with a set of 10" blocks in the tree one bushed Mallory and a cheapo Chines with bearings, so far so good as far as kinks go... biggest reason for kinks and loops is getting the lines twisted and pulling hard anyway, have been running 4" and 6" blocks for years without a problem, unless the lines get spun around itself. This happened when I let someone barrow my cable.

Note with the cheapo import blocks check the center bolt often they tend to back out if not careful.

Also having the line not feed around the winch drum consistently will cause kinks. bird nests are bad

Yeah, and kinks will cause birds nests. It's a vicious circle. No serious chance of twisted lines in this retarded excuse for a highlead set-up I've got going on here. But max 4 x 4= 8t of load around a slightly less than 4" sheave isn't doing the line any favours. Also, I note the walls on the sheaves I've been using are pretty useless and wouldn't really help the line mantain a decent shape under load, so a change before I wreck the line is in order.

There are some "cheap" 5" or 6" snatch blocks online but the details on them are next to useless so I can't really get a good idea what the sheave profile is like, etc, so I can't buy 'em. I'm needing at least two and I've actually got in mind another job later on if I get around to it this Summer that I'm trying to work out a cunning way (and if it's worth the risk to gear) of using my piddly tractor to pull 6t butt logs out of a gulley, so may need a few more blocks for that. But a guy could go broke just setting himself up with all this gear. If only I could find such a chap so I can buy the gear off him cheap ;-)

 

[northmanlogging]

Swap meets, e-bay, and junk/antique stores, That's where I found the Mallory, and a couple of the 6" blocks. Skookum is the bees knees, but they want your first born, and the keys to your house. Any block that is cast steel/iron that is in good condition should do ya, don't know if I would trust em for overhead use but they should be good for there rated tonnage. The stamped steel and aluminium ones don't seem to last very long.

 

[KiwiBro]

Thanks. Will keep looking around. The green Machine has a heap, if I wanted to buy 20 at a time without physical inspection. Don't suppose I can interest anyone here in buying a few pallets of Skookums and flicking me a couple of OK ones?
Search Results - Government Liquidation

 

[Motorsen]

London blocks

You should look for a London type block. Large sheave diameter and a cast iron sheave with a wire groove. They are used extensively in the maritime world (where you handle high loads with wire rope).
The only commonly available link found by Google was: London Pattern Fibre Rope Blocks :: Rigging Blocks :: Ansell Jones - World leaders in high quality lifting and mooring equipment
But by following the link you will get the picture. Good rope and wire care are vital to a healthy business.

Motorsen

 

[KiwiBro]

Thank you.

 

[StihlKiwi]

Track down someone local who runs a cable crew and have a chat to them about what to buy locally, they might even have some spare gear for sale.

6 ton logs you reckon? Are they old man pines or natives? I plan on having a look around up north now that I'm back on the right island. I'll give you a shout when I do, I'd be interested to see that

 

[KiwiBro]

6 ton logs you reckon?

Because this is a USA site, I'm gonna 'plead the 5th'. I've only shown one guy through that stand and he was an incoherent, jabbering mess before we even got 1/2 way through. When/if I get 'em over and out without killing myself, I promise to show you the stumps. And you are welcome to stop in for a cold one or three if you are in the Far North. Be warned though, I'm felling by the seat of my pants with next to no experience and even less training. So this walking talking real life OSH cautionary tale will have a list of questions to ask a pro.

Spoke with someone today who might be able to help with the blocks and as it happens, I've also chased down a Chinese brand but can't yet find anyone here willing to test them for me (probably because the only people I've asked are local manufacturers with their own testing gear and they are understandably not keen to have anything to do with "cheap Chinese crap"). But I think I'll find someone to test them eventually, even if it means destroying a few to see what they can handle and how consistent their fail points are. I mean if one "8T WLL" block fails at 14T and the next one fails at 7.8T and the next at 11T, I'm not sure I want to be taking any risks with 'em myself or will have to consider greater safety margins to be sure. But crikey they are cheap. Hopefully the testing won't cost too much or I'm no better off than just buying something people say I can trust.

 

[mile9socounty]

Note with the cheapo import blocks check the center bolt often they tend to back out if not careful.

Yep, happened to my 4" block this weekend when I was topping and dropping a doug fir this weekend. But hey, the block was free. Found it hanging about 40ft in a tree on a job site we did last spring. Couldnt get the chain down, the tree started growing around it. So my skinny mass shimmied up the tree and got the block.

 

[KiwiBro]

Buying some Chinese 6" blocks and have found someone local to test one. It's just a proof of WLL test, not a destruction test, because the latter costs 4x more and the WLL test will take it to twice the WLL anyway which will be fine by me if it handles that.

If the quality looks dicey when I get them, I won't even bother with the test and will chalk it up to the cost of being both a cheapskate and naturally curious.

Will post back with test results and pictures if anyone wants to see how these blocks do.

Thanks.

 

[lfnh]

Curious about how the 2x WLL test turns out.
Is this a single test or even better 2 or 3 back to back tests (for confidence) ?

 

[KiwiBro]

Curious about how the 2x WLL test turns out.
Is this a single test or even better 2 or 3 back to back tests (for confidence) ?

Good point. I think they inspect after the test, looking for any signs and deformation, etc before they will stamp or tag it as passed, but having not done this before I can't say for sure.

 

[KiwiBro]

Blocks have been delivered but I haven't had time to get 'em tested. hopefully this week.

Early impressions:

1. should handle the 2xWLL test OK (if looks aren't deceiving to this untrained eye).
2. quality is all over the map - the galv ones have holes in the galv'ing and rust in places, each of the three 6" sheaves seem to have slightly different profiles.
3. main nut on the central pin isn't secured well and could do with a split pin or some other arrangement for confidence over time. I guess it should be checked before being used but just seems a bit of a flaky arrangement.

View attachment 271742View attachment 271743View attachment 271744

 

[northmanlogging]

to insure that the bolt doesn't back out on ya you could plop a little weld across the nut and bolt, just a spot to keep it from turning, back it off about a 1/4 turn to the sides move freely, helps with pinning that shackle back together...

That little bolt on the bottom will break or fall out, most of mine have, one of em is still kinda new...

a little rust is no big deal just soak it in diesel or better yet grease and it will never get any further...