Can handled ascenders plus footstraps be useful with the Dynamic DdRT?

[TreeandLand]

So far a lot of my climbing has been for take-downs, but I want to learn how to be gentle on trees (no spurs) without being too exhausted to work when I get high in the tree.
I considered a foot ascender, but that would require a ground man to maintane tension on the tail of the line in order to advance it , right? My thought is that with a handled ascender I could attach it above or below the Blake's hitch, stand up on the strap, andvance the hitch then the ascender and repeat. Any advice on this?

 

[ForTheArborist]

I tried this the other day. Shot the rope over, and tied the end to the trunk. With the other side of the rope I hooked up to because it is tout with the trunk/anchor.

I strapped my harness to the top handled ascender. I clipped my step to the bottom handled ascender. I then stood on the step which is a piece of bamboo with a rope that goes through it and connects at the top a foot and a 1/2 from the stick. Both feet can easily fit in it. As I'm stood up, I pushed up the top ascender as far as possible. I leaned back on the top ascender until my weight was on it, and then I slid up the bottom ascender to bring up my step at right about harness height. Then I pulled my self by the rope and handle on the top ascender to a standing position in the step. From there I slid up the top ascender, hung by it, and upped the step, stood on it.....

I can't see any other system that is as energy efficient anywhere at all.

 

[TreeandLand]

thanks

FortheAction ....That sounds like a good method. I think you were using the single rope technique (SRT) by the way you describe it. I'll be getting some ascenders soon- I think CMI expedition.

 

[md_tree_dood]

When using a foot ascender, the weight of the rope will pull it through the ascender. You have to body thrust or "foot lock" up about 10 feet, then clip it on and it will work just fine. Yes a handled ascender with a foot strap will work, but thats why foot ascenders were invented, they minimize gear and make it more compact and easy.

 

[RacerX]

You can use a foot ascender (I use a Petzl Pantin) with the basic DdRT setup on the free end of the rope. The one Caveat is that for every two feet of rope you push down you'll only ascend one foot upwards since the rope is doubled.

 

[TreeW?rx]

I have the CMI foot ascender. Previously I had been footlocking the free end of the rope. You can pull the free end up under your foot and grab just below the hitch, step up. That will get you up the first 10' then the weight of the rope will take care of the slack.

 

[TreEmergencyB]

dude.....search DLRW on youtube....you will be amazed

here actully

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-_GUggGMmM

 

[squad143]

TreEmergencyB,

I was just searching for the same YouTube video to post it for TreeandLand.

Its a great system.

 

[oldirty]

FortheAction ....That sounds like a good method. I think you were using the single rope technique (SRT) by the way you describe it. I'll be getting some ascenders soon- I think CMI expedition.

treeandland.

do not even read this guys posts. this is his first week in a tree. i repeat take what he has to say with a grain of salt. i big fat cube of salt.

that foot ascender does take a little bit of rope weight to actually get it going perfect but it is well worth the loot. a pantin over the cmi has been the general consensus for the climb. have a little search around in the archives for all kinds of climbing techniques. what kind of rig you on now?

pantin and a handle ascender is a dynamite combo for rope climbing.

 

[ForTheArborist]

treeandland.

do not even read this guys posts.

:spam:

How do the foot ascenders feel on the ankes and feet? By the way they look, they appear as though they would strain them.

I like that system in the video with the little sinchy string that draws up the one foot ascender. All of that seems unecessary though for any climb under 100 ft. I'm sure if it were hikes up the Red Woods or something, those would be the saviors.

 

[lego1970]

As mentioned do not listen to FortheAction. Nothing he said in the last post was bad, but give him a chance and he will tell you huge lies that will get you killed. You should read his "tie three trees together and drop them at the same time" post. The guy is a nutjob.

 

[ForTheArborist]

As mentioned do not listen to FortheAction. Nothing he said in the last post was bad, but give him a chance and he will tell you huge lies that will get you killed. You should read his "tie three trees together and drop them at the same time" post. The guy is a nutjob.

What? I'm appalled. :jawdrop:

I've got an idea. We'll let me do the self-representation of myself, and nobody will have to work so hard.

I'm not here to work, so I'm not going to keep tending to the name games like I've done with magnificence thus far. :sword:

Lego, you do get wrong from time to time, soo...

 

[Tree Pig]

So far a lot of my climbing has been for take-downs, but I want to learn how to be gentle on trees (no spurs) without being too exhausted to work when I get high in the tree.
I considered a foot ascender, but that would require a ground man to maintane tension on the tail of the line in order to advance it , right? My thought is that with a handled ascender I could attach it above or below the Blake's hitch, stand up on the strap, andvance the hitch then the ascender and repeat. Any advice on this?

I tried this the other day. Shot the rope over, and tied the end to the trunk. With the other side of the rope I hooked up to because it is tout with the trunk/anchor.

I strapped my harness to the top handled ascender. I clipped my step to the bottom handled ascender. I then stood on the step which is a piece of bamboo with a rope that goes through it and connects at the top a foot and a 1/2 from the stick. Both feet can easily fit in it. As I'm stood up, I pushed up the top ascender as far as possible. I leaned back on the top ascender until my weight was on it, and then I slid up the bottom ascender to bring up my step at right about harness height. Then I pulled my self by the rope and handle on the top ascender to a standing position in the step. From there I slid up the top ascender, hung by it, and upped the step, stood on it.....

I can't see any other system that is as energy efficient anywhere at all.

LOL hey Fortheaction you really should learn the difference between SRT Ddrt before you offer your opinion... Actually you should learn a little more before you climb anything at all.

 

[ForTheArborist]

LOL hey Fortheaction you really should learn the difference between SRT Ddrt before you offer your opinion... Actually you should learn a little more before you climb anything at all.

I'm reading the book of wisdom! I'm asking for advise! I'm practicing the techniques. I only redeemed my experience at entertainment value, but this was in no way near the honorable lessons ones like yourself could endow on a fellow climber.

No messin' around on AS I tell ya, boy, because AS is :jawdrop:. Mark my words about that, oh but especially else's.

Hey anybody, while it's on my mind, how do I put a little something at the bottom of every post I put up here. I want to put a SPAM icon there as a disclaimer to my antitidotes. It would simplify what I mean when I post what I mean. Know what I mean? When I finish this climber's companion, I'll take it down, and I'll come at this with some leverage.

 

[TreeandLand]

Ascenders and split tails

Thanks for all the advice you guys. I'm looking forward to trying some new climbing techniques.
What length split tail do you people use when you're climbing in the static DdRT? I'm planning on giving this a try as well. When the length of a split tail prusic loop is given in a catalog like Sherrill Tree, does it refer to the length of the loop, or the length of the rope before it is looped?

 

[Plasmech]

Thanks for all the advice you guys. I'm looking forward to trying some new climbing techniques.
What length split tail do you people use when you're climbing in the static DdRT? I'm planning on giving this a try as well. When the length of a split tail prusic loop is given in a catalog like Sherrill Tree, does it refer to the length of the loop, or the length of the rope before it is looped?

pre-made split-tails are usually around 30" long.

 

[davej]

I tried this the other day. Shot the rope over, and tied the end to the trunk. With the other side of the rope I hooked up to because it is tout with the trunk/anchor.

This is SRT. It is considered an advanced technique and is much more dangerous than doubled-rope. Since you are essentially a beginning climber you are not going to get many encouraging remarks from the expert climbers here.