Can I run .063 or .050 gauge on a MS361?

[sdnomad]

Can I run .063 or .050 gauge on a MS361? This is probably a stupid question but would I need to switch the sprocket to match either gauge? I know I would need the right gauge bar.

 

[Trigger-Time]

Can I run .063 or .050 gauge on a MS361? This is probably a stupid question but would I need to switch the sprocket to match either gauge? I know I would need the right gauge bar.

Just the Bar and Chain.

 

[wanderer]

We run .063 on our 361. Cuts just fine.

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Sprockets accomdate all three gauges......... .050, .058 &. 063!!!

 

[2000ssm6]

Yup match bar and chain for gauges. There should be a 3/8 or maybe a .325 rim on it. I have only seen 3/8 on the 361s. happy sawing

 

[Trigger-Time]

Yup match bar and chain for gauges. There should be a 3/8 or maybe a .325 rim on it. I have only seen 3/8 on the 361s. happy sawing

Just for fun, I put Stihl RSC .325 9T 18" BC on mine........it's pretty salty
in Oak and screams through soft wood (eastern red ceder)

If you try the .325 9T, the chain needs one more driver to fit

Around here 361 and bigger saws are set-up at the dealer with .063 BC

 

[lcso10]

Here in my neck of the woods all our 361's come with 3/8 .050 gauge chain. I hardly sell .063 gauge but have it if the customer wants it.

 

[Austin1]

Here in my neck of the woods all our 361's come with 3/8 .050 gauge chain. I hardly sell .063 gauge but have it if the customer wants it.

This brings back a recent post about bar standardization, for me it seams all Stihls 50cc and bigger run .063 I don't have any personal preference and could care less what gauge the chain is! But it seams such a local thing.But any rim or sprocket does not care what gauge it is as long as the bar matches.And by that I mean 3/8 is 3/8 any gauge
.404 same or .325 or 3/8 lp. Gauge does not matter as to what rim or sprocket you run

 

[SawTroll]

Just for fun, I put Stihl RSC .325 9T 18" BC on mine........it's pretty salty
in Oak and screams through soft wood (eastern red ceder)

If you try the .325 9T, the chain needs one more driver to fit

Around here 361 and bigger saws are set-up at the dealer with .063 BC

Just will add that 7 and 8-pin .325 are not made in the spline size that the the 361 comes with, so 9-pin is the only standard option.

I can imagine that chip clearance at some point becomes a problem with .325, but have no idea where that point is.........

 

[wood4heat]

I am completely new to this but eager to learn, I have read a few posts about chain pitch but have no idea what any of it means. I assume it requires more power to run a larger pitch chain and would cut faster but I am just guessing. Can anyone enlighten me as to the benefits/drawbacks of using a larger pitch?

 

[bcorradi]

Just will add that 7 and 8-pin .325 are not made in the spline size that the the 361 comes with, so 9-pin is the only standard option.

I can imagine that chip clearance at some point becomes a problem with .325, but have no idea where that point is.........

Yes that is true. In more general terms, you cannot get anything less than a 9t .325 for any stihl outfitted with a large spline sprocket.

 

[Trigger-Time]

Just will add that 7 and 8-pin .325 are not made in the spline size that the the 361 comes with, so 9-pin is the only standard option.

I can imagine that chip clearance at some point becomes a problem with .325, but have no idea where that point is.........

Yes that is true. In more general terms, you cannot get anything less than a 9t .325 for any stihl outfitted with a large spline sprocket.

I have not noticed any chip clearance problems with the 18" .325 BC

The 9T .325 will be about the same chain speed as the 8T .375,
but a few more cutters in the wood. IMO .325 don't seem as grabby
when cutting sprouts and small dia limbs. Thinking the 361 will wear
.325 from now on................may change my mind though

 

[SawTroll]

I have not noticed any chip clearance problems with the 18" .325 BC

The 9T .325 will be about the same chain speed as the 8T .375,
but a few more cutters in the wood. IMO .325 don't seem as gabby
when cutting sprouts and small dia limbs. Thinking the 361 will wear
.325 from now on................may change my mind though

I believe West Texas has extensive experience with both options - we need him to join in here......:greenchainsaw:

....but I have never had any "grabbieness" issues with 36RSC or RM in my wood, with either 7 or 8-pin, and I like 3/8" for the ease of sharpening.......

 

[Trigger-Time]

SawTroll...........But I'm a odd ball, I also run nothing but 3/8 PICCO
on my 260.

 

[SawTroll]

SawTroll...........But I'm a odd ball, I also run nothing but 3/8 PICCO
on my 260.

That surely is odd-ball - I wouldn't even want it on my 339xp....

..but it is pretty usual on the MS660 here - the "Logosol" version....

 

[Trigger-Time]

SawTroll...........But I'm a odd ball, I also run nothing but 3/8 PICCO
on my 260.

That surely is odd-ball - I wouldn't even want it on my 339xp....

..but it is pretty usual on the MS660 here - the "Logosol" version....

Most of the time 16 BC 7T Picco, cutting 6" dia and smaller (thinning)
8T Picco.......I bought 2 NOS Stihl 20" Picco bars....yes my 361,440,460
064 and 660 will do it faster but 260 pulls the 20" Picco BC just fine with
a 7T in hardwood (Oak)............Odd indeed :help:

 

[rahtreelimbs]

SawTroll...........But I'm a odd ball, I also run nothing but 3/8 PICCO
on my 260.

Got one better..............Echo CS-670.........24"bar......... .325 full-skip..........9 pin gear!!!

 

[West Texas]

Both of my 361's came with a 3/8 x 7 drive sprocket and a 3/8 x .063 bar and chain. That's an odd ball bar and chain for me; so I reconfigured them as follows:

3/8 x 7 sprocket with a 20" 3/8 x .050 bar and chain for felling.

9T sprocket with a 18" .325 x .063 bar and chain for limbing. And as was noted in a post above, you will have to add extra links to the chain for it to fit this setup.

The 3/8 x 8 sprocket will give you the same rpms as a 9T sprocket.

So after lots of experimenting with these various setups, I finally converted 'all' my saws to 3/8 x .050 bar and chains.

Now I don't have a mish mash of chains, etc. when I go to the woods. No matter what saw or what set up I have now, I just take along extra 18" and 20" chains. Plus, I only "touch up" chains in the field; if I hit something serious, it gets replaced immediately and repaired when I get back to the shop. When I'm in the woods, I prefer to 'cut wood' rather than work on saws and chains. opcorn:

 

[SawTroll]

Both of my 361's came with a 3/8 x 7 drive sprocket and a 3/8 x .063 bar and chain. That's an odd ball bar and chain for me; so I reconfigured them as follows:

3/8 x 7 sprocket with a 20" 3/8 x .050 bar and chain for felling.

9T sprocket with a 18" .325 x .063 bar and chain for limbing. And as was noted in a post above, you will have to add extra links to the chain for it to fit this setup.

The 3/8 x 8 sprocket will give you the same rpms as a 9T sprocket.

So after lots of experimenting with these various setups, I finally converted 'all' my saws to 3/8 x .050 bar and chains.

Now I don't have a mish mash of chains, etc. when I go to the woods. No matter what saw or what set up I have now, I just take along extra 18" and 20" chains. Plus, I only "touch up" chains in the field; if I hit something serious, it gets replaced immediately and repaired when I get back to the shop. When I'm in the woods, I prefer to 'cut wood' rather than work on saws and chains. opcorn:

I believe you did the right thing.......:biggrinbounce2: