Can't start my 395

[curdy]

OK, not too long ago I posted about an issue with the rotor and the rope not retracting. I got that problem fixed, but had not had the time since getting it fixed to mill anything (I hadn't tried to start it.)

Last week I was getting geared up to get some done and couldn't get the saw running. Fresh fuel, full choke and the decompression valve in and couldn't get it to pop. Pulled the spark plug to let it dry out and tried again...nothing. Pulled the plug again and check for a spark...got a spark. Tried again, no pop.

The next day I tried again and did finally get a very small pop...just enough to push the valve back out. Still couldn't get it started.

I can see fuel on the outside of the cylinder and under the valve button. I would think that's from flooding from not starting after so many pulls...but I think that's happening after only a couple of pulls.

Last time I used the saw it was running great.

Never had a problem like this...please help! Thanks!

 

[spacemule]

OK, not too long ago I posted about an issue with the rotor and the rope not retracting. I got that problem fixed, but had not had the time since getting it fixed to mill anything (I hadn't tried to start it.)

Last week I was getting geared up to get some done and couldn't get the saw running. Fresh fuel, full choke and the decompression valve in and couldn't get it to pop. Pulled the spark plug to let it dry out and tried again...nothing. Pulled the plug again and check for a spark...got a spark. Tried again, no pop.

The next day I tried again and did finally get a very small pop...just enough to push the valve back out. Still couldn't get it started.

I can see fuel on the outside of the cylinder and under the valve button. I would think that's from flooding from not starting after so many pulls...but I think that's happening after only a couple of pulls.

Last time I used the saw it was running great.

Never had a problem like this...please help! Thanks!

Try pulling your choke out and then pushing it back in. This will engage the high idle but will not choke the saw. That should give you the best chance of starting if it is flooding out.

 

[thomas72]

I would check your gas for contaminates like water then move to replacing the spark plug as it could be filed. Then I would adjust the carb to a standard setting; I am not certain for that saw but the older ones where turn in a half for low and a turn for high. Then fine tune once running. If that does not work take a compression test to see what your top end is as it could have low compression. You also may have to rebuild your carb as well. Just make a check list and make sure everything is as it should be and it should run.

 

[SawTroll]

Try pulling your choke out and then pushing it back in. This will engage the high idle but will not choke the saw. That should give you the best chance of starting if it is flooding out.

Try just 3-4 pulls before the choke is pulled in, and push it in earlier on the slightest sign that something is happening - don't wait for the decomp valve to tell you.

At least this works on my (smaller) saws, never used a 395........


It may also help to not use the decomp valve.:greenchainsaw:

 

[THALL10326]

OK, not too long ago I posted about an issue with the rotor and the rope not retracting. I got that problem fixed, but had not had the time since getting it fixed to mill anything (I hadn't tried to start it.)

Last week I was getting geared up to get some done and couldn't get the saw running. Fresh fuel, full choke and the decompression valve in and couldn't get it to pop. Pulled the spark plug to let it dry out and tried again...nothing. Pulled the plug again and check for a spark...got a spark. Tried again, no pop.

The next day I tried again and did finally get a very small pop...just enough to push the valve back out. Still couldn't get it started.

I can see fuel on the outside of the cylinder and under the valve button. I would think that's from flooding from not starting after so many pulls...but I think that's happening after only a couple of pulls.

Last time I used the saw it was running great.

Never had a problem like this...please help! Thanks!

If you got plenty of fire and the right amount of fuel going in that saw should start if everything is in good conditiion. Two things to remember, checking spark by laying the tip of the plug againist metal is not a valid spark test. Even though it may show a spark that way when its under full compression in the cylinder it may not spark at all. Second thing to consider is whether the saw is flooding on its own by way of a leaking inlet needle in the carb. Others words the saw may be flooded already before you pull the rope for the first time due to gas easing in by way of a leaky inlet needle in the carb.

You say you see wet fuel coming past the decompression valve, I'm betting you merely have a flooded engine. Take out the spark plug and crank the engine over serveral times, 10 or more times to clear out the excess fuel. Put in a "NEW" spark plug and attempt to start the motor without using choke. There will still be some fuel in the crankcase to make up for the choke. Put the switch on, lock the trigger to fast idle but avoid choke. Crank it and if it fires keep cranking till she starts and smokes like a bit-ch clearing out the excess fuel in the crankcase. If that saw continues flood all the time have that carb cleaned and inlet needle replaced. A leaky inlet needle has caused many good arms to go see Mr Ben-Gay and tempers to Anger Management. A leaky inlet needle have also sent many a good saw flying across many yards.....

 

[spacemule]

A leaky inlet needle has caused many good arms to go see Mr Ben-Gay and tempers to Anger Management. A leaky inlet needle have also sent many a good saw flying across many yards.....

I thought a "Stihl" sign printed on the side caused that.

 

[THALL10326]

I thought a "Stihl" sign printed on the side caused that.

Hahaha, I think the saw in question is a Husky. Me being a fine Stihl fellow though I STIHL try to help out my Husky brothers. See Space I'm not bias at all..

 

[curdy]

So sounds like the easiest thing to try first is just replacing the spark plug...cheap, and if not the culprit, a good thing to have as a back up.

 

[THALL10326]

So sounds like the easiest thing to try first is just replacing the spark plug...cheap, and if not the culprit, a good thing to have as a back up.

Yup you'd be correct there. Spark plugs go bad though many don't believe that. I've gotton brand new ones right out of the box that would not fire. They also tend to wear, meaning the gap widens over use and the wider the gap the more current it takes to fire them. Get a new one and give it a try, only a few bucks and if she fires right up it was a cheap fix indeed...

 

[Austin1]

If you got plenty of fire and the right amount of fuel going in that saw should start if everything is in good conditiion. Two things to remember, checking spark by laying the tip of the plug againist metal is not a valid spark test. Even though it may show a spark that way when its under full compression in the cylinder it may not spark at all. Second thing to consider is whether the saw is flooding on its own by way of a leaking inlet needle in the carb. Others words the saw may be flooded already before you pull the rope for the first time due to gas easing in by way of a leaky inlet needle in the carb.

You say you see wet fuel coming past the decompression valve, I'm betting you merely have a flooded engine. Take out the spark plug and crank the engine over serveral times, 10 or more times to clear out the excess fuel. Put in a "NEW" spark plug and attempt to start the motor without using choke. There will still be some fuel in the crankcase to make up for the choke. Put the switch on, lock the trigger to fast idle but avoid choke. Crank it and if it fires keep cranking till she starts and smokes like a bit-ch clearing out the excess fuel in the crankcase. If that saw continues flood all the time have that carb cleaned and inlet needle replaced. A leaky inlet needle has caused many good arms to go see Mr Ben-Gay and tempers to Anger Management. A leaky inlet needle have also sent many a good saw flying across many yards.....

Thank you for such a great post my friend has a 361 that gave him fit's as it was hard to start, at first I thought he was flooding it. He was really pissed as it was brand new and my 2159 would always start with a pull or two. We could'nt figure out what was wrong as after a few day's it was starting great then the problem came back! As a last resort he popped a new plug in, and He just called me and said no more starting problems and can get back to building his cabin! I know it sounds strange but the new plug made a big difference. I ran across the same problem with a string trimmer I have.

 

[B_Turner]

So sounds like the easiest thing to try first is just replacing the spark plug...cheap, and if not the culprit, a good thing to have as a back up.

+1, Try a new plug.

 

[DGG]

And check the spark plug gap spacing. Most don't come properly gapped. This makes the plug work harder than necessary and wears it out quickly.

 

[curdy]

Good news, got it started. I went ahead and changed the spark plug. Changed the gas again, just in case. I spoke with John Walker out in BC earlier and he suggested trying it with no choke and have the throttle open to give it as much air as possible. Worked like a charm...except...

When it started (and after my sigh of relief) it started to run then died. Had a hard time tarting it again and it did the same thing.

I then noticed the chain was loose. Upon closer inspection the chain wouldn't move. I took the cover off and the chain wasn't fully set on the sprocket. I'll take the blame for this one as it most likely happened when I put the thing on in a hurry.

Seems that was playing a role in its lack of starting because once I had that set right, it started like a champ! Never thought that a chain issue would create a starting issue...but it makes sense after seeing it.

Hope this experience helps others in the future.