car muffler setup on chainsaw mill

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chuckwood

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I just saw this setup on facebook and I'm thinking about building something like it for my CSM. I don't like breathing exhaust fumes, after a day of milling I spend two days coughing unless I wear a respirator with those activated charcoal filters. These respirators get annoying in hot weather. And the other issue that is fixed is noise. I don't think my neighbors really like my milling, although nobody has said anything about it yet, but I'm sure they'd rather things be quiet. A car muffler would really cut down on a lot of the racket. It seems it would be simple to make. Fabricate a bracket with a round outlet that bolts onto the cylinder exhaust, and connect flex pipe from there up to the muffler.

 
It is hard to say on how much it cut down on the noise, seemed pretty loud on the video. Plus the hot pipe right by your arm and face. I guess you would not be out of a whole lot making one, get a junkyard muffler for cheap.
 
You need to be careful using any sort of back pressure system because you could compromise the saw performance and even overheat the saw.

The main problem with most CS mufflers is they face forward reflecting the exhaust from the log or mill up into the air in front of the operators face.

I noticed a big difference when swapping between an 066 and a 3120, and an 076 where the exhaust is underneath the CS when milling.
Not only was I constantly breathing exhaust I found all my clothes, hair an skin was coated in lube by the end of the day.
The 076 was a definite improvement although it did tend to warm up my feet a bit.

When I muffler modded the 880 this is what I cam up with.
BTW the ID of that pipe is 3/4" which is 76% larger than the stock 9/16" opening.
all2-jpg.402635

The exhaust pulse can be seen puffing up dust on the ground some 7-8 ft from the saw.
An added bonus is I never walk in sawdust again because the sawdust falls into the exhaust stream and most of it is blown away from the operators feet.
Even after milling a 40" log I end up with only a couple of inches of sawdust under my feet.

One downside was the extra noise with the stock saw supposed to be 108dB at the operators ears the modified saw was now 116dB.
my solution to this was to use ear plugs as well as a really good pair of earmuffs.

When I was 20 years old I was legally deaf for my age and so have always gone to some effort to protect what hearing I have left.
I have only milled using the highest dB rated Peltor muffs.
Since doing this I have been able to protect my hearing to the point that I am now about average in terms of hearing loss for my age.
 
Ideally you'd need a tuned pipe of some kind. It's been done before - Stu from Tokyo has done urban milling in down town Tokyo using a tuned pipe.
Here is a link http://www.ablett.jp/workshop_archive/csm2.htm

Thanks for that link.

I'm going to look into a tuned pipe with big muffler setup sometime. My woodlot is in an urban area, and my neighbors can probably deal with the firewood cutting that I do from time to time, but I'm real worried about my milling. My Husky L77 is pretty loud, and the big Stihl is even worse.
 
I bet that saw is getting way too hot. I did same thing on my 088, after 1.5 hours run time started getting some piston scoring.

I wonder how hard it would be to install a temperature guage on a chainsaw to alert the operator about overheating. What are the red zone temperatures for an air cooled 2 cycle engine and where would be a good spot to take measurements?
 
I'm wondering if anyone has built a tuned pipe for a milling head. People usually build them for cant racing but I don't see why it wouldn't help with milling to get the exhaust out of the way. The only draw back is it wont help with the noise unless you put some sort of baffle on it. If noise wasn't a factor I would be seeking out a builder for a tuned pipe.
 
I wonder how hard it would be to install a temperature guage on a chainsaw to alert the operator about overheating. What are the red zone temperatures for an air cooled 2 cycle engine and where would be a good spot to take measurements?
Exhaust gas temperature would be about as ideal as you can get. You could have one installed in the muffler right at the outlet of the exhaust port and have a digital display right on the handle bar. If I recall correctly, water cooled snowmobiles run EGT temps in the 1300*F range. Air cooled should be considerably cooler.
 
I'm wondering if anyone has built a tuned pipe for a milling head. People usually build them for cant racing but I don't see why it wouldn't help with milling to get the exhaust out of the way. The only draw back is it wont help with the noise unless you put some sort of baffle on it. If noise wasn't a factor I would be seeking out a builder for a tuned pipe.
This may sound weird but I use to mill with a poulan pp4620avx piped. It worked well at all throttle positions and didn't get hot. I'd run it till it was catching air bubbles then refill and go at it again. I'd say or recommend using the glass filled silencer it helps a lot vs a straight stinger pipe
 
I just saw this setup on facebook and I'm thinking about building something like it for my CSM. I don't like breathing exhaust fumes, after a day of milling I spend two days coughing unless I wear a respirator with those activated charcoal filters. These respirators get annoying in hot weather. And the other issue that is fixed is noise. I don't think my neighbors really like my milling, although nobody has said anything about it yet, but I'm sure they'd rather things be quiet. A car muffler would really cut down on a lot of the racket. It seems it would be simple to make. Fabricate a bracket with a round outlet that bolts onto the cylinder exhaust, and connect flex pipe from there up to the muffler.


Frickin loud
 
That is clutch, what is it really intended for?

Never mind, I missed where it says 50cc scooter, awesom. I need one for a 100cc scooter lol.
The pipe I made for the Poulan is built from a pocket rocket pipe and moped header pipe. What kind of scooter you have?
 
Ear plugs are a lot lighter to pack around lol

But earplugs won't give sufficient coverage that ear muffs can provide. This is not because ear plugs don't work but because of fitting issues. Extensive research has been done on the actual fitting and use of earplugs and the main problem is that even professional audiologists were not able t fit earplugs correctly every time so what chance has the average joe got of doing it. Muffs are not perfect (i.e. affected by the wearing of glasses etc) but on average were found to be worn more often and to be more effective.

I wonder how hard it would be to install a temperature guage on a chainsaw to alert the operator about overheating. What are the red zone temperatures for an air cooled 2 cycle engine and where would be a good spot to take measurements?

This is the instrument deck on my 880 - the Orange and black gauge is a taco and the Blue gauge is a TRAX RC temperature gauge.
The thermocouple sensor is just wedged in behind the exhaust manifold and while not as accurate or rapid response as an EGA sensor it the relative temp readings are still useful.
The gauge shows things like
- as the chain gets blunt the temp goes up.
- checking temps during cool down at the end of a long cut - it takes a lot longer for the saw to cool down than you think
- I can see the temp changing when adding or removing the aux oiler.

Tempmon1.jpg

Some other things about mounting instruments this way.
The temp gauge has replaceable batteries and is very lightweight so I mounted this one using velcro.
The Taco does not have any replaceable batteries so that is screwed down.
Most instruments don't like vibe or temperature so if you are not using them then removed them from the saw otherwise they may die prematurely
 
But earplugs won't give sufficient coverage that ear muffs can provide. This is not because ear plugs don't work but because of fitting issues. Extensive research has been done on the actual fitting and use of earplugs and the main problem is that even professional audiologists were not able t fit earplugs correctly every time so what chance has the average joe got of doing it. Muffs are not perfect (i.e. affected by the wearing of glasses etc) but on average were found to be worn more often and to be more effective.



This is the instrument deck on my 880 - the Orange and black gauge is a taco and the Blue gauge is a TRAX RC temperature gauge.
The thermocouple sensor is just wedged in behind the exhaust manifold and while not as accurate or rapid response as an EGA sensor it the relative temp readings are still useful.
The gauge shows things like
- as the chain gets blunt the temp goes up.
- checking temps during cool down at the end of a long cut - it takes a lot longer for the saw to cool down than you think
- I can see the temp changing when adding or removing the aux oiler.

View attachment 492816

Some other things about mounting instruments this way.
The temp gauge has replaceable batteries and is very lightweight so I mounted this one using velcro.
The Taco does not have any replaceable batteries so that is screwed down.
Most instruments don't like vibe or temperature so if you are not using them then removed them from the saw otherwise they may die prematurely
Those rc car temp monitors are pretty nice to have.
 
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