Central Boiler Install Which Pex Piping To Use???

[mccann316]

I'm installing a CB 5036 100' away from my house. Is it worth buying the Insulpex solid foam insulated tubing for $13 a ft or will the insulation wrapped PEX work fine for around $5 a ft. What about getting the double, triple or quadrawrapped versions? Also I don't understand why there is no insulation between the lines on any of the pipe? Does the return cool the main line since they are right next to each other?

Thanks!

 

[Butch(OH)]

I used Urecon (Google it for details) insulated conduit and pulled std pex into it. I got over the cost pretty quick and have no detectable losses meaning a person cannot tell were my lines are burried by snow thaw. Others are very happy with the types you are asking about. As for the lines touching you are correct that some heat transfers but it only affects delivered BTUs as the transferred heat is returned to the boiler, not lost as with heat lost to the ground. I realy dont think that the lines touching is much of an issue in most installations. I guess it would depend on distances? If you are pushing the max distance from stove to home then it could be a consideration. Mine is 60' from the house and can tell you it is a non issue here.

 

[MS-310]

Trust all of use and buy the more money stuff, we sell microflex for 11 a foot....works great you get what you pay for with underground line....

 

[mccann316]

Ok, so I am still just as confused. I can buy pex pipe with 4 wraps of insulation shipped to my door for $608.00 for 150'. I can buy Insulpex foam filled pipe 150' for $1950.00. There is a MAJOR difference in price. I have been researching and asking around and get answers both ways. Both seem to be the same pex tubing and both seem to be in the sealed drain type 4" pipe. Some people say that the cheaper kind is no good in wet soil but what does it matter if the outside pipe is not punctured? Shouldn't it be water tight? I can see if the wrapped insulation go wet it would be no good but what if it doesn't get wet. Does 2 degrees or whatever loss there is between the two really make a difference when you are dealing with 180 degree water?

Bottom line: I'll buy the good pipe if necessary and practical but if the cheap pipe is a decent value I don't have the extra cash at all to be putting out.

Thanks for your responses!

 

[ericjeeper]

Keeping the end of the 4 inch pipe waterproof

I used 5 inch for mine. I gaumed the end of it full of that nasty arsed spray foam.. It sticks to everything.
Of course the end of my 5 inch is going right in to the top of my outside storage tank. So I have steam to fight.
Where as most are just coming up out of the ground to their boiler. Just make sure no water EVER gets into the 4 inch.. and you will be good to go with whichever you choose. Water will make whatever insulation packing you use nil and void.

 

[abohac]

I'm installing a CB 5036 100' away from my house. Is it worth buying the Insulpex solid foam insulated tubing for $13 a ft or will the insulation wrapped PEX work fine for around $5 a ft. What about getting the double, triple or quadrawrapped versions? Also I don't understand why there is no insulation between the lines on any of the pipe? Does the return cool the main line since they are right next to each other?

Thanks!

Think I'd listen to MS310. I'm sure they make better stuff today than what I used but this is what I did; I used regular pex and jammed 4 lines (2 hot 2 returns in 4 inch PVC that was wrapped with 4 inch foam and then wrapped with a rubber sleeve. I then glued the joints (no joints in pex) and the pipe manufacturer provided me with these bandade looking things to wrap each joint. I dug my trench below frost (about 4 feet) and put a layer of 4inch pea stone on the bottom of the trench to keep water away (hopefully). My stove is 300 feet from my house and I have never had a problem. Also, don't worry about separating the return from the supply. If things are done right you will be sending water back only a few degrees different. Also, who cares where the water get the heat from? Do the underground right. Do not cut corners here.

 

[mimilkman1]

I have the same stove you have and I used the insulation wrapped pex. It came in 8 ft tubes. I marked the hot and cold line before I stuffed the pipe in, then glued and duct taped the joints where the insulation tubes came together. This is very important, it is easy for the tubes to come apart when you are stretching the rubber sleeve over the whole thing. To make that a little easier I put some baby powder on the inside of the sleeve before stretching it over the insulation. This method is more work, but a lot cheaper and probably works just as well as the more expensive stuff. Hope this helps.

Kyle

 

[twofer]

A lot of guys are digging a trench for the lines and then hiring a company to come out and foam them in place. Just an idea...

 

[sno-man!]

I know around here there are a lot of people just spray foaming around the pex. Most are spraying around 5-8" of foam and it seems to work real well, and is a lot more cost effective.

 

[bill's firewood]

I installed a 5036 this spring 160 ft from my house. I spent the money on central pex piping. Figured if i was going to do the job why not do it the way central boiler recomended,after all they do have a pretty good reputation.The install was very easy. Dig a ditch 24inches deep,lay bed of sand down,lay pipe in ditch,cover with sand,dress it off with topsoil,seed it and forget about it. It doesn't get any easier than that.Might not be the cheapest way to go but it is done and basically fool proof.Cenpex is the only way to go as far as i can see.I did research other ideas and looked at many installs with other boiler brands and this worked for me.Just a suggestion.

 

[LTREES]

Pipe

Butch, what did you pay for that economical Urecon pipe?