I have the 6048 Classic, just over a year old. I was outside the other day when I heard the damper close. Less than 10 seconds later it opened again. Anyone who has one knows that this should not open again until the temperature is raised another 10 degrees. I went to the temperature controller and the readout had two lower case oo or half Eights. Then shortly after I saw the temperature fluctuating from the 180's all the way up to the 230's within 30 seconds. I contacted my dealer and he said it was a faulty "LOVE" control. Still under warranty, just curious if anyone else had this problem?
Central Boiler Temperature Controller Malfuntioning
- Thread starter Hydrori
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builder1101
ArboristSite Operative
might be ab ad thermocouple.
they're ranged from 0 to 999 on a millivolt scale...few millvolts can be several degrees....
just replace it with one from dywer, like $80, ,and it's unlocked since it's OEM....who cares about the warranty....
they're ranged from 0 to 999 on a millivolt scale...few millvolts can be several degrees....
just replace it with one from dywer, like $80, ,and it's unlocked since it's OEM....who cares about the warranty....
I will have them replace it under warranty and see what that does. I will keep your suggestion in mind if it fails again. Thanks for the reply.
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Steveguy
ArboristSite Operative
I have a CB 5036 that did the same thing the end of last season. I got a replacement controller from CB dealer, only about 50 bucks with a new RTD.
These controllers use rtd( resistance thermal device) , not thermocouple sensors. I installed the new controller with the old rtd, just to troubleshoot. It worked fine. Then I hooked up the old controller to the new rtd on the bench to test it. Sometimes it powered up ok, but othertimes the temp fluctuated greatly. So it was the controller in my case, and I have a spare sensor if I need it. I could have bought a love controller also, but the price from central boiler dealer was real competitive.
Oh, I should mention too, it isn't really a temp controller in the strictist definition , it is a temp switch. It doesn't have PID tuning etc. Like a full industrial process controller. It just turns on and off at setpoints.
These controllers use rtd( resistance thermal device) , not thermocouple sensors. I installed the new controller with the old rtd, just to troubleshoot. It worked fine. Then I hooked up the old controller to the new rtd on the bench to test it. Sometimes it powered up ok, but othertimes the temp fluctuated greatly. So it was the controller in my case, and I have a spare sensor if I need it. I could have bought a love controller also, but the price from central boiler dealer was real competitive.
Oh, I should mention too, it isn't really a temp controller in the strictist definition , it is a temp switch. It doesn't have PID tuning etc. Like a full industrial process controller. It just turns on and off at setpoints.
I suggest start with the simple stuff first. Mine (CB) did the same thing to me after a year of service. Temp was going up and down crazy and door opening and closing. Called the dealer and he said to do the follwing. Turn off all the electrics, Open up the control panel and loosen AND retighten ALL the wire connections. All I can say he was dead on and it's been fine for 5 years now. Might want to give it a shot. Kevin
Makes sense when you think about a bad wire coneection.
Makes sense when you think about a bad wire coneection.
New Controller, Old Problem
In my case my local dealer sold me a new LOVE controller and lead. I replaced both on my CB 5036, but at first it appears that it did not fix the problem however I wont know for sure until the damper and temperature display starts acting erratic again. The only indication I have that it may not have worked is that there is a dot (or period) in the temp display (example: 136 degrees is reading 1'36).
I first noticed the problem when we ran a new underground electric wire about 100 feet from my house to the CB unit in order to hookup the CB electric to my home's generator lead in case of an ice storm. Always before it ran off a closer 35' wire from my garage on a separate electrical box. Could it be that my new wire somehow isn't supplying the amperage that's needed to run the boiler - perhaps because of the distance?
I'm going to try what Kevin suggested and also test the unit by hooking it back up to the garage.
Thanks for sharing and all your help!!!
In my case my local dealer sold me a new LOVE controller and lead. I replaced both on my CB 5036, but at first it appears that it did not fix the problem however I wont know for sure until the damper and temperature display starts acting erratic again. The only indication I have that it may not have worked is that there is a dot (or period) in the temp display (example: 136 degrees is reading 1'36).
I first noticed the problem when we ran a new underground electric wire about 100 feet from my house to the CB unit in order to hookup the CB electric to my home's generator lead in case of an ice storm. Always before it ran off a closer 35' wire from my garage on a separate electrical box. Could it be that my new wire somehow isn't supplying the amperage that's needed to run the boiler - perhaps because of the distance?
I'm going to try what Kevin suggested and also test the unit by hooking it back up to the garage.
Thanks for sharing and all your help!!!
CBwoodheat
ArboristSite Lurker
Distance should not be the problem
The controllers have a dot above the temperature display that appears when the damper should be open or in other words when the water temperature is 10 degrees or more below the set temperature and the stove is "calling for heat"
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