Chain brake spring install
- Thread starter Joseph W Santora
- Start date
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I've done 2. Had parts flying both times.
Take a flat screwdriver and notch the tip, push spring to the edge, remove screwdriver and push spring down in slot.
Here's a tool I made in the shop that works:
I used it yesterday when I installed a new chain brake handle onto a Stihl MS 500i.
I used it yesterday when I installed a new chain brake handle onto a Stihl MS 500i.
Joseph W Santora
ArboristSite Operative
I'll try the slotted screwdriver thing......While wearing my full face motorcycle helmet.
I like your idea. Might have to do something like that.
I'm always doing springs it seems on rebuilding those darn things. Started wearing thick leather gloves with the flat screwdriver method.
They are super easy, put your spring pusher/ compressor inside the spring not on the outer edge ,that causes the spring to buckle.
Note that the flat screwdriver easily slips off the case pin when the spring is stretched because it exerts so much force on the screwderiver. The tool I made hangs on because of the concave end that wraps around the pin. I usually add some lube on the round shaft that leads down so that the spring slips right onto the pin. Believe me, it works.
That reminds me, I think the last one I did I used an old drum brake spring tool.
I did my 500i the other day as well, all I can add from what's been said above is think about where your hands will go if the screwdriver slips. Watch for stuff on your saw and stuff on your bench. Busted my knuckles numerous times when the flat screwdriver slipped. I like the idea of a notch.
Stihl does sell a special tool
1117 890 0900
Similar to wood doctor
1117 890 0900
Similar to wood doctor
Stihls are pretty easy compared to the Husky.
On the one pictured, I use a large flat screwdriver between the last 2 coils and arch the center of the spring outward to where both ends are in the spring slot and then push the middle in. All while holding down the white piece on the left end or it can break
On the one pictured, I use a large flat screwdriver between the last 2 coils and arch the center of the spring outward to where both ends are in the spring slot and then push the middle in. All while holding down the white piece on the left end or it can break
SIMPLE TOOL TO MAKE THAT WORKS FINE - take a blade screw driver (3/16?) and simply file a groove in it with a small file. The groove will hold the screw driver tip on the pin well enough to slip the spring on. You don’t even have to ruin the screw driver blade.
Same approach I chose. Makes the install so easy and the blade has never slipped off the pin.
What's with this "pin" thing? Are you compressing the spring from the forward end where it meets the nylon block?
More advice: Make sure the nylon block at the front of the spring is in it's most forward position before attempting to compress the spring. Keep a shop rag held down with a gloved hand over most of the spring and forward parts, if things go badly you won't have to waste time looking for parts.
I think the thread got slightly derailed. The OP asked about a Husky brake spring, some replies (including mine) broadened the scope to Stihl brake springs. Some installations compress the spring to install, others stretch it. Both can be a pain without good tools and technique.
The same guys claiming how easy it is to install a stihl brake spring with their specially made tool would struggle for hours on the one that the OP actually posted about lol. I know I did
This is how I do it, they say a pict is better than an explanation or 100 words. I ground a couple of light notches in the sides of my pusher to allow the spring coils to seat against them.
