Chainsaw Buyers Guide: What should I include?

[retoocs555]

Ebay has a relatively new section titled reviews and guides and I've decided to take it upon myself to write a guide to buying chainsaws. I do quite a lot on ebay and it would ge great if some of the knuckleheads clicked onto this before buying a saw that was absolutely wrong for them.

I have some idea about what info I'd like to include. I definitely want to link to that osha site for saftey, this site and mikes site. Give some displacment ranges and what type of work they are capable of, maybe head off the "can this mini mac handle a 30" bar?" questions . Different types and size of chain and why you can't mix. Explain parts availablity on old chainsaws. The difference between a top handle limbing saw. Why you don't run straight gas, and not to oil the chain with used motor oil. What a 'parts saw' is.

I'm looking for any input. What you think I should include. Suggestions on how to break down displacement categories. Links. If anybody say wants to contribute a paragraph about a topic I'd be happy to include it. I have a whole bunch of husky and jred handlebars sitting around and I'd be happy to give those away to any contributors.

Here is a link to that part of ebay http://reviews.ebay.com/

-Scott

 

[retoocs555]

Hey Scott,

You ought to include the warning that a lot of the saws sold on E-bay are for sale because they have problems and the buyer needs to know a good saw mechanic or be one themselves.

This is quite true. Unless specifically stated otherwise (in writing or in the auction) assume it doesn't work. Then if it isn't as stated at least you have something to go on.

I hate to see parts saws disguised as good running saws. Maybe I could explain some important questions that they should ask or look for in auctions? Like what spark is and why a saw should have it Or explain compression.

 

[Wolfcsm]

I would recommend talking a good bit about basic maintenance for saw, chain and bar. Lots of sites, like Masden's, that have a good bit of good information on these subjects.

Might want to look at all of the safty things in the saw safety book from Stihl. Doubt that many read the whole thing. Might read some more on the web - might.

Certainly links to sites like this, with the caveat that they have to put up with some BS from the "pros" to get answers to questions.

Hal

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

You might also mention that a brand name simply isn't enough to go on. These guys that buy an MS 250 for $500 just because they say Stihl on them. Explain to them that many saws aren't as expensive as the seller would have you believe, and that you can often get the saw brand new for equal to or less than the auction is going for. Warn them about people selling saws with the factory warrantee intact, as this is often suspect.

The comment about having them always expect a DOA saw is a good one. They should always plan on the worse case scenario. Warn them against short, inaccurate descriptions like, "The last time I had it out, it ran fine," or "I just had it tuned up." And maybe if you can tell the sellers that it's a bar, not a blade. Calling it a blade makes them sound like a moron.

And then tell them to stay away from the seller ferarribrian!

Jeff

 

[NorthWoods]

You might also mention that a brand name simply isn't enough to go on. These guys that buy an MS 250 for $500 just because they say Stihl on them. Explain to them that many saws aren't as expensive as the seller would have you believe, and that you can often get the saw brand new for equal to or less than the auction is going for. Warn them about people selling saws with the factory warrantee intact, as this is often suspect.

The comment about having them always expect a DOA saw is a good one. They should always plan on the worse case scenario. Warn them against short, inaccurate descriptions like, "The last time I had it out, it ran fine," or "I just had it tuned up." And maybe if you can tell the sellers that it's a bar, not a blade. Calling it a blade makes them sound like a moron.

And then tell them to stay away from the seller ferarribrian!

Jeff

Amen to what Jeff said about that Ebay seller.

Among many other items, I've bought 3 saws (Stihls) off of Ebay. 2 new ones and 1 used. All good transactions (so far).

Two things that I always do (and suggest) when contemplating a bid/purchase:

1). Do your homework and research the seller. Don't just look at the Positive Feedback %. If there are any negatives or neutrals, look further into the feedback exchanges. Many times you can get a feel for the type of person the seller is. The seller the Jeff mentioned is a prime example of this: He screws up and then flames anyone that dares to post a negative against him.

2). Don't get caught up in bidding and overpay. Set your max and stick to it! Kinda like going to a casino and not having a loss limit set before you start feeding the "house".

Dave

 

[Billy_Bob]

Maybe something along the lines of how much wood they are cutting per year, size of logs, etc. Then model(s), bar length, and chain.

Also amount of experience. If little or none = low kickback bar and chain. New buyers would not know there was any difference.

And perhaps how much experience and learning someone should have before using a pro saw with a high kickback chain.

 

[badcars2]

one more thing

if you happen to get a good deal on a 066 stihl or above. you have just bought way too much saw to learn on. go to lowes get a wild thing or something and then buy a real saw when you getr comfortable.
dont tempt fate. any saw will hurt you bad, but a lrge saw in the wrong hands is just asking for way too much trouble......