Chainsaw Milling Thread

[max2cam]

How would you guys lift logs off the ground for chainsaw milling purposes?

I've been using an old cant hook to roll them (8 footers) onto wooden sleepers but that isn't always too easy to do. This work is all by hand and power equipment is not an option.

I've been thinking of using either a jack or a tripod arrangement with a pulley or come-along to lift them just enough to slip the sleepers underneath, but knowing how ingenious you guys are I thought I'd ask how you might do it.

Thanks!
http://www.atthecreation.com/

 

[scottr]

Stepped Sleepers

Max , would it be easier if you made a pair of steps from 2x6 lumber to roll the log up ? How far off the ground is the bottom of the log that you mill? We need details.

 

[Bremen]

I don't do any milling, though I may try it in the future.

Once upon a time I was tempted to rig up something using one of those sub-$200 2-ton shop cranes that could be trailered behind truck/atv/etc using a long T frame. With tires/stabilizers near the lift point and a long frame, you'd have a modest upward force at the ball hitch.. Not the most portable, but easy to use. Probably more trouble than it's worth to build though.

I have other more portable ideas, but just what size stuff are we lifting, and where? Got a welder?

PS this is all from my twisted imagination, I'm not speaking from any measurable amount of experience. Take with salt.

 

[user 2993]

A jack such as this one might work pretty well, it's something I have been considering. You can set the lift point above an end of the log and lift it with a rope or chain. Or possibly grind the end to a point which you can pound into the log.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...OS=on&TEST=Y&productId=19643&categoryId=90556

 

[Bremen]

My dad used to sell those things, decades ago. "Farm Jacks" I think we called em, handy to have around. They are pretty tough and versatile, if a bit heavy.

For lifting a log, you'd hafta find a way to prevent the whole shebang from falling over sideways once airborne. In short, hold either the jack or the log in place somehow.

 

[max2cam]

The size of these red pine logs run 8 feet long and the greatest diameter is about 24 inches but often less. They are pretty easy to roll.

The logs don't need to be off the ground very far. About 1 foot is okay. Not only to keep the bar out of the dirt but the higher the log sits the less bending over there is which is hard on ones back. So a little higher than a foot might be better. The ones I'm doing now are about 8 inches off the ground.

I was looking at that farm jack at Northern. One way to address the tipping issue would be to jack up one end of the log at a time. The far end of the log would stick in the ground and then you could slip the sleeper underneath. The second end might roll on the sleeper a little so you'd have to jam or block it somehow.

A tripod would be fairly easy to assemble from small logs and then chaining or bolting them together at the top. I may try that in the near future as I have all the necessary stuff on hand to experiment.

However, the idea of rolling the log up on "steps" might work too. I've already been kind of doing that using chunks of wood and packed snow. But I would like to get the logs up somewhat higher.

Packed snow is also good for holding the cant once it starts getting narrow and tippy. Packing snow on both sides let me saw an extra wide board yesterday.

This backyard milling sure is fun and useful. I've got a nice pile of boards in various sizes down in the swamp stacked up nice an pretty. Some really nice clean wide boards too. This is no fancy operation with expensive equipment either.

 

[John Ellison]

M2C, logs that size can easily be parbuckled a lot higher than that. It is a simple, old method that uses the log itself as a block to give double pulling power. I am not very good at putting things into words, but here goes.
Say that your log "bunks" are two 24" logs laying at a right angle to the log that you are going to mill. You will need two poles, 4x4s or something similar,about 8' long. Notch the log bunks so that the ramps wont fall off. You will need some kind of a "tail hold" on the opposite side of the bunks from the log you are moving. Tree, pickup or whatever. Idealy, you would have a long chain with each end fastened to the tail hold(s) Take the bight of the chain and go between the bunks,then under the log,up over the top and back between the bunks, where again,ideally you come to the end of your bight of chain. If your log is a perfect cyl with no taper then you would attach to the chain right in the middle, but you can use a grab hook and attach off center to allow for a swell or if your log isnt lying straight. From here you use rope, chain, cable or whatever and attach to your power source Pickup, lawnmower, mule or strongarm. If your ramps are long enough to keep the angle down,you could probably roll them up with just a straight pull, other wise hang a block,(pulley) on the chain. Also, you will need a log stop on the bunks.
Hope this helps, maybe someone else can fill in my bad spots. Lots easier and quicker than it sounds after you have done it a few times

John

 

[scottr]

Milling Video

Max, the video of the LT15 shows a ramp that would be easy to take from site to site and is safe to use. It has stops to prevent rollbacks and would be easy to attach to a trestle or whatever you want to set your log on.

 

[max2cam]

Originally posted by John Ellison
M2C, logs that size can easily be parbuckled a lot higher than that. It is a simple, old method that uses the log itself as a block to give double pulling power. I am not very good at putting things into words, but here goes.
Say that your log "bunks" are two 24" logs laying at a right angle to the log that you are going to mill. You will need two poles, 4x4s or something similar,about 8' long. Notch the log bunks so that the ramps wont fall off. You will need some kind of a "tail hold" on the opposite side of the bunks from the log you are moving. Tree, pickup or whatever. Idealy, you would have a long chain with each end fastened to the tail hold(s) Take the bight of the chain and go between the bunks,then under the log,up over the top and back between the bunks, where again,ideally you come to the end of your bight of chain. If your log is a perfect cyl with no taper then you would attach to the chain right in the middle, but you can use a grab hook and attach off center to allow for a swell or if your log isnt lying straight. From here you use rope, chain, cable or whatever and attach to your power source Pickup, lawnmower, mule or strongarm. If your ramps are long enough to keep the angle down,you could probably roll them up with just a straight pull, other wise hang a block,(pulley) on the chain. Also, you will need a log stop on the bunks.
Hope this helps, maybe someone else can fill in my bad spots. Lots easier and quicker than it sounds after you have done it a few times

John

Thanks!

I have to read this a few more times. I sort of get it, but not exactly. I wonder if there's a drawing or photo anywhere?

 

[max2cam]

Re: Milling Video

Originally posted by scottr
Max, the video of the LT15 shows a ramp that would be easy to take from site to site and is safe to use. It has stops to prevent rollbacks and would be easy to attach to a trestle or whatever you want to set your log on.

Can you point out which video this is?

I went to the LT15 Woodmizer site and the video I downloaded there didn't show any ramp.

When the video sound started up I nearly jumped out of my chair!

Looks like a really nice unit.

 

[scottr]

Milling Video

The VHS video has a guy loading a log onto the mill with ease . Call 1-800-553-0182

 

[max2cam]

Re: Milling Video

Originally posted by scottr
The VHS video has a guy loading a log onto the mill with ease . Call 1-800-553-0182

I called for the video. I just hope I don't like the milling unit so much I have to have one

 

[scottr]

Milling Video

Max , when you see their prices you'll come back to reality. Something else to consider is use a boat winch with a cable looped around the log to roll the log up the ramp instead of using a peavey. The ramps look easy to make. Do you move the mill to the log or are you just cutting in the pines?