NHWoodsman
New Member
Can any of you guys tell me the best way to check to determine if my chainsaw is "oiling" the bar/chain properly? My saws are Stihl 025, 025, and 028.
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Checking saws for proper oiling
- Thread starter NHWoodsman
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B_Turner
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm sure you will get a more thorough answer, but:
1) Your oil level should go down from 1/2 tank or more (not all the way) each fuel tank
2) When reving the motor with chain near something light colored, you should see some oil thrown onto that surface. Be careful when you do this, as bad things can happen if you get too casual.
3) With the motor not running, examing the chain including the drive links (still on the bar) and they should be slightly wet with oil
4) If your chain is sharp and the bar is running too warm, recheck all the above
5) With the bar off, rev the motor and oil should pump out the hole on the motor.
1) Your oil level should go down from 1/2 tank or more (not all the way) each fuel tank
2) When reving the motor with chain near something light colored, you should see some oil thrown onto that surface. Be careful when you do this, as bad things can happen if you get too casual.
3) With the motor not running, examing the chain including the drive links (still on the bar) and they should be slightly wet with oil
4) If your chain is sharp and the bar is running too warm, recheck all the above
5) With the bar off, rev the motor and oil should pump out the hole on the motor.
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Don't do what I did when you check this. Have your face too close to the hole on the motor - Yeah go on - laugh - oil in my eye!
beelsr
ArboristSite Guru
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RiverRat2
Serio Tree Freak
welcome To AS,,,,,
sounds like you got a good answer,,,, If I'm just putting one back together from a topend build when I am putting the first few heat runs on the rings I will have all of the chain drive components installed,,, less b/c and cover .... fill reservoir at least 1/2 full w bar oil,,, and once its started you will see pretty quick if its oiling or not :rockn: :rockn: :rockn:
sounds like you got a good answer,,,, If I'm just putting one back together from a topend build when I am putting the first few heat runs on the rings I will have all of the chain drive components installed,,, less b/c and cover .... fill reservoir at least 1/2 full w bar oil,,, and once its started you will see pretty quick if its oiling or not :rockn: :rockn: :rockn:
Time to junk it out?
Recently I bought a used 359 in "excellent-like new" condition. The homeowner finally admitted to me that it didn't cut good and he was going to buy another new saw. Everything looked good, compression was decent. However the saw was loaded with sawdust. It is amazing it started the air filter was so clogged.
A look at the original Husky bar and chain showed uneven bar wear (lose chain?) and the chain was about as sharp as a tennis ball (I know where all the sawdust came from). It started fine and I bought it. I did a little stone work on the bar and have everything back to level (you should have seen the pile of crud I dug out of the bar grove though). At some point the chain must have come lose because the chain guard and some of the sprocket/clutch hardware has some nice big dings in them. When I pulled the chain off and inspected it I found that the drive links are of varying lengths, shapes, and have dinged edges along the bottom of many of them. The cutters look fine except extremely dull. So here is the question.
Is it worth messing around sharpening the chain or does the dinged up drive link issue make it time to junk the chain out?
My guess is the guy bought it new, ran it until the chain popped off and either couldn't figure out how to put the chain back on or was so scared of it he decided to sell it. He may have bought it to clear storm damage with no intent to keep it. I have never seen one with a bar and chain so bad or a saw so full of sawdust.
Recently I bought a used 359 in "excellent-like new" condition. The homeowner finally admitted to me that it didn't cut good and he was going to buy another new saw. Everything looked good, compression was decent. However the saw was loaded with sawdust. It is amazing it started the air filter was so clogged.
A look at the original Husky bar and chain showed uneven bar wear (lose chain?) and the chain was about as sharp as a tennis ball (I know where all the sawdust came from). It started fine and I bought it. I did a little stone work on the bar and have everything back to level (you should have seen the pile of crud I dug out of the bar grove though). At some point the chain must have come lose because the chain guard and some of the sprocket/clutch hardware has some nice big dings in them. When I pulled the chain off and inspected it I found that the drive links are of varying lengths, shapes, and have dinged edges along the bottom of many of them. The cutters look fine except extremely dull. So here is the question.
Is it worth messing around sharpening the chain or does the dinged up drive link issue make it time to junk the chain out?
My guess is the guy bought it new, ran it until the chain popped off and either couldn't figure out how to put the chain back on or was so scared of it he decided to sell it. He may have bought it to clear storm damage with no intent to keep it. I have never seen one with a bar and chain so bad or a saw so full of sawdust.
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