Chinese Saw no throttle lock

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muddtree

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Can't get this saw to start. When you pull the throttle trigger it closes the choke.what am I doing wrong here?
 
Not a big surprise. When you purchase cheap Chinese **** what do you expect. There are so many well-built saws around not using slave labour to build them. Take it back where it came from.
 
When you say the choke "closes", I'm assuming you mean it opens. You probably have one of the saws where the choke interacts with the throttle mechanism, when you pull the choke out it closes the choke butterfly and advances the throttle to the partly open fast idle position and latches it there until the trigger is blipped, then the choke opens and the throttle is released to return to idle position. In normal cold start you begin with the choke pulled all the way out and crank it until it fires, then push the choke all the way in. DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE Pull it over again ad it should fire up and run at fast idle until you blip the throttle to get back to idle. To set the carb for fast idle with no choke (might need it for hot starts) you pull the choke all the way out and then push it all the way back in. Easy to confirm this by taking the top cover off and watching what happens at the carb.
Choke closed, choke shut, choke on, full choke........all mean the same
choke open, choke off, no choke.....all mean the same
 
When you say the choke "closes", I'm assuming you mean it opens. You probably have one of the saws where the choke interacts with the throttle mechanism, when you pull the choke out it closes the choke butterfly and advances the throttle to the partly open fast idle position and latches it there until the trigger is blipped, then the choke opens and the throttle is released to return to idle position. In normal cold start you begin with the choke pulled all the way out and crank it until it fires, then push the choke all the way in. DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE Pull it over again ad it should fire up and run at fast idle until you blip the throttle to get back to idle. To set the carb for fast idle with no choke (might need it for hot starts) you pull the choke all the way out and then push it all the way back in. Easy to confirm this by taking the top cover off and watching what happens at the carb.
Choke closed, choke shut, choke on, full choke........all mean the same
choke open, choke off, no choke.....all mean the same
Thank you
 
Thank you
Let us know if you get the starting issue solved. Your saw looks like an upgraded version of the Zenoah 5200 that I have, it's been a good reliable slightly underpowered workhorse. Came with a junk chain and a spark plug that didn't look well made, also did not like the E-Z pull starter so I disabled it. Clutch drum was a very loose fit on the crank, new one was the same. Oil pump leaked from the body, new one did the same. Nylon mesh filter let fine dust through so I filled it with oiled foam filter. Expect to find some issues with quality control. A simple muffler mod and carb retuning brings the power up a bit but it's never going to be a high rpm screamer.
 
Not a big surprise. When you purchase cheap Chinese **** what do you expect. There are so many well-built saws around not using slave labour to build them. Take it back where it came from.

Let us know if you get the starting issue solved. Your saw looks like an upgraded version of the Zenoah 5200 that I have, it's been a good reliable slightly underpowered workhorse. Came with a junk chain and a spark plug that didn't look well made, also did not like the E-Z pull starter so I disabled it. Clutch drum was a very loose fit on the crank, new one was the same. Oil pump leaked from the body, new one did the same. Nylon mesh filter let fine dust through so I filled it with oiled foam filter. Expect to find some issues with quality control. A simple muffler mod and carb retuning brings the power up a bit but it's never going to be a high rpm screamer.
Thanks for the tips. I bought this knowing some mods will be needed. I suspect the spark plug is junk and will go from there. Will keep you updated.
 
Not a big surprise. When you purchase cheap Chinese **** what do you expect. There are so many well-built saws around not using slave labour to build them. Take it back where it came from.
What you don't understand is that we can put them out of business by purchasing , refunding, and modify it to work
 
If you get one of these clones that was put together half decant they're a good little saw. I have a couple of them that get used often without issues.
In canada the wemars is stupid expensive but its supmix twin is dirt cheap and runs good.
As you figured out some of these have the fast idle built into the choke linkage so you dont need a throttle lock.
 
If you get one of these clones that was put together half decant they're a good little saw. I have a couple of them that get used often without issues.
In canada the wemars is stupid expensive but its supmix twin is dirt cheap and runs good.
As you figured out some of these have the fast idle built into the choke linkage so you dont need a throttle lock.
That's what I'm expecting. It's 50/50 on what you received. Hoping with a little mod this thing can cut descent.
 
Let us know if you get the starting issue solved. Your saw looks like an upgraded version of the Zenoah 5200 that I have, it's been a good reliable slightly underpowered workhorse. Came with a junk chain and a spark plug that didn't look well made, also did not like the E-Z pull starter so I disabled it. Clutch drum was a very loose fit on the crank, new one was the same. Oil pump leaked from the body, new one did the same. Nylon mesh filter let fine dust through so I filled it with oiled foam filter. Expect to find some issues with quality control. A simple muffler mod and carb retuning brings the power up a bit but it's never going to be a high rpm screamer.
Started it for the first time after a couple cold start pulls. I let it run on idle for 15 min to break it in. Then fired it on the warm start technique. Your advice is 100% spot on. Thank you brother. The manuals that come with the saw are for a different saw.
 
I received my red supmix 6200 yesterday. Hey, it was on-sale. 🥴 🤷‍♂️

Ran it today.

Plastics are kinda wimpy. Brake works good. Saw runs well. Like very well. I'd say it has everything that my pro name-brand 50cc saws have. Very, very close, anyway. Tuned good for break-in right outa the box. Idle was quite high, so I turned that down. Excellent throttle response. Kinda loud for its size, but I wear muffs, so no issue.

It weighs about the same as my name-branders. (Jonny 2152, Dolly 5105, jonny 590's).

It came with a 20" bar. I used it. Never had a 20 on a 50cc saw before. Oils like crazy, even turned down from max 1 notch. 😳 It pulled 20" buried in aspen. Cool. It wasn't the hardest aspen, but it never bogged and barely slowed down dawged-in pretty hard. Even ripping full bar. 😎

The chain is scary grabby and rough. I'll sharpen that out of it. It was a bit better near the end of the first tank, but still pretty rough in the wood.

It vibrates. Don't notice it much while cutting, other than the rough chain. Haven't figured that out yet. It's like the rakers are too low and not consistent, but I didn't really look yet.

Burns fuel like a 70's 454. Oils like the exxon valdez. 😎

It has a manual throttle lock that I doubt I'll ever use. No need.

So far, I'd say it's pretty good buying.

I gave it one break-in warm-up idling session. Let it cool off, then I made a few (like about 4) light cuts in about 6" stuff and then I let-er have it. She didn't complain whatsoever. A few seconds of idle, blipping cool-down here and there, checking for bar oil here and there. A few re-starts....chain stretched a bit. Normal. We'll see if it settles in.

Starts, runs, oils, re-starts. 😎

Cut a little firewood. 1 tank. I was surprised it ran out so soon. The tank might be a bit small? I was working the snot out of it tho..
 
I received my red supmix 6200 yesterday. Hey, it was on-sale. 🥴 🤷‍♂️

Ran it today.

Plastics are kinda wimpy. Brake works good. Saw runs well. Like very well. I'd say it has everything that my pro name-brand 50cc saws have. Very, very close, anyway. Tuned good for break-in right outa the box. Idle was quite high, so I turned that down. Excellent throttle response. Kinda loud for its size, but I wear muffs, so no issue.

It weighs about the same as my name-branders. (Jonny 2152, Dolly 5105, jonny 590's).

It came with a 20" bar. I used it. Never had a 20 on a 50cc saw before. Oils like crazy, even turned down from max 1 notch. 😳 It pulled 20" buried in aspen. Cool. It wasn't the hardest aspen, but it never bogged and barely slowed down dawged-in pretty hard. Even ripping full bar. 😎

The chain is scary grabby and rough. I'll sharpen that out of it. It was a bit better near the end of the first tank, but still pretty rough in the wood.

It vibrates. Don't notice it much while cutting, other than the rough chain. Haven't figured that out yet. It's like the rakers are too low and not consistent, but I didn't really look yet.

Burns fuel like a 70's 454. Oils like the exxon valdez. 😎

It has a manual throttle lock that I doubt I'll ever use. No need.

So far, I'd say it's pretty good buying.

I gave it one break-in warm-up idling session. Let it cool off, then I made a few (like about 4) light cuts in about 6" stuff and then I let-er have it. She didn't complain whatsoever. A few seconds of idle, blipping cool-down here and there, checking for bar oil here and there. A few re-starts....chain stretched a bit. Normal. We'll see if it settles in.

Starts, runs, oils, re-starts. 😎

Cut a little firewood. 1 tank. I was surprised it ran out so soon. The tank might be a bit small? I was working the snot out of it tho..
Sounds like you have a lot more experience with other saws than me. My first saws are these Amazon Wemars.. I keep getting refunded and ordering more. All mine still work with a few mods. The manuals are junk. This forum has taught me how to run them properly.
 
I went to the local Stihl shop and got shunned like no other. I want to make all my mistakes on these cheaper saws before paying top dollar for a Stihl.
 
I have one of these saws it was my first saw actually. You pull the choke pull the rope and get it going then push the choke in and do it again if needed.

I think I paid a whole $65 for mine at princess auto off their clearance table. I’m going to have to get it running after my muffler mod(mine had catalytic material in it). I have run the snot out of mine first can of fuel was a mix that was 40:1 with a touch of used motoroil that was left in the can. then as I would use it I would empty the bar oil back into the bottle(mine leaks bar oil) and use the same funnel to empty the fuel. God know what that mix ended up as but it burned it. I cut up a big dead ash with it that fell in the neghibors yard and it has dropped a pile of small yard trees and decorative cedars. Mine had a weird Oregon bar on it that uses a odd link count.
 
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