Choosing a saw for a chainsaw mill.

[Lorax1]

First post here. I am trying to choose a multi-use saw. For occasional use in a small chainsaw mill. (24" Alaskan model mill) Occasional firewood saw. I'll probably be ripping 16" trees occasionally. I have a limbing saw already. I am a mechanic by profession, and take meticulous care of my stuff.

Anyway, I think I have settled on a Stihl MS310. I'll probably get an 18 and a 24" bar for the mill. I've looked at Stihl and Husqvarna. To be honest, I am underwhelmed with the homeowner/intermediate offerings from both brands (from a plastic look and feel standpoint). Pro model saw isn't going to happen. Just can't spend more than $400 on the saw though. Total budget for saw, chainsaw mill, and extra ripping chains is about $700. About all I can afford ( justify) for my hobby right now.

If not the MS310, then what else should I consider in the $400 price range, with 55-60cc? Never owned a Stihl before. Not likely to go Husky. I own a top end Husky lawn tractor. It's been very mediocre (light duty), and factory service is too inconvenient. Considered used, but all I've found is abused junk locally. My Stihl dealer had a dazed look in his eyes when I mentioned I also needed a ripping chain, so I really don't trust his advice regarding saw selection.

Sorry for the ramble, hopefully that's enough info.
Thanks,
Dewayne

 

[Lakeside53]

I wouldn't... unless you are using it only for small wood less then 12 inches)... Milling being a continous power opertion, is is very hard on saws, and that saws lacks in the cooling dept.

If you do use a 310, the carb needs to be enrichened considerbly (saw detuned) and run on 32-40:1 synthetic mix.


50-60cc? way too small for milling even 16 inch wood.

For $400, I'd be looking for an older saw, like an 044, or even an old 056 in great condition ($200-300), or an 041 super around $200. An AS member can likely sell one to you.

 

[dustytools]

Welcome Dewayne. What type of 16 inch logs are you planning on milling?

 

[Lorax1]

I wouldn't... unless you are using it only for small wood less then 12 inches)... Milling being a continous power opertion, is is very hard on saws, and that saws lacks in the cooling dept.

If you do use a 310, the carb needs to be enrichened considerbly (saw detuned) and run on 32-40:1 synthetic mix.


50-60cc? way too small for milling even 16 inch wood.

For $400, I'd be looking for an older saw, like an 044, or even an old 056 in great condition ($200-300), or an 041 super around $200. An AS member can likely sell one to you.

Only info I have so far is from maker of the Alaskan mill. I was using this guideline... up to 18" 55cc to 67cc, 18" to 36" 68cc to 85cc, 36" & larger 86cc to 120cc

Most logs are likely to be in 10-18 range. Cedar, oak and if I am lucky, black walnut on occasion. I could go slow, but I no doubt be cutting hardwoods.

Thanks for the info. I had no idea the 310 was prone to overheating.

 

[dustytools]

I know that you stated that you would likely not own a Husky but a good used 372 will surely be within your $400 budget. Both the 440 and the 372 would do okay for occasional milling.:greenchainsaw:

 

[grandpatractor]

IMHO Check into getting a used Makita 6401 from one of the big box stores and then you could later upgrade(convert) it to a 7901:monkey: My 7900 has done well with milling, ain't that right wdchuck!

 

[Lorax1]

I know that you stated that you would likely not own a Husky but a good used 372 will surely be within your $400 budget. Both the 440 and the 372 would do okay for occasional milling.:greenchainsaw:

I haven't absolutely ruled out a Husky, but the ones I looked yesterday at seemed fragile and sloppily built. 455 Rancher, and a smaller one. I don't intend to drop my saw, but it would be nice if I could without having to order parts.

Did I mention I just came in from push mowing an acre lot that isn't flat, with my little Lawnboy push mower? Parts fell off my low hours Husky lawn tractor and went under the mower deck while running.......... again!!!! Parts are not handy, it's very hot and humid today. Probably a bad day to sell me a Husky saw

 

[SawTroll]

I know that you stated that you would likely not own a Husky but a good used 372 will surely be within your $400 budget. Both the 440 and the 372 would do okay for occasional milling.:greenchainsaw:

I'd prefere at least 90cc, but thats just me, and I have no personal experience, just have read a lot about it.....


...the 660 Logosol comes to mind.....:biggrinbounce2:

 

[oldsaw]

Only info I have so far is from maker of the Alaskan mill. I was using this guideline... up to 18" 55cc to 67cc, 18" to 36" 68cc to 85cc, 36" & larger 86cc to 120cc

Most logs are likely to be in 10-18 range. Cedar, oak and if I am lucky, black walnut on occasion. I could go slow, but I no doubt be cutting hardwoods.

Thanks for the info. I had no idea the 310 was prone to overheating.

Lorax, what Lake was getting at is that a saw built for occasional consumer use isn't going to handle the abuse of milling very well. You will need to step up to a pro grade saw. The suggestion of a used 372 or 440/460 Stihl is very solid, and highly recommended by me and Dustytools (a very knowledgable and experienced CSM'er by the way). You would destroy a 310 in short order.

You won't get much out of a 10" log. 14"+ will be where you want to be.

Mark

 

[computeruser]

Dollar for dollar, your best bet is to go with a used saw. It may require a bit of patience and some looking around to find *the saw*, but there is absolutely no way that ANY $400 product on the market today will be a long-lasting, satisfactory milling saw.

Though I am no expert on milling (not even close), I have seen just how much power it takes to produce a consistent and smooth product in a reasonable amount of time. Milling is hard on the saws and on the operator, and the process is going to be made tedious with an underpowered saw. Figure out what size bar length you are aiming to run and plan on finding a powerhead that allows for a 4:1 cc:inches ratio.

Larry and Kris with an 084:

Larry and his son with the results of their efforts:

I have posted the pics below before, but I think that they illustrate what can be had for $400 or so.

My 075 and 076, both 111cc. Saws of this type can be had in good running condition for the price of a new MS310, or less. It should go without saying that these saws would be much, much better equipped for the job of milling. The same would hold true for the 051 (89cc), and the 045/056 family, and their displacement might be more in line with the smaller projects you have in mind. The 084/088 would be nice, too, but are probably overpowered and, more importantly, overpriced for the work you have in mind.

My 066 cost me a couple dollars more than your $400 budget, but when I bought it the saw had only a couple tanks on a rebuild with a new Stihl piston and cylinder and a high-output oiler. A saw of this type would be your best bet as an all-around milling saw for small to medium sized logs. Husqvarna 394/395/298/2100, Dolmar 9010 (or the Solo or Makita rebadged versions), would also be great saws for your purposes.

Regardless, I would skip the 290/310/390 series for milling. The construction of the saws is not up to the task (plastic engine cradle, for example), even above and beyond the cooling issues. This series of saw is a reliable performer for home/ranch/friendly neighbor firewood duty, and is justiably popular in that role. But for milling, well, there are much better choices out there.

 

[computeruser]

I haven't absolutely ruled out a Husky, but the ones I looked yesterday at seemed fragile and sloppily built. 455 Rancher, and a smaller one. I don't intend to drop my saw, but it would be nice if I could without having to order parts.

Did I mention I just came in from push mowing an acre lot that isn't flat, with my little Lawnboy push mower? Parts fell off my low hours Husky lawn tractor and went under the mower deck while running.......... again!!!! Parts are not handy, it's very hot and humid today. Probably a bad day to sell me a Husky saw

I wouldn't equate their forestry products with their lawn care products. Aren't those mowers rebadged versions of somebody else's crap anyway? Either way, every brand has product lines that they are experts at - Husqvarna's saws, clearing saws, and such are top-shelf - and others that are just product line fillers.

 

[Lorax1]

I wouldn't equate their forestry products with their lawn care products. Aren't those mowers rebadged versions of somebody else's crap anyway? Either way, every brand has product lines that they are experts at - Husqvarna's saws, clearing saws, and such are top-shelf - and others that are just product line fillers.

The only equating I am actually doing is the waiting around for parts. It's aggravating. I've been a big box purchaser for years. The quality of todays products has me rethinking the way I purchase. No local parts only works if the product doesn't break a lot. Learning that the hard way lately.

And thanks so much for the wealth of info you posted on milling. I will skip the 310, and similar. There is no way I can get the CCs I need for my budget in a new saw. And I am probably going to have to buy two saws. Or I better get my Homelite fixed so it can hold me over.

 

[Al Smith]

Chainsaw milling is just a less expensive option for making lumber.It is low speed ,back breaking hard ,dirty work.You earn every board foot of lumber you cut.

If you even considering it don't fool around with a 60 to 80 cc saw.They may be dandy saws but they lack the grunt it takes to mill with.Bigger is better,at least 100 cc s.Milling chain produces the smoothest cut but regular old chisel is far faster and the finish is better that a circle mill,not as smooth as a bandmill.

What small amount of milling I've done has been with either a 2100 Homelite or an SP 125 McCulloch,both are second to none in the power and grunt department.Milling even with these huge saws makes them work real hard.It most likely would have caused a lesser saw to die on the vine.

I certainly am not trying to discourage anybody who wants to mill with a chainsaw .My suggestion however is to try a little first before you lay out a bunch of cash for equipment you may in time dread to use.In other words,look before you leap.

 

[andrethegiant70]

All good posts there... I'll just toss in my 2 cents and add that a 372/440 would work for occasional milling, but more than that and you'll shorten the life of the saws. It'd be a shame to burn up those models, they are too valuable for doing other chainsaw tasks and it would be a very expensive mistake. My first milling saw was a 100cc McCulloch 550 that I got for 50 bucks off EBAY (I would not recommend it for the alaskan, though, the gas and oil caps are not in the right place). It was cheap and worked very well, actually. Once I had some of the bugs worked out and decided that it was really something I wanted to do (these guys are not kidding, it is hard, filthy work), I bought the biggest saw I could reasonably afford.

80cc is my minimum for milling, but even then you'd better stick to the 16 inch wood. Once you've exceeded the saw's realisitc capability, you get onto a slippery slope.... the slower you go, the harder you're inclined to push the saw, the harder you push, the hotter the saw gets....until... scorch!!

Wait for the right saw, plan well for your milling, make sure the saw is a tad rich, and keep the chain razor sharp. Welcome to milling!

Oh, there is a millling section of this site. There is a ton of great reading there.

 

[chainsawjunky]

What part of Iowa are you in?

Evan

 

[chainsawjunky]

I haven't absolutely ruled out a Husky, but the ones I looked yesterday at seemed fragile and sloppily built. 455 Rancher, and a smaller one. I don't intend to drop my saw, but it would be nice if I could without having to order parts.

Did I mention I just came in from push mowing an acre lot that isn't flat, with my little Lawnboy push mower? Parts fell off my low hours Husky lawn tractor and went under the mower deck while running.......... again!!!! Parts are not handy, it's very hot and humid today. Probably a bad day to sell me a Husky saw

O and stay away from that 455 rancher slop. It's worth nothin. Buy from an actual husky or stihl dealer whichever you choose.

Evan

 

[Lorax1]

What part of Iowa are you in?

Evan

Quad Cities, on the IL border very near Davenport/Moline.

Thanks again to everyone for the advice. I am going to like this place. I'll have to read up so I can get a complete list of all the older saws appropriate for the task. I know it's hard work. I've never considered any work done with a chainsaw to be simple. Worth it to me though. I have some nice woodworking tools, and hardwood prices are pretty crazy.

 

[SawTroll]

O and stay away from that 455 rancher slop. It's worth nothin. Buy from an actual husky or stihl dealer whichever you choose.

Evan

:jawdrop: :jawdrop: The 455 would be my absolutely last choise in the Husky line-up, but still preferable to the Stihl MS290...... I think....

 

[chainsawjunky]

Quad Cities, on the IL border very near Davenport/Moline.

Thanks again to everyone for the advice. I am going to like this place. I'll have to read up so I can get a complete list of all the older saws appropriate for the task. I know it's hard work. I've never considered any work done with a chainsaw to be simple. Worth it to me though. I have some nice woodworking tools, and hardwood prices are pretty crazy.

I'm over in Moline. If you're thinking about getting a stihl you might want to head over to Vermeer Midwest in East Moline out by the Quad City downs if you're over that way sometime. They're a pretty good saw shop, it seems that they carry the full line of saws, I've never actually checked. I don't know about their service department(I think you said you would do the work yourself though) but they get parts for me pretty fast. If I get my order in before noon it'll be in in 2 days(usually) otherwise it's three if you get it in after noon. If you want to go over there PM me for address and business hours or you can look on there website(not sure what it is).

O and I don't know how much they know about milling. They tend to handle a lot of tree companies and don't know if they've ever milled or not.

Evan

 

[IndyIan]

I've done some alaskan milling with my 372. 16" Hardwood is not very fun to go through. 16" White Pine was much faster and if you mill a 12" cant, making boards actually went quite well. The hardwoods were a deal breaker for me though, too slow and makes the saw and me work too hard.

I don't know your situation but for me I can accumulate enough logs to make it worth while to bring in a portable sawmiller.

Also for the weekend warrior a 372 can get pretty heavy if you are limbing lots of little trees. I can't really imagine have a 395 or something bigger as my only saw.