Chunking down question

[Greener]

When chunking down a straight pole (free falling without rigging), such as conifers, do you guys use face/diagonal cuts like in standard felling or do you cut it straight through and push it off? Is diameter of the trunk a main considereration here, or the size of the drop zone, etc? Thanks. (Go easy on rookie boy here.)

 

[sgreanbeans]

Snap cuts on the stuff I can handle, notches on the bigger stuff. Notches, a tag line and sticks in the cut on the BIG stuff. Throwing a couple little twigs in the back cut as you get close to the holding wood keeps the chunk from sitting down on your bar.

 

[troythetreeman]

right, drop zone size is a factor, smaller/shorter blocks i can handle i just cut through and push off, or hang onto/balance, return saw to belt and throw off
longer logs more horizontal i snap cut, if they cant come straight down or are closer to vertical i notch, at vertical or against the lean, i put a tag line on and pull
depends where i need them to be and how much room i have
always be absolutely sure your lanyard isnt in the way

 

[mic687]

I carry a wege to stick in the cut so it does not close up on me for the bigger stuff and notch the face. Cutting straight through is not always your best bet as you can loose control of the wood or your saw a snap cut is much better as it allows you more control on where the chunk will land. Diameter does play a part because it is hard to snap BIG stuff.

 

[tree md]

Snap cut is the best for chunking. You always want to make a relief cut when you're chunking large pieces. If not you run the risk of the chunk peeling and jerking you into the tree as it comes off. Believe me, I made that mistake when I was a rookie.

 

[Greener]

Thanks everyone for all the replies. After reading your comments, I think I am pretty right on. I do keep a wedge for the back cuts on big wood and always nip the holding wood on bigger snap cuts. Do any of you guys free fall long chunks with a deep face cut-with no line on it, if the tree is straight?

 

[superjunior]

Do any of you guys free fall long chunks with a deep face cut-with no line on it, if the tree is straight?

I'll do that only if the tree has a lean in the direction I want it to go or small enough for me to push that way. otherwise always a tag line on there. only takes seconds to tie the log off

 

[Greener]

I'll do that only if the tree has a lean in the direction I want it to go or small enough for me to push that way. otherwise always a tag line on there. only takes seconds to tie the log off

Got it. I think I am with you on this. Even if it's a straight pole and the face cut is more than halfway through to account for center of gravity, when it falls it will travel quite a ways out on the fall.

 

[derwoodii]

Snap cuts on the stuff I can handle, notches on the bigger stuff. Notches, a tag line and sticks in the cut on the BIG stuff. Throwing a couple little twigs in the back cut as you get close to the holding wood keeps the chunk from sitting down on your bar.

Blockin snap cuts are grand when they work sweet and PITA when ya think ya got it and it stays put.
An don't ya hate it when you got a nice little twig that fits snug just right, and it falls away with the log :msp_sad: Still its sweet when it stays put and all works like a swizz watch :msp_biggrin:

 

[sgreanbeans]

I'll do that only if the tree has a lean in the direction I want it to go or small enough for me to push that way. otherwise always a tag line on there. only takes seconds to tie the log off

Agreed, if there is even a slight doubt that you can't move it, put a line on it. Takes the "what if" factor out of it.
Bringing down a log at the end of the day is where a lot of mistakes happen, guys are in a hurry to get done and get outa there, take your time and do it right, 5 minutes of prep can save a lifetime of misery. Easy on the wedges, you don't wanna smash that thing in there, puts alot of torque on the holding wood/fibers, smackin a wedge in there can cause it to let go early, why I use sticks, usually I only use wedges for felling. On really big chunks, I will use a wedge, but I am using it to move the wood, not hold the gap for the bar.

 

[tree md]

Another thing I try to do is always make my cuts at waist level with my lanyard slung low. That way you can stand up in your spikes, get high on the log and get maximum leverage when you're pushing the chunk off.

 

[TreeAce]

When doing the snap cuts , which is an over/under I assume, be sure and pull your saw well back or better yet out and back to your saddle before breaking wood free and pushing. Sometimes the wood can grab your bar and take the saw with it. I did that ONCE. With an 084 while I was working in a bucket. My boss was standing right there to...with HO...really sucked.

 

[superjunior]

When doing the snap cuts , which is an over/under I assume, be sure and pull your saw well back or better yet out and back to your saddle before breaking wood free and pushing. Sometimes the wood can grab your bar and take the saw with it. I did that ONCE. With an 084 while I was working in a bucket. My boss was standing right there to...with HO...really sucked.

yes..
I found this out the hard way as well..

 

[Greener]

Another thing I try to do is always make my cuts at waist level with my lanyard slung low. That way you can stand up in your spikes, get high on the log and get maximum leverage when you're pushing the chunk off.

This is good advice. I almost bit off more than I could chew this week when I got greedy and cut a 10 foot chunk (only about 22" diameter luckily). Took a couple tries but I got her pushed off. I really had to stand up high on it though.

Question, I do try to cut closer to my waist as you mention, but do you find that this makes it hard to see into the kerf (after completing the cut) to be sure how much holding wood there is, because the kerf is so far below eye level?

 

[Greener]

When doing the snap cuts , which is an over/under I assume, be sure and pull your saw well back or better yet out and back to your saddle before breaking wood free and pushing. Sometimes the wood can grab your bar and take the saw with it. I did that ONCE. With an 084 while I was working in a bucket. My boss was standing right there to...with HO...really sucked.

Excellent point. Sounds like that was a big tree. Because I am always tied to the tree, I always pull the saw out first before pushing off the chunk. I have had this happen (pinched bar) when free falling wood though, so I generally don't free fall it. I also use a saw lanyard that will break away before I will, for this reason.

 

[Greener]

Agreed, if there is even a slight doubt that you can't move it, put a line on it. Takes the "what if" factor out of it.
Bringing down a log at the end of the day is where a lot of mistakes happen, guys are in a hurry to get done and get outa there, take your time and do it right, 5 minutes of prep can save a lifetime of misery. Easy on the wedges, you don't wanna smash that thing in there, puts alot of torque on the holding wood/fibers, smackin a wedge in there can cause it to let go early, why I use sticks, usually I only use wedges for felling. On really big chunks, I will use a wedge, but I am using it to move the wood, not hold the gap for the bar.

I like to just push a wedge in behind the saw on large diameter chunks-never pound it in, just push it in enough to keep pressure off the bar so I can get all the way through except to leave an inch or so on the other side. Then the important thing is to pull out the wedge before I nip the other side of the holding wood. Then I can push it off. Of course, the bigger the diameter teh shorter my chunks. What do you think?

Can you explain more about exactly how you use the stick method, though. This could be a good approach for me. Thanks, sgreanbeans.

 

[Greener]

right, drop zone size is a factor, smaller/shorter blocks i can handle i just cut through and push off, or hang onto/balance, return saw to belt and throw off
longer logs more horizontal i snap cut, if they cant come straight down or are closer to vertical i notch, at vertical or against the lean, i put a tag line on and pull
depends where i need them to be and how much room i have
always be absolutely sure your lanyard isnt in the way

Troythetreeman. How deep do you go on your snap cuts? I know it depends on the size of the wood, but can you give me an idea?

 

[deevo]

Troythetreeman. How deep do you go on your snap cuts? I know it depends on the size of the wood, but can you give me an idea?

Depending on the size of the wood I usually go in the width of my bar or a bit deeper. Then back cut it 1/2"-1" above it. Usually get a nice clean snap every time (depending on species of tree!) Some may do it a bit different but that has worked for me for years. Gives you time to turn saw off safely and have a lot of control of the wood when snapping it off.
http://www.arboristsite.com/attachments/sherrilltree/113111d1256564103-snap-cut-jpg Treeco posted this a while back (hope link works) In his picture he goes half way thru both sides which will work as well. The way I do it and other guys I climb with do as I described and works for us.

 

[beastmaster]

On bigger diameter wood(trunks) I'll often cut tell I see the piece start to set back, then finish from the other side, cutting down in a 45deg. tell the wood sets down.(a wedge comes in handy) Now the chunk is free so I can slid it around or pick it up to throw. Sometimes I will use a small tire iron to pry the chunk up and over with.
Don't try this with small dia. or top heavy peices. You don't want to lose control of a chunk while your lowing your saw. I also sometimes I will have the groundsman put out a cone for me to aim at if its really a tall spar and small landing zone.
Beastmaster

 

[Greener]

Depending on the size of the wood I usually go in the width of my bar or a bit deeper. Then back cut it 1/2"-1" above it. Usually get a nice clean snap every time (depending on species of tree!) Some may do it a bit different but that has worked for me for years. Gives you time to turn saw off safely and have a lot of control of the wood when snapping it off.
http://www.arboristsite.com/attachments/sherrilltree/113111d1256564103-snap-cut-jpg Treeco posted this a while back (hope link works) In his picture he goes half way thru both sides which will work as well. The way I do it and other guys I climb with do as I described and works for us.

Excellent. I have had trouble getting them to break (hinge) so I just went back to cutting most the way through then nipping the outside of the face. So say on 20-30" diameter, would you keep the face cut about 1/2" above the back cut. And how tall of a chunk would you take in this scenario? Thanks again.