cinching anchor

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I use a bowline with a caribiner with a rope eye , it has been tied on that rope for a year and is soo tight now that I have trouble breaking it ,so It's an ANSI standard and not necessarily the norm
 
Double or triple fishermans loop will solve all your problems. Easy to tie. Errors easy to spot even when tired. "Grabs" your karabiner. Easy to untie by slipping off the karabiner and "rolling" the wraps over the bight. Unlike an anchor hitch, the tail points back up the climbing line.

:cheers:
 
Double or triple fishermans loop will solve all your problems. Easy to tie. Errors easy to spot even when tired. "Grabs" your karabiner. Easy to untie by slipping off the karabiner and "rolling" the wraps over the bight. Unlike an anchor hitch, the tail points back up the climbing line.

:cheers:

Just mastered the DFL last night. Can do it with my eyes closed. Next I need to cut my arm off with my 361 and see if I can still do it.
 
The anchor hitch is the best!

Easy to tie, easy to untie, very compact and easy to visually inspect.

In the traditional climbing system tied three feet or so from the end of the line.....it points right back to the climber and that is another advantage.

It's great for a non-split tail / Blake's hitch rig too the way the rope routes. Ever try the anchor hitch with 3 wraps?
 
That makes sense, I'm old fashion and still using a double D-ring saddle and a locking snap with a bowline (when I climb) I used to use a non locking snap until it came off one of my D-rings when I twisted 180 degrees from my TIP, this was some years ago and pretty scary.

What do you guys think about using a clove hitch with a biner?
 
That makes sense, I'm old fashion and still using a double D-ring saddle and a locking snap with a bowline (when I climb) I used to use a non locking snap until it came off one of my D-rings when I twisted 180 degrees from my TIP, this was some years ago and pretty scary.

What do you guys think about using a clove hitch with a biner?

Have to ask one of the experts here but IMO there's not nearly enough to a clove hitch for lifeline work...
 
That makes sense, I'm old fashion and still using a double D-ring saddle and a locking snap with a bowline (when I climb) I used to use a non locking snap until it came off one of my D-rings when I twisted 180 degrees from my TIP, this was some years ago and pretty scary.

What do you guys think about using a clove hitch with a biner?

Me too old two ring saddle and a bowline in the eye , still used for utilty climbers today , reliable easy to remember..
 
You interested in coming down to help me with a couple jobs TMD?

You perhaps experienced some of that beener flop when you used my asccender. Its a good thing I use good beeners huh? Personally I am more afraid of anything that is not a figure eight knot in that application. I tried to get over it to no avail. Its a standard staple to me but I can see the ANSI rating to be wise. Its just another reason why I stick to plain old taughtline hitches and I would use snaps instead of beeners but they are quite heavy.
You are going to have to send me real info regarding these " jobs" you keep talking about. I can give you the advise you need to price them cause I think you might be setting yourself up to take it on the chin although I don't know. Hauling that chipper down there might allready exceed the limits.
 
That makes sense, I'm old fashion and still using a double D-ring saddle and a locking snap with a bowline (when I climb) I used to use a non locking snap until it came off one of my D-rings when I twisted 180 degrees from my TIP, this was some years ago and pretty scary.

What do you guys think about using a clove hitch with a biner?

I used to clove hitch directly to my double D's, tying my blakes w/ the tail. Worked well. My bro still uses this system. Some guys think the clove will tend to roll but I never had that problem. Or you can forget all that #### and get with the new school, RF. Ya know, when ya get out of your bucket someday. lol
 
That makes sense, I'm old fashion and still using a double D-ring saddle and a locking snap with a bowline (when I climb) I used to use a non locking snap until it came off one of my D-rings when I twisted 180 degrees from my TIP, this was some years ago and pretty scary.

What do you guys think about using a clove hitch with a biner?

Insanity!

Of course it will always hold until you don't have the tail tied off with the friction hitch. If you do something like climb a tree and let your ground men belay you while your tail is not secured, you are essentially unsecured. Even then, it might roll a little on that little carabiner. The diameter of the 'biner is less than the diameter of the rope, so it's ability to hold is limited.

It would be completely unsafe for a split tail system.
 
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It's great for a non-split tail / Blake's hitch rig too the way the rope routes. Ever try the anchor hitch with 3 wraps?

No...that extra turn just weakens the line more...every knot or turn in a line adds weakness...knots that are proven to work have been tested and evaluated here there and yonder and their properties are known..that ring bend or fishermens bend or anchor hitch..whatever you want to call it works just fine the way it is.....It is called an anchor hitch not because of climbing application, but because it was used to bend hawser cable to anchor rings or chain shots for mooring sailing ships...:cheers:
 
Insanity!

Of course it will always hold until you don't have the tail tied off with the friction hitch. If you do something like climb a tree and let your ground men belay you while your tail is not secured, you are essentially unsecured. Even then, it might roll a little on that little carabiner. The diameter of the 'biner is less than the diameter of the rope, so it's ability to hold is limited.

It would be completely unsafe for a split tail system.

I was taught to rappel this way. way back when...makes me cringe to remember looking down and seeing the rope spinning under me....:censored:
 
Cinching knots only: nonsense!

I got to thinking about the recommendation by Antsy [ANSI] to only use cinching knots so as to prevent escape of the knot from the carabiner and to prevent improper loading. While the recommendation is a good idea, and it reduces the probability of those errors, I don't see it as a necessary requirement. Here is why:

Spliced eyes are generally considered superior attachments to a carabiner than any knot, and they do not cinch down at all. Therefore, the cinching requirement cannot be considered a primary concern in the safety of any knot that serves the same purpose as a spliced eye.

Since many of the various knots available are equally reliable, there is no reason not to learn a good cinching knot. On the other hand, if you happen to be "knot-disabled", and learning to do a triple fisherman is a challenge for you, then you had better stick to what you know is safe. If you only know a bowline, and you do it right every time, then perhaps you should stick with that.

My personal opinion is that "knot-disabled" persons should learn a less dangerous trade.
 
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I got to thinking about the recommendation by Antsy [ANSI] to only use cinching knots so as to prevent escape of the knot from the carabiner and to prevent improper loading. While the recommendation is a good idea, and it reduces the probability of those errors, I don't see it as a necessary requirement. Here is why:

Spliced eyes are generally considered superior attachments to a carabiner than any knot, and they do not cinch down at all. Therefore, the cinching requirement cannot be considered a primary concern in the safety of any knot that serves the same purpose as a spliced eye.

Since many of the various knots available are equally reliable, there is no reason not to learn a good cinching knot. On the other hand, if you happen to be "knot-disabled", and learning to do a triple fisherman is a challenge for you, then you had better stick to what you know is safe. If you only know a bowline, and you do it right every time, then perhaps you should stick with that.

My personal opinion is that "knot-disabled" persons should learn a less dangerous trade.

In other words, people who can't tie knots are "knot smart".
 
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