compensating for lean

[Blowdown1]

Is there any specific approach to use to determine how to compensate for minor lean when felling? I know cutting the notch in the direction of fall, leaving extra hinge wood to pull it away from the lean, etc. But how do you gauge just how much or what compensation to use?

I have a loblolly (~60-70' tall) that is dead and needs to come down. It leans maybe 5 degrees and I want to drop it about 35-45 degrees away from where it is leaning.

 

[Lawn Masters]

and here I thought this was about compensating for lean running conditions. someone here has more experience than I do with felling trees in a direction other than the way they're leaning. I dont know too much about that, and dont claim to either, I leave it to the people who know how to safely remove them.

 

[bugfart]

What I have learned here are two (+) points I feel are paramount.

1) Judge the symmetry of the tree. If it has some lop-sided heavy looking growth, you had better consider this, and you will do well to take your time and look at this.
2) I followed fantastic advise and hired a pro. He went about my problem way differently than my dangerously quick, feel-good plan.
2b) If you are as thick as the tree make sure you have 2 escape routes and be willing to abandon your saw.


You can have a degree in physics from MIT but these guys have experience.

 

[Blowdown1]

Believe me, I've been thinking plenty about this stuff. The crown is pretty uniform so I think it will be pretty predictable. Even if it fell in the direction of lean it wouldn't damage anything other than to hit a few limbs on a tree ~50 feet away.

I'll be using wedges to help things go where I want them as well.

 

[Dadatwins]

Be careful relying on wedges in dead pine, wedges need hinge wood to work properly and dead pine usually does not have enough. I would suggest getting a rope in it and pulling it over. just my opinion.

 

[Newfie]

I'll second dada's warning about trying to wedge and steer a leaner using dead wood fiber. The line in the tree may snap the top out but you will no longer be in the danger zone as you would be if you were wedging and watching the hinge fail and the tree come back at you.

 

[Mike Barcaskey]

wedges
rope
reduction of weight on the leaning side
piecing it out

other than a crane, that's it

 

[pyromaniac guy]

whenever we (father-in-law and i) have to fell a leaner and drop it where it doesn't naturally want to go, we use all of the above methods plus one of us always looks out for the other. whoever is not cutting is the lookout man. if things go wrong or the tree starts leaning the wrong way, the lookout taps the cutter on the back and both get outta there

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Use a triangle hinge. Make the hinge wider on the uphill side.
Cut the back hinge to the downhill side as far as you dare, and then continue the cut towards you until the tree moves.

 

[bugfart]

Mike, could you please explain a triangle hinge?
You have me intrigued.

 

[Blowdown1]

I think he is talking about what I mentioned in my first post; making a wedge-shaped hinge (looking down on the stump essentially) so that instead of a hinge of equal thickness you leave more wood on the side of the hinge where you want the tree to fall. There is more holding wood so it pulls in that direction.

That was partly the reason of my post; I'm not sure how much that impacts the direction versus placing the notch in the area of desired direction to fall and how they work in conjunction.

 

[wagonwheeler]

Several times in the past and recenlty for 2 leaners - one a 80' dead pine, the other a water oak w/ all limbs on the wrong side - I've employed my Landcruiser, winch, snatchblock and extra strapping to keep my truck well out of the danger zone.

I'm sure this adds nothing to cutting technique, but it sure makes a difference to have several tons of persuasion...

Chaser

 

[PWB]

I'd hesitate to use something as small as a landcruiser for that (yes I know what they are my brother has had 3, one of which I built a new tub for). At work (and at home) we use a road grader. The one I run at work weighs 32000 lbs, one at home about 26000.

 

[wagonwheeler]

I agree they're very light and require chaining off to a good anchor.
Saves my brakes and driveline from the strain.

Wouldn't tackle any big trees with it and I wouldn't tackle any big trees myself from a felling standpoint anyway - that's what my local tree service is for. He's got the expericence, climbers, bucket trucks, and ability to haul off all the debris. We've used him plenty over the years and are happy to do it again.

Plus I take such good care of my Cruiser I'd never want anyting bad to happen to it...

Chaser

Well, one picture is not me anyway... :angel:

 

[smokechase II]

Caveat:
The rope thing. If you decide to pull it with a vehicle, toward the vehicle. We'd like photos.
If you decide to pull it toward the vehicle with a very long rope and the tree goes over backwards pulling stuff off the vehicle. We'd like photos.
If you have "blue stained Pine", you may have good enough wood to work with to get that 35-40 degree lean. But if it’s gone beyond blue stain and is soft or spongy or rotten. We'd like photos.
In regard to wagonwheeler's post above. Always remember to rule. If someone asks the question, "Should we move the vehicle?" The answer is always yes. So I'm asking, should you move all vehicles nearby?
Can't move the house. Bring in a bonded pro.
The triangle thing is referring to the holding wood being left to help ‘pull’ a tree to that side. If the wood is dead and still solid you can be fooled. Green wood completes the pull far better than dead.