Cook's bandroller.....

[deeker]

Here tomorrow the 28th!!!!

Finally....and we are expecting a big storm....so...I will be very studious in the bad weather...

Will I have to forfeit my man card for reading and watching instructions and the DVD???

Bands.....beware.....your gonna get flattened!!!!

Kevin

 

[redprospector]

Here tomorrow the 28th!!!!

Finally....and we are expecting a big storm....so...I will be very studious in the bad weather...

Will I have to forfeit my man card for reading and watching instructions and the DVD???

Bands.....beware.....your gonna get flattened!!!!

Kevin

Don't worry Kevin, a real man knows when to look at the directions, and when to just dive in.

Andy

 

[deeker]

Don't worry Kevin, a real man knows when to look at the directions, and when to just dive in.

Andy

Kinda sorta what she said....a time or two....

 

[deeker]

I watched the promo DVD and liked what I saw. (pun??) Does the DVD sent with the roller have more information???

I hope it does.

What do you think of Tim Cook's theroy of the band vs the knot. That the knot is just as hard from top to bottom or back to front....
And a straight cutting blade will go through the knot....straight.

I believe he is right.

 

[redprospector]

From what I've seen with my bands he's right.
I just got through planing some Sugar Pine, some was from before I got the band roller and some from after I got it. Generally I set the knives a little high and take down the high spots. When I got to the stuff cut with a flat band I found very few high spots in any of the boards. That means a lot when planing by yourself.

Did you get it yet?

Andy

 

[deeker]

I am learning how to use it, I need a bigger shop. Also need a bit less rain and snow....

I seem to be cutting a LOT of spruce logs. Mostly 20-30"x 17', and noticed that my unrolled blades would rise or dive around the knots.
With the usual advice to slow down...which did not work. Bought Cook's super sharp and sent my old one to Cook's to be rolled flat.

I was shocked at how much difference there was. Knots are now cut straight through. Less planing and sanding!!!

Watched the DVD, lots of information. And since a blade does not have a brain...how would it know where "it is softer to cut"?

A knot is hard for the entire knot, with compressed wood around it too.
A straight blade cuts straight through the knot. End of story.

Kevin

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I have been milling a LOT of white pine, some of it pretty knotty, 8' and longer. I came to a log that was 7' long, and just milled it into 5/4 like all the "others" and piled it by the shop to get it out of my way.

A couple days ago, a friend asked if i had any 5, 6' boards around, and of course i thought of that 7' pile i had by the shop. He asked if i'd plane it for him, so yesterday my nephue was here, and said he'd help me.

For a test, i set the planer light for the first cut, to see just how "uneven" that lumber was, and my nephue was amazed, as the whole pile was within the 1/32" accuracy my mill is advertised to have! Dang, even i was surprised how board after board was VERY even in thickness, even though it was knotty.

NOW, my experience is, my bands cut VERY good untill i sharpen them 8 to 10 times, and then they just don't want to cut to my satisfaction no matter how i sharpen them. BUT, i feel i already got the BEST out of that band by then anyway...

Rob

 

[redprospector]

I have been milling a LOT of white pine, some of it pretty knotty, 8' and longer. I came to a log that was 7' long, and just milled it into 5/4 like all the "others" and piled it by the shop to get it out of my way.

A couple days ago, a friend asked if i had any 5, 6' boards around, and of course i thought of that 7' pile i had by the shop. He asked if i'd plane it for him, so yesterday my nephue was here, and said he'd help me.

For a test, i set the planer light for the first cut, to see just how "uneven" that lumber was, and my nephue was amazed, as the whole pile was within the 1/32" accuracy my mill is advertised to have! Dang, even i was surprised how board after board was VERY even in thickness, even though it was knotty.

NOW, my experience is, my bands cut VERY good untill i sharpen them 8 to 10 times, and then they just don't want to cut to my satisfaction no matter how i sharpen them. BUT, i feel i already got the BEST out of that band by then anyway...

Rob

Just imagine how you'd feel if you could get another 8 - 10 sharpenings out of those blades, with the same or better performance that you got for the first 8 - 10 sharpenings.

Andy

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Maybe? I'm not convinced just yet. $800 bucks buys a LOT of bands for a guy like me, as i don't mill full time...

Rob

 

[deeker]

Maybe? I'm not convinced just yet. $800 bucks buys a LOT of bands for a guy like me, as i don't mill full time...

Rob

I do, now I will be sharpening for 3 other local mills in Utah. A woodmizer, Log Master and a home made one. Besides my NorwoodLM2000.

Kevin

 

[TraditionalTool]

Rob might not be convinced, but I'm convinced that it could pay for itself.

I do agree with Rob, $800 is a lot of clams to toss over for a roller, that's a tough pill to swallow when blades cost about $20 to the door. I got my Cooks blades for about $16 to the door on Cooks sale recently.

Lots of ways to look at it, and I don't think Kevin could justify it without trying to sell the service out to others, or he wouldn't be looking to do so. Maybe I'm wrong. I think it could easily pay for itself if you get a lot of clients that use your service.

A less expensive bead roller could be a good alternative, jury's out on that still.

 

[redprospector]

Rob might not be convinced, but I'm convinced that it could pay for itself.

I do agree with Rob, $800 is a lot of clams to toss over for a roller, that's a tough pill to swallow when blades cost about $20 to the door. I got my Cooks blades for about $16 to the door on Cooks sale recently.

Lots of ways to look at it, and I don't think Kevin could justify it without trying to sell the service out to others, or he wouldn't be looking to do so. Maybe I'm wrong. I think it could easily pay for itself if you get a lot of clients that use your service.

A less expensive bead roller could be a good alternative, jury's out on that still.

Kevin said in another thread that he had 80 to 100 blades that needed to be rolled. If he has 80, and they cost $20 each new the band roller just paid for itself, and paid kevin $800 for rolling them.
The less expensive bead roller will probably work, but guides will have to be made and mounted, and everything figured out on your own. A full time sawyer will have to ask himself what his time is worth. Can he make more than $800 in the same amount of time it would take to pay for a bead roller and remanufacture it to flatten bands, and figure out how to do it? Will the product he fab's up be of equal quality to the Cook's band roller?
I went through all this several years ago with a tooth setter. The one I built worked, but was slow & miserable to use. I wound up buying a single tooth setter for (I think) $350, after I had spent 2 day's building one, and a year fighting what I built. The 2 day's I spent building it would have more than paid for the one I bought.

Andy

 

[redprospector]

Maybe? I'm not convinced just yet. $800 bucks buys a LOT of bands for a guy like me, as i don't mill full time...

Rob

Rob, it does work. If you're not milling full time then it is something you'll have to justify to yourself. 8 to 10 sharpenings was all I was getting out of a band, when I got my band roller I dug 10 or so blades out of the trash pile, cleaned them up a little and rolled them. 2 of those trash blades are still cutting good, the rest broke after another 8 to 12 sharpenings. The band roller at least doubled the usefull life of those blades I had thrown away.
$800 is a lot of money, but so is only getting half the use of your blades.

Andy

 

[deeker]

Update!!!

No yawwwwnnnning!!!

After a bit of trial and error, more trial and a lot of error. I have it figured out. Took a bit of practice...but the band roller...is working very well.

Before I ordered it, I had a big truck load of willow logs. The blades I was using were on their 10th to 15th sharpening. I usually set the teeth every fourth sharpening.

Well, these blades and the willow did not see eye to eye. They kept rising.
After I figured out the roller.....now they cut straight. And I mean very straight.

Very pleased with it. And I have been rolling/sharpening/setting bandsaw blades for other millers for over a month and a half.
They are also happy with the results.

Rolled them ( so far ) for LogMaster, Cook's, Woodmizer, Norwood and a couple of home built mills.

It was worth the purchase.

Pictures soon.

Kevin