crack question

[powerking]

So I'm very new to the milling process, and yesterday I milled down a 2.5" thick piece of black walnut that I want to make a simple table out of, but last time I milled down some black walnut, i had a big problem with it cracking even though I was told to coat it with Linseed oil. Any advice on how to stop it from cracking so quickly?
Thanks
Rich

 

[mikeb1079]

what did you mill it out of? a log or a bigger slab? seems like you're saying that it's cracking on the cut face which sounds like it's drying out too fast. where was it kept after you cut it?

 

[smokinj]

Walnut I use parafane on the ends and beewax on the top, bottom and sides. If you need to fix cracks butterfly joints are cool or super glue makes a nice tight repair.

 

[xdmp22]

I generally stay away from crack, its to addictive, I stick to POT, its cheaper anyway.


Oh wait, I should have read the OP rather than just the thread title.

Sorry about that......carry on

 

[powerking]

Mike, I milled it out of a log. was cut in June of last year and was kept behind a shed which didnt really get much sun. I'm just trying to figure out what I should use to hinder the face cut from cracking...
Thanks
Rich

 

[Timberframed]

I'm not a plumber so I can't really help with your problem. All jokes aside some semi hardwoods/hardwoods are going to crack and check no matter what you do. Kinda depends on how it grew and what was in the soil (iron, silica, phosphates) and so on.

 

[powerking]

Here is her picture a little cleaned up today...about 2.75" thick....View attachment 192306

 

[mikeb1079]

ok...from the pic it looks like its split a bit in the middle and some on the far edge. after seeing that pic i would tend to agree with timberframed in this case it probably has more to do with where this wood was located in the log and how it grew (internal stress?) than the drying. when i was new to milling i had this same experience with some black cherry i milled. a bunch of slabs split down the middle and at the ends and i figured it was something i had done wrong. i've since learned that in some cases there ain't much you can do about it. my guess is that it's this particular log and that you'll have better luck in the future. plus, you can usually work with the splits when it comes time to use that wood. ie butterfly keys, rip down the split and re-glue, edge it off, etc.....

 

[TraditionalTool]

i had a big problem with it cracking even though I was told to coat it with Linseed oil. Any advice on how to stop it from cracking so quickly?

Wow, who told you that...that must have BEEN ON CRACK...I can't see how linseed oil would prevent checks from forming. I would think it better to put anchor seal or latex paint on the ends...my $0.02...

Bailey's sells some that they brand themselves.

 

[powerking]

TradionalTool....I agree!!LOL I will go the latex route!
Thanks for all of everyones info! Long Live the Arboristsite group!
Rich

 

[TraditionalTool]

TradionalTool....I agree!!LOL I will go the latex route!
Thanks for all of everyones info! Long Live the Arboristsite group!
Rich

Rich,

OTOH, if you do rub it with linseed, make sure to give it a nice massage, that way it will be nice to you for years to come! oke:

That said, linseed oil couldn't make it crack any worse, even if it doesn't help much, the wood will look great!

 

[smokinj]

Here is her picture a little cleaned up today...about 2.75" thick....View attachment 192306

Thats nice Wax it! On Black Walnut go the extra mile!

 

[discounthunter]

moisture is a woods worst enemy.when storing wood ,seal the ends as soon as its cut. latex paint is cheap and works. you said this was stored behind a shed?(outside?) this means the wood aclimated to the outside moisture level . as a rule wood dries at about one inch per year in a controlled enviroment.i would recommend if you are going to do woodworking ,to store your wood for at least a year inside a garage or shed. i store a lot of mine in the rafters of my garage,the heat in the summer acts like a kiln.

btw nice piece of walnut even with the cracks.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

TradionalTool....I agree!!LOL I will go the latex route!
Thanks for all of everyones info! Long Live the Arboristsite group!
Rich

If that slab means anything to you, skip the paint and buy Anchorseal! No comparison between the two... BUT, it will still probably crack someplace... That's why someone invented laminateing wood.

Rob

 

[rarefish383]

I bought the Anchor Seal. I was surprised how little it takes to cover a cut. Is one coat enough? If one coat will seal it up a gallon will go a long way. It was 30 some dollars and at the rate it goes on, I think, it's well worth the extra money over a gallon of latex, Joe.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

The wood grain needs to be filled, if it isn't then it needs another coat...

Anchorseal is GREAT stuff, but sometimes wood cracks, and nothing will stop it.

Rob

 

[Rusty-880]

Some of the slabs I've cut have cracked full length while on the mill. Follows just behind the bar at the cutting speed. It is cracking not just opening up something already there. With some timbers its just a given that they will always near the heart and minor cracks in the ends of the outer slabs.

 

[smokinj]

View attachment 192817View attachment 192818

Here is the way I keep my Black walnut from cracking...Lots of extra work but a great finnished product!

 

[powerking]

smokinj....what did you use on the face of that?
Rich

 

[gemniii]

View attachment 192817View attachment 192818

Here is the way I keep my Black walnut from cracking...Lots of extra work but a great finnished product!

That's great looking wood, whether your Finnish or American

Has anyone tried banding the ends as well as sealing them for the more valuable wood?

I'm thinking of the plastic strap banding like you get around cardboard boxes, with protective standoffs.