Cracked Limb Gets Reduced

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treeseer

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Big white oak I was in 3 hrs (bliss!) yesterday cleaning and pruning to clear house and magnolia nearby. pic #1 is a fairly recent-looking crack--from Isabel in 03?-- in a vertical lead above and below the fork of a side limb that goes over the house. Similar crack across from it on other side.

Bracing would have been an option, and I guess if I looked hard enough I could've found a cabling angle too. I went with reducing end weight on the side limb-a lot- and the vertical-a little. Pic #2 shows a typical location for a reduction cut, removing the sprawling downward part and making the upright part the new end. (thanks ekka or whoever for sizing brightening and line-drawing. Pretty presumptuous of me I know, but there ya go! :)

IMO the upright grew in vitality in response to the movement of the sprawling part. Cutting to that upright seems to anticipate nature, in that the sprawling part was prone to breakage. note change in taper. It also leaves a lot of leaves that are growing toward the sun, so while loss of biomass is significant, loss of photosynthetic potential may not be so much. THis portion of the tree was not greatly missed, as it cleared the roof extra, and put some sun on the windows and the foundation plantings.

Pic #3 shows the clearance of the tree from the house; pretty radical-looing, but I always look not at the present appearance but how it will be after some regrowth. Client liked the look, even without that explanation. Sorry for lack of before pic. Midsummer seems to be a good time for this work since the trees have made most of their food for the year. Whaddya think?

see treeco's post below for smaller pics
 
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I think some bracing would be good here, white oak is pretty decay resistant, and you can inspect the tree every several years.

I find nothing wrong with the reduction, I do that on a regular basis. Allso you will not have a lot of sprouting around the wound. Though Q. alba does not do that too much anyways.

with that long shear crack, I'd be a bit more comfortable with running some light threaded rod through it.
 
An ISA Board Certified Master Arborist should know better than to prune a Q. alba at this time of year. :p
 
Tree's in Richmond VA; no wilt there or in NC that I know of. Though you're right, Husky, I should check before making more wounds in any kind of oaks. If I screw up I'll just have to send my BCMA card in... :eek:

JPS you're right; I may run a couple of rods in there when I go back up next weekend.
 
John Paul Sanborn said:
It is the red subgenus that is so suseptable to wilt. Has it got down to NC yet?
What's a subgenus? Did you mean specie's?
White Oaks get wilt all the time. Look at Brian Huddleson's site, he tests positive Oak Wilt on White Oaks quite often.

As for reducing this branch, seems like a good idea in this case. A branch that tore up might end up needing removal in years to come. This is a good time to apply Gilman's ideas about subordinating a limb and setting it up for possible future removal. This will slow the growth and hopefully a stronger branch collar will form because of this growth rate differential between it and the limb it's attached to.
Reduction is also somewhat in line with Wulkie's ideas about slow limb removal and allowing the tree time to set itself up for future loss of the limb. By reducing it, you force the limb to use energy reserves and weaken it to the point of death or near death, stunting it, if you will, to the point it slowly subordinates or dies.
All this is very different from reducing a whole tree, like your pine, unless the plan is to remove the tree at a future point.
Any reduction that just lightens the load short term, does nothing good. The reason is to lighten, yet it grows right back after huge energy loss, along with exposure to disease and decay. You can claim weight redistribution, but if you could put a scale on the tree before and a few years later, I doubt you could make a difference that would eliminate the need for a cable and/or bracing.
The addition of a properly installed cable system should make the tree as strong as a tree without a defect, thereby eliminating the need for reduction.
If you're just reducing for symmetry, which I believe is actually the case as we've seen in other pictures of White Pines you've posted and we talked about, then reduce away, but don't say it's to make the tree stronger.
 
Mike Maas said:
What's a subgenus? Did you mean specie's?

Alsso refered to as groups

the red/black oak subgenus - Erythrobalanus

white oak subgenus - Leucobalanus

http://www.dogpile.com/info.dogpl/search/web/Erythrobalanus+Leucobalanus

I'm not saying that white does not get it, but that it can resist the pathogen, and the wounding is minimal.

Another interesting oak fact is that chestnut blight has been found in a saprophytic stage in red oaks, causing it to be endemic to the area.
 

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