Craftsman 20", 3.3 ci. in. Carb. Lines Help Needed

[jake101]

Craftsman 3.3 cu. in, 20" chainsaw (358.356331)
I need help replacing the fuel lines on this saw. The saw uses a HDA-49 carburetor. Both lines have disintegrated and are physically gone. I know that the connection on the side of the carb. goes to the fuel tank and that should be an easy fix. However I have no idea where the connection at the top of the carb. should connect. I believe this is known as an "impulse connection". I believe that the same size tubing (3/16" OD, 3/32" ID) is used for both connections, but I would like that confirmed if possible. Any help would be appreciated!

 

[Chevboy0167]

This may help...

 

[jake101]

Thanks for the diagram. This saw does NOT have a primer bulb and there are only two openings in the tank. One is for the feed to the carb. and the other is the vent. The connection to the other port on the HDA-49 carb must go somewhere, the question is: where? Thanks again for your response.

 

[Chevboy0167]

OK... hmmm. It shows to cross over to a Poulan 2800 saw. The diagram shows the top line has the filter from fuel tank. Then the bottom line is the impulse to the crankcase nipple it seems? Look here at items 92, 93, 105 and 179.


https://www.partstree.com/models/2800-poulan-chainsaw/external-power-unit-1/

 

[jake101]

I am 99% sure that the saw was made by Poulon and I was told it was similar to the Poulon 2800, so you may be spot on with that. The HDA49 has a port on the left side, (looking at the carb from the back of the saw in the normal, upright position) and a second port at the top of the carb on the right side. I'm quite certain that the side port is the fuel input, and the one on the top is for some other function, perhaps as a fuel pump? I am at a total loss as to where I need to connect that top port to. You mention a crankcase nipple, and that seems like a possibility, but do you know exactly where that would be located and how much more disassembly might be needed to get at it? Thanks again!

 

[Stihl-Pioneer]

The top port goes through a hole behind the carb and connects to a nipple just below the cylinder. It is the pulse line. I would recommend using a rubber type line for this instead of tygon. Tygon can be used but seems to degrade quicker and isn’t as heat resistant.

 

[jake101]

Thanks, Stihl-Pioneer. That makes sense to me. Should I assume that the carb. has to be pulled to find the nipple where the line gets attached? Do you know if both lines are the same size (3/16" OD, 3/32" ID)? I was wanting to use tygon, hoping it would not degrade as fast but I'll go with rubber for the pulse line, if you feel it will last longer. Would most shops have both types? Thanks, again!

 

[Stihl-Pioneer]

I like the Echo brand hose. I use the 3mmx5mm for the fuel and vent line which you may have to open the holes in the tank just a smidge, I do. I like the 3mmx6mm for the pulse because it’s a touch thicker. You can use the 5mm for all three though.

 

[jake101]

Thanks, again Stihl-Pioneer! One more thing, does the carb. have to come all of the way out to find the cylinder nipple?

 

[TRTermite]

I like the Echo brand hose. I use the 3mmx5mm for the fuel and vent line which you may have to open the holes in the tank just a smidge, I do. I like the 3mmx6mm for the pulse because it’s a touch thicker. You can use the 5mm for all three though.

No intention of derailing this thread, just to expand it a bit. The Echo line - small is 90014 and large is 90015 , somewhere I read that some of the knockoff stuff doesn't hold up well either.
A question for @Stihl-Pioneer or any one - I have a Jonsered 2095 that uses a straight hose for impulse and it is a fairly straight run (No sharp bends). Have you had any issues using echo line as a replacement impulse line..? If sharp bends are in the routing would the Echo Line still be a good option? I was kind of skittish with the idea on previous occasions/saws and played it safe with OEM .. A bit of reassurance or advice would be helpful. Thanks OP for starting this thread.

 

[Stihl-Pioneer]

You don’t really have to completely remove the carb but you will need to loosen it up and lift it up a little as the hole is directly behind the carb so you can fish it through. I would use the Echo brand not the knock offs if you can. When you take the top cover off you will see the impulse nipple right near the base of the cylinder.

 

[Stihl-Pioneer]

No intention of derailing this thread, just to expand it a bit. The Echo line - small is 90014 and large is 90015 , somewhere I read that some of the knockoff stuff doesn't hold up well either.
A question for @Stihl-Pioneer or any one - I have a Jonsered 2095 that uses a straight hose for impulse and it is a fairly straight run (No sharp bends). Have you had any issues using echo line as a replacement impulse line..? If sharp bends are in the routing would the Echo Line still be a good option? I was kind of skittish with the idea on previous occasions/saws and played it safe with OEM .. A bit of reassurance or advice would be helpful. Thanks OP for starting this thread.

I haven’t been using the Echo brand for to long, only a couple years. Before that I was using Tygon for fuel and usually the oem line if I can get it for the impulse. I now use the Echo for both and don’t worry about the oem unless it’s a very specialized hose (bends) and is still available. You really have to make a wicked tight bend to kink the Echo hose, that’s why I use the heavier wall so it resists kinks better.

 

[TRTermite]

I haven’t been using the Echo brand for to long, only a couple years. Before that I was using Tygon for fuel and usually the oem line if I can get it for the impulse. I now use the Echo for both and don’t worry about the oem unless it’s a very specialized hose (bends) and is still available. You really have to make a wicked tight bend to kink the Echo hose, that’s why I use the heavier wall so it resists kinks better.

I hoped you would share your experiences with the Echo Hose as impulse hoses. Thanks.

 

[Stihl-Pioneer]

I hoped you would share your experiences with the Echo Hose as impulse hoses. Thanks.

So far so good. Kevin (RedneckChainsawRepair) uses it too and has good luck.

 

[Captain Bruce]

I am 99% sure that the saw was made by Poulon and I was told it was similar to the Poulon 2800, so you may be spot on with that. The HDA49 has a port on the left side, (looking at the carb from the back of the saw in the normal, upright position) and a second port at the top of the carb on the right side. I'm quite certain that the side port is the fuel input, and the one on the top is for some other function, perhaps as a fuel pump? I am at a total loss as to where I need to connect that top port to. You mention a crankcase nipple, and that seems like a possibility, but do you know exactly where that would be located and how much more disassembly might be needed to get at it? Thanks again!

Go find the parts diagram, and identify the carb.......you assume its oem. If is, the same diagrams will show the hose routing.

As a sidebar, why does one spend time on a Craftsman/Poulan anything. Those are dixie cup units.....

 

[Smitty Smithsonite]

Tygon sucks. Use Tygothane / Versilon C-210-A formulation. It lasts FOREVER, even submerged in fuel.

I've had this stuff on my '74 Yamaha RD350's oil injection lines for 10 years now. Still flexible and leak free. The clearness becomes a bronze color with time in fuel - that's it!

https://www.mcmaster.com/versilon-c-210-a-tubing/

 

[Stihl-Pioneer]

Go find the parts diagram, and identify the carb.......you assume its oem. If is, the same diagrams will show the hose routing.

As a sidebar, why does one spend time on a Craftsman/Poulan anything. Those are dixie cup units.....

This unit he has is a mag cased professional type saw that will hold its own. It’s not a throw away saw.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Depending on tank you have. One hole in it is tank vent in front, other fuel line to carb, back one. Later tank had tank vent on side with only 1 hole on top for fuel line.

Top of carb to back of crankcase impulse line. Make sure it is good too. The crack and crumble and then air leak.

Hopefully some of pics of ones below help you.

Echo OEM black line. Best. 3x6 best for impulse and 3x5 for fuel line and tank vent with new duckbill.

Tygon 4040 for fuel line or tank vent in pinch, if dont have a choice and make sure marked as such and not a fake. OK

Fakes - Horrible.

 

[Okie]

Quite often using the Poulan model number (not so much the craftsman model number) you can search for a you tube video and find info, (videos) about how to Poulan fuel line replacement. (Poulans plus several others) Sometimes you just have to watch video's until you see a video of a saw that looks like yours.
AND some of them little Poulans, especially the 25 series are really well built, roller bearings and made for everyday use. I've got some of the S25 series Poulans that I use in the woodlot as trim saws with a standard 16 inch bar, saws are probably 40 years old and all I've had to do is replace fuel line, gas tank cap duckbill, and replace chains every once in awhile. Really reliable and lots of grunt for a little saw. I'm not a Poulan fan, but have a few that were given too me by guys who could not repair them or did not like them.
Before I start work on a new to me saw of any kind I do a search and get an idea how much the saw sold for when new and the going used price if running good. I then know if it's evan worth while to whip on a dead horse.

I was into a little Husky saw awhile back and had to almost pull the piston just to replace the fuel line. (going in the back door)Good saw but not user friendly to work on.

 

[joe25DA]

Go find the parts diagram, and identify the carb.......you assume its oem. If is, the same diagrams will show the hose routing.

As a sidebar, why does one spend time on a Craftsman/Poulan anything. Those are dixie cup units.....

Not the older ones. The 80s-90s craftsman and Poulan were well made. They began making plastic, clamshell saws in the mid 90s. Not to upset anyone but the cheaper plastic saws were identical to some of the homeowner Husqvarna saws. The 2800, 3000, 3300, 3600 and the Poulan pro and craftsman version are all mag case, bolt on jug and adjustable oil pump saws and many are chrome bore. Easy to work on and fast cutting. I have a shed full of Poulan, husky, Stihl, Jred and the “good” Poulans run just as well as the pro Stihl and husky’s I have.