Crane job Saw

TreEmergencyB · Jun 19, 2011

Posted this in the chainsaw forum as well but them guys justed started yelling about full wrap on smaller saws.

Im looking for something lighter than a 361 with more power to pull a 16 or 18 in bar. For the reason i hate switching from the 200t to the 361 so soon or often id like to just grab one saw and not have to switch till im on just log. I would love to have a full wrap handle for awkward position cuts. From what i got from the chainsaw guys is either a 346xp or a modded 260 but neither could have a full wrap. Id like a climber perspective as well, but i prolly should just lug the 361 from the start.

deevo · Jun 19, 2011

TreEmergencyB said:
Posted this in the chainsaw forum as well but them guys justed started yelling about full wrap on smaller saws.

Im looking for something lighter than a 361 with more power to pull a 16 or 18 in bar. For the reason i hate switching from the 200t to the 361 so soon or often id like to just grab one saw and not have to switch till im on just log. I would love to have a full wrap handle for awkward position cuts. From what i got from the chainsaw guys is either a 346xp or a modded 260 but neither could have a full wrap. Id like a climber perspective as well, but i prolly should just lug the 361 from the start.

I use my 365 (same as 361 pretty much) or 026 that can run a 16 or 18" bar. We did a crane job the other day and one of my guys started with the ms-200t, then switched to the 361. My 365 was in the truck! it's when you have to switch to something bigger you feel it! But I here what you are saying!

tree md · Jun 19, 2011

Normally, I start off with my 260, 16" bar on crane jobs if I am starting off with relatively smallish leaders. From that I will go to the 044 when necessary. If I am in a bigger tree, cutting bigger wood to start with I will just start with my 361, 20" bar and switch out to the 044 when necessary. My main thing is I don't want to have to switch saws more than once on a large removal/crane job.

custom8726 · Jun 19, 2011

Generally use my 361 60% of the time, 372XP 30% 200t/338 5%, 395xp 5%.....

John Paul Sanborn · Jun 19, 2011

An 020 to start and then a 346 for near everything else. I know a few big riggers who run up to 28 inch on a 346, just keep it very sharp and it's all good. One has three separate 346 with different configurations.

Joey Cornell ran them with hard and softwood depth/angle configurations; for pine and cottonwood he would have a deeper raker and aggressive cutter, where oak/hickory he ran it much shallower.

It is all about weight and bulk in the tree, there are times when you need a 385 for a cut, but most of the time it is all macho overkill.

I replaced my 346+narrow kerf with a 260+narrow kerf and was very disappointed with the results. The power:weight is just not anywhere near the same.

MarquisTree · Jun 19, 2011

372xpw wiith a 20" works great for a small saw for crane jobs. We have a 395xp with 42" skip tooth setup for bigger cuts

Blakesmaster · Jun 19, 2011

On craners I either take a 361 w/20 or 16 inch into the tree from the start. The 200T is too small in my opinion to be of much use. I want the power to get through the cut in case I misread the pinch point.