Crankcase scratched around crank seal fitting

[Mr. Piste]

Hey, everyone!

I brought my saw (Stihl MS361) into the local Stihl dealer today in order to get the flywheel side crank seal pulled (I tried all kinds of methods on my own, but was afraid of scratching the crankcase), thinking it was a safer bet to have them do the work than my novice self. To make a long story short, they were a bit aggressive with taking the seal out, and now the crankcase around the seal fitting is all scratched up (seen below). None of the scratches go all the way from top to bottom of the fitting space, and the crankshaft is untouched. My question is how serious is this damage? And can I fix it by running a line of gasket sealer (ThreeBond 1194?) around the rim of the seal during installation?

BELOW: The series of scratches on the far left (not highlighted) are on the outside bevel of the seal fitting, only, and do not run down to where the seal will be.

Thanks so much for any help!

 

[pioneerguy600]

That would work fine for your install, there is very little pressure or vacuum in a crankcase so the threebond will seal it up fine.

 

[HarleyT]

I can't see the pics, why didn't you let them install the new seal?

 

[marti384]

I had a 346 with similar scratching, it ended up with a very small leak between the seal and case. I probably could have just left it, but decided to replace it and use a thin layer of yamabond like you are describing. It worked great, no more leak.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I can't see the pics, why didn't you let them install the new seal?

Put your glasses on J.

 

[blsnelling]

Sealant is indicated for that installation anyway. It should be fine. I understand your frustration!

 

[HarleyT]

I rebooted the puter.... They are coming up now....

 

[Mr. Piste]

Thanks, folks: this is very good to know! I can breath a sigh of relief, now. It's kinda funny, because this happened following the sales guy telling me that the official Stihl seal puller isn't a necessary tool for the job, and that using a dental tool or modified screwdriver is more time efficient (probably true). I was convinced, until I got this back into my shop and got a closer look at it. The guy wasn't sure if the OEM puller would work on more than just Stihl products, either, and it was outrageously expensive, so I shied away from it.

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

The OEM puller is quite expensive and works for most models if you have the correct sizes in the kit. They may be correct in terms of the time, but it isn't a significant difference imo. The puller wouldn't do that to your case, tho.
I use a modified screw driver these days. I used to go to my dealer and use their puller for free. It helps on the 026 seals but isn't needed.
I'd use a good sealer around the new seal. I bet it won't leak on ya (at least enough to affect tune).