CS-330t issue

[Kyler Monares]

CS-330t.
Bogs down and dies when I touch the throttle.
Saw starts right up, idles beautifully.
Pulled muffler and screen, clear.
Air filter clean
Dumped old gas and threw in some Tru Fuel premix. Starts and idles no problem. Then I pulled the cover and air filter off again and find a hose barb under the carb with no hose on it. There's no hose hanging inside or around. Isn't even a hole where a hose can be routed through anywhere under the filter cover. Ideas? Return to tank?
Took the top handle off and there's only a single fuel line coming from the tank.
This problem happened abruptly the way it was described to me. This was my dads saw.
I'm pretty new to working on saws. Been working with them for years though.

Edit: I've searched AS for similar problems with this model saw and they all seem to be fixed by cleaning the filter screen or someone even had a malfunctioning chain break or clutch. I have checked those and the chain turns freely

 

[jackjcc]

There isn't supposed to be a hose on that barb, don't worry about it.

Since you have the grey version, it's a bit older, grab a new spark plug and put it in.

The bog is probably a tuning issue. You are either getting too much fuel or not enough, probably too much.

The filter screen is inside the carb. If you want to check that you need to take the carb off, open the "top" as it sits on the saw and gently remove the two gaskets. Under the gaskets is a deep hole about 1/4" across and that hole has a screen across it down in there a little ways. Anything that gets by the fuel filter in the tank gets caught here.

You should be able to find a video on this, all two cycle carbs have similar construction and function so it won't have to a model specific video.


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[dougand3]

Strange that the metering diaphragm pressure release hole is a hose barb. My IPL shows the carb to be a WT 739. And they want a $100 to buy one!

 

[Kyler Monares]

Jackjcc,

The filter screen I was referring to was the one on the muffler but I'll pull the carb out and check that filter too! Thanks!

I tried turning the L screw either way to the stops and it didn't change anything. Do you think my problem is on the H side? This carb still has the plastic limiters on it

 

[jackjcc]

Lean out the H as well, if you aren't getting any adjustment then you may need a new needle valve. If fuel is getting past then it will make tuning hard.

Does the saw bog down in a way that says to much fuel? Or does it seem to get too much air? I can't really think of a way to type the difference. But A saw starving for fuel will also bog down, if the carb screen is plugged up that would by a symptom.


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[Kyler Monares]

Yeah I'm not sure what the difference in a lean bog vs rich big would sound like. I guess I have a feeling it's a rich bog?

 

[mountainlake]

The first thing to do is pull the limiter caps and give both the high and low a little more fuel then report back. Steve

 

[Kyler Monares]

How do I remove the limiter caps? The plastic is crimped in inside the little metal housing.

 

[Kyler Monares]

Btw screen looked clear....


Now if I can just get these damn plastic limiters out

 

[jackjcc]

Use a drywall screw. Screw in a little bit then pull them out. I'm pretty sure there are tabs that line up to slide out.


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[Kyler Monares]

Got the limiter caps out
Didn't turn the T screw
L is 2 turns out
H is 2.5 turns out. If I turn the H either way it bogs worse.
Do I need to lean out the L?

just made a cut with it and it felt like it had good power in wood.

PS holy **** this thing slings out more oil than my dads old Huqvarna 61. I even lowered the adjustable oiler. Maybe the little screw is broken

 

[dougand3]

I have an Echo CS-302S - much older little Echo. I think it would oil a 24" bar on max. I set screw at minimum and it's still more than enough on 14" bar.

 

[jackjcc]

This whole time I was thinking it wouldn't rev up. That's pretty normal for that saw. The exhaust had a "catalytic converter" in it and it seriously hampers air flow.

If you want to take care of that little big before it starts spooling up you would need to do some mods. Mostly cleaning out the muffler to get more flow.


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[Kyler Monares]

This whole time I was thinking it wouldn't rev up. That's pretty normal for that saw. The exhaust had a "catalytic converter" in it and it seriously hampers air flow.

If you want to take care of that little big before it starts spooling up you would need to do some mods. Mostly cleaning out the muffler to get more flow.


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Yeah it's ten times better now. It wouldn't rev up, before I couldn't even feather the throttle before it would bog and not increase rpms.
Yeah guys thanks for the help! I would never have thought to richen up the H screw to effect acceleration. I'll pull the muffler off and gut it
Anything else I can do to help waken this little bugger up?

 

[Kyler Monares]

I have an Echo CS-302S - much older little Echo. I think it would oil a 24" bar on max. I set screw at minimum and it's still more than enough on 14" bar.

I have the short 12" bar on this one. i need to touch up the chain with my new Oregon 520-120. The test cut I made before the video was curving hard to the right...

 

[mountainlake]

Yeah it's ten times better now. It wouldn't rev up, before I couldn't even feather the throttle before it would bog and not increase rpms.
Yeah guys thanks for the help! I would never have thought to richen up the H screw to effect acceleration. I'll pull the muffler off and gut it
Anything else I can do to help waken this little bugger up?

After you get the muff opened up good and retuned it will be woke up, Echo saws really come alive with a muff modd and good tuning. Steve

 

[Kyler Monares]

Copy that. Thanks again everyone