My tips for Alaskan style milling
1) Clean the log of as much grit and bark as you can and clear sufficient working space around the log.
2) if at all possible, get the log up off the ground onto gluts or sawhorses so you are milling in as standing a position as possible. You should not have to bend over significantly or mill on your knees.
3) place the log on a slope so that you are milling downhill and gravity aids the cutting process
4) start with a freshly sharpened chain with rakers set correctly and don't let the chain go blunt. Stop and sharpen or change chains often.
5) add extra handles to the mill or wrap handle on the saw so your arms are not spread apart. This allows you to comfortably lean on the mill with straighten arms. The more handles you have, The more variations in arm and standing position you can use which helps relieve fatigue. Add anti vibe grips to handles.
6) If you are milling over about 24" in width consider adding an auxiliary oiler to the outboard end of the bar to protect the bar and chain.
7) add rollers or wheels to the inboard side of the mill that makes contact with the log so the mill does not constantly jam up against the side of the log
8) use log rails that are longer than the log so that the mill can perch on the end of the log while the saw is being started
9) on really hard wood, if the log is partially dry, remove the first 6" or so of the starting end of the log, so you are not cutting into dead dry wood where you lose 90% of the chain sharpness.
10) when finishing a cut, before stopping the engine let it idle for 30 seconds or so, so it can cool down a bit .
11) orient the milling so the saw is downwind of the operator to reduce exposure to exhaust and sawdust.
12) stop to admire and chimp the wood grain often - remember you will never see it looking so vivid and natural again, EVER!
Things to watch out for
a) the CS bar and the CS milling rails not being parallel to each other across the mill. This will cause the mill to rise or more likely dive making it harder and harder to cut. This can be cause by poor construction or dropping or damaging a mill.
b) loose nuts/bolts/bits on the saw and mill. If they fall they are dangerous if they hit the chain and you may never see them again amongst the piles of sawdust generated by milling. Check all fasteners and use Loctite where appropriate.
c) loose mill/bar bolts. If you forget, the chain could be toast in fractions of a second.
d) PPE. High quality hearing protection is even more essential than regular sawing because of the prolonged exposure. Consider using 30dB+ muffs.
e) pushing too hard. If you have to push hard, something is not right usually its just 4) especially the rakers not set properly but occasionally its a)
That will do for now!
Cheers
) One thing about the mini is to make sure you get it squared up good because it is adjustable (slotted holes). Obviously all safety gear is a must. 
