CSM Questions

[dustytools]

Ive read in some past threads that you guys sharpen every two or three tanks of gas.Is this just a few quick strokes with a handheld file or is this something a little more precise? I have a 44 inch double ended bar with a bunch of cutters and sharpening takes a little time, I couldnt imagine having a 72 inch like aggie and maybe some of the others.I know sharp cutters make milling a whole lot easier so I was just curious about how some of you go about this. Also I wanted some opinions about oiling, I am running an aux.. oiler , do I need to keep the oiler in my saw full as well or will the aux.. oiler be enough as it is a pain taking the saw from the carriage to refill every time it runs dry. Thanks.

 

[CaseyForrest]

Depends on what you are cutting. Softwood is easier on the chain than hardwood. I use one of those Husky Roller Guides when out in the field, makes touch-ups very quick and easy. Ive gone as far as 5-6 tanks between sharpenings, and sometimes I only get through one cut. Having the bark on makes a HUGE difference, as the bark itself dulls chain, and the dirt it holds makes it even worse.

The Aux oiler is just that, an auxiliary. The saws oiler gets the top of the barn and chain, the Aux gets the bottom. Ive started using a 1 gallon Blitz gas can for oil refills while in the mill, the spout gets right in there with no spillage.

 

[dustytools]

The problem with my saw is that the oil fill is on the side of the saw that is down.

 

[CaseyForrest]

Well now....Have you thought about having another Aux oiler set up at the saw? Have it dump oil on the chain as it leaves the saw?

 

[dustytools]

Yes, I thought about that if it were necessary, I guess its better to be safe than sorry. I havent noticed any signs of over heating such as smoking or anything but I just dont want to chance ruining a 225 dollar bar. Thanks for your input Casey.

 

[CaseyForrest]

No problem, good luck!

 

[dustytools]

One more quick question. Is there a good way to check tension on your chain like how far it will pull away from the bar or something like that? I hate to sound stupid but I figured you guys who have been at this a while would know.

 

[CaseyForrest]

Throw everything together, take the slack out of the chain, then, while pulling up on the bar, take the rest of the slack out and tighten the bar nuts. If you can see more than 3 drivers when you pull the chain up in the middle of the top of the bar, its to loose.

 

[poleframer]

On my setup I ran a hose from the aux. oil tank on the mill frame to the inlet of the oil pump in the oil tank of the saw, so I only have to fill the one oil tank for both the tip oiler and the saw.

 

[dustytools]

I am running a granberg ripping chain and if im not mistaken the depth gauges are marked on the chain to be ground to.040 does this sound right and if so would I be better off running it at about .030 or .035 since my saw is only at about 60 ccs. I have sharpened four times now and the depth gauges are right around.035. Thanks.

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

I am running a granberg ripping chain and if im not mistaken the depth gauges are marked on the chain to be ground to.040 does this sound right and if so would I be better off running it at about .030 or .035 since my saw is only at about 60 ccs. I have sharpened four times now and the depth gauges are right around.035. Thanks.

If this is the same ripping chain they have on their web site, the only cutters that are marked to be .040" are the scoring cutters with no top plate. The clearing cutters are supposed to be .030".

This is one of the grind patterns I'll be experimenting with soon. In your case, I'd stick with specs in the picture.

 

[dustytools]

This is what is confusing me. Every depth gauge on my chain has a 40 stamped on it.Maybe im mistaken but I thought that was the recommended depth below cutters. Then I look at the picture of the granberg chain that aggie posted and it is different from what I have.Sure enough I found the same pic. in the paperwork that came with my mill only thing is my chain wasnt ground per the pic that I see, reason being is that all of my cutters are filed at 5 degrees. I have seen posts where guys have turned ordinary chain into ripping chain by simply refiling to 5 degrees and setting depth gauges to 30 to 35 grand. Guess im wondering if I recieved one of their chains or not. This is by far the biggest stumbling block that I have hit so far.

 

[carvinmark]

This is what is confusing me. Every depth gauge on my chain has a 40 stamped on it.Maybe im mistaken but I thought that was the recommended depth below cutters. Then I look at the picture of the granberg chain that aggie posted and it is different from what I have.Sure enough I found the same pic. in the paperwork that came with my mill only thing is my chain wasnt ground per the pic that I see, reason being is that all of my cutters are filed at 5 degrees. I have seen posts where guys have turned ordinary chain into ripping chain by simply refiling to 5 degrees and setting depth gauges to 30 to 35 grand. Guess im wondering if I recieved one of their chains or not. This is by far the biggest stumbling block that I have hit so far.

I just finished grinding a new chain for my mill. I used a full comp chain,reground to 5 degrees and 30 thou on the rakers. This has worked well for me.
Mark

 

[dustytools]

Thanks carvinmark. I hope im not boring you all to death with all of my dumba__ questions. Hopefully no one will be offended by my attemp to learn from their mistakes all well as my own. Thanks again.

 

[carvinmark]

Thanks carvinmark. I hope im not boring you all to death with all of my dumba__ questions. Hopefully no one will be offended by my attemp to learn from their mistakes all well as my own. Thanks again.

I don't think your questions are dumb. I have had to learn from my mistakes and I sure wish I would have had all the help these guys offer, it would have saved me a lot of time and cash. We are all here to learn and hopefully help each other.
Mark

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

This is what is confusing me. Every depth gauge on my chain has a 40 stamped on it.Maybe im mistaken but I thought that was the recommended depth below cutters. Then I look at the picture of the granberg chain that aggie posted and it is different from what I have.Sure enough I found the same pic. in the paperwork that came with my mill only thing is my chain wasnt ground per the pic that I see, reason being is that all of my cutters are filed at 5 degrees. I have seen posts where guys have turned ordinary chain into ripping chain by simply refiling to 5 degrees and setting depth gauges to 30 to 35 grand. Guess im wondering if I recieved one of their chains or not. This is by far the biggest stumbling block that I have hit so far.

The chain you have is probably Carlton, Oregon, or another brand sold by Granberg. The 40 is an identification mark that the manufacturer uses to distinguish the chain type. Maybe someone can jump in here and help ID dusty's chain. I can't find it (a picture would help).

For your chain, I'd recommend keeping the rakers between .030 and .035 like you have it.

BTW, if this is the biggest stumbling block you have hit, you're lucky. Just wait...you'll get what's coming to ya'...BWHAHAHA(evil laugh)!

just kidding

 

[Lakeside53]

Ive read in some past threads that you guys sharpen every two or three tanks of gas.Is this just a few quick strokes with a handheld file or is this something a little more precise? I have a 44 inch double ended bar with a bunch of cutters and sharpening takes a little time, I couldnt imagine having a 72 inch like aggie and maybe some of the others.I know sharp cutters make milling a whole lot easier so I was just curious about how some of you go about this. Also I wanted some opinions about oiling, I am running an aux.. oiler , do I need to keep the oiler in my saw full as well or will the aux.. oiler be enough as it is a pain taking the saw from the carriage to refill every time it runs dry. Thanks.

I use a 12v battery powered grinder from Stihl (relabled Granberg) - just plug it into the truck. Works fine as I can sharpen the chain from one side... (mill is in the way for a file from the back side).

Keep the saw filled also... What saw are you are running? You could probably make an attachment to the existing cap and wrap it around to the top side.

 

[dustytools]

I am running an old Stihl 08S with the oil fill on the bottom when milling. I think im gonna try an idea that poleframer gave me which was to add a second line from the auxillary tank to the pump line inside the saws oil reservoir. Once again I really appreciate everyones patience and GREAT advice.

 

[carvinmark]

I am running an old Stihl 08S with the oil fill on the bottom when milling. I think im gonna try an idea that poleframer gave me which was to add a second line from the auxillary tank to the pump line inside the saws oil reservoir. Once again I really appreciate everyones patience and GREAT advice.

I wish I would have thought of doing that(I over think sometimes). Bet I would have bought the 090 that was offered to me a month ago, I passed cause of the location for filling the oil res. Now it all makes sense how everybody has no problem! There is sure some great info here,I am paying attention.
Mark

 

[poleframer]

Works great for me, take off the oil suction hose in the oil tank and run a hose from that barb to the aux. tank, seems to pull the oil just fine, just dont kink it.One nice thing about the 090 is the size of the fuel tank, havent used a full tankup on a cut yet.
Cut some slabs today, heres some pics.
Sure wish I could put some time into re-configuring my sawhorses to turn the log and quartersaw it, or something like it.
Russell