Curing after Chainsaw Milling - Are thinner slabs better?

[West]

I have recently milled some 2.5' deep (Vitex) hardwood slabs. Is it better to fillet and dry at this depth to avoid splits and cracks and then mill to half that depth later, or to mill each slab in half depth now so that it can dry more evenly?

My other question is what would you recommend in terms of products to apply to the slabs to ensure slower and more even drying and are these applied just to the ends or all over?

Thanks for your comments.

 

[BobL]

Firstly, Welcome to AS.

if you have good conditions under which to dry lumber ie under cover away from direct sunlight, well stickered so it gets good airflow around it, and are able to weigh down the lumber, and you know what size you need, then you can cut immediately to the size you need. If you can't do this then I would leave it thicker eg 2". The larger size will still air dry but to reduce cracking I recommend it be well stickered and covered so it does not get direct sunlight on it. The cover should still allow some air flow otherwise you might get mould developing. The amount of twist generated in lumber is related to the tensions parts of the original timber is under and how the log is milled and sometimes there is not much you can do about it unless you can turn your log while milling.

 

[john taliaferro]

Yes welcome, what Bob said , old latex paint on the ends if its a important log . to me if it cracks its still fire wood .

 

[smokinj]

Black walnut I use bee wax on top and bottom and parafane View attachment 188347 on the ends. Have to admit this is the only wood I look for any more.

This is a Guitar blank. Very heavy waxed and 2-1/2 years old. I like milling like Bob say 2 inch+ so its much easier to keep from cupping or cracking. You can see in the pic on black walnut you can still get a few cracks. Thens is when the real skill starts.

 

[mikeb1079]

Is it better to fillet and dry at this depth to avoid splits and cracks and then mill to half that depth later, or to mill each slab in half depth now so that it can dry more evenly?

like bob said just mill em to your desired thickness. 1 1/4 will dry twice as fast (roughly) as 2 1/2" thick slabs.

My other question is what would you recommend in terms of products to apply to the slabs to ensure slower and more even drying and are these applied just to the ends or all over?

most guys just coat the ends with some sort of sealant, such as anchorseal or latex paint. something to prevent excess moisture loss out of the ends, which will split badly if you don't seal them.
good luck!

 

[AaronB]

Do most of you guys use the 1" thickness to dry 1 year rule when air drying, so if its 2" it will take 2 years? I usually mill my slabs about 1 1/4" thick then bring them into my shop for few weeks before I use them. Don't seem to have much issue when using them for woodworking projects.

 

[mikeb1079]

hey aaron, i've noticed that there's a limit to how dry you can get lumber by air drying alone. seems to be around 12% give or take. some species reach this threshold way sooner than others, such as black cherry (in my experience). so no, i don't always wait a year to use milled wood. when it gets down to around 12-15% i usually bring it inside and let it dry out further like you. i've not had any negative side effects doing it this way.
cheers
mb