Custom waterjet chainsaw bar

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kholmz

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I'm thinking of water jetting an artistic pattern into my chainsaw bar and am wondering if it can be done. I would choose a pattern that would minimize the loss of structural integrity, but I am also wondering if the metal in the center of a bar is solid, laminated or riveted together? Anyone have any thoughts on this crazy idea?
 
Bars with a replaceable tip (containing the sprocket) are solid. Ones with non replaceable sprockets are laminated. There's spot welds holding those together. On some bars you can see the welds if you examine closely.

Some bars have holes cut into the steel to lighten them. But there's always a lighter material put into the holes, either plastic or aluminium. I think it's so the bar won't catch or drag on the wood.
 
Bars with a replaceable tip (containing the sprocket) are solid. Ones with non replaceable sprockets are laminated. There's spot welds holding those together. On some bars you can see the welds if you examine closely.

Some bars have holes cut into the steel to lighten them. But there's always a lighter material put into the holes, either plastic or aluminium. I think it's so the bar won't catch or drag on the wood.

Thanks Eric. I don't think I want to try and water jet a spot welded bar. I also don't want to waste too much money attempting this. I wanted to start with a cheap bar. https://www.amazon.com/Stihl-Chainsaw-Guide-Part-B120A0LSSN/dp/B01FSYSF22 It says it has a laminate sprocket, does this mean the rest of the bar could be solid?

It would be interesting to see if a cutout would get caught in the wood. The cut from the chain is wider than the bar thickness, but the wood chips and sawdust could get caught and bind.
 
That's a laminated bar. I agree that cutting holes in a laminated bar is probably not a good idea. Maybe it's be ok if you welded the laminations in the holes that you cut.

Getting stuff caught in the holes is only my theory. But all the lightweight bar makers stuff their holes with something, even if it's not stiff or strong (i.e. plastic in Tsumura and Sugihara bars). That costs more so there's got to be a reason why they do it.
 
Maybe it's just me, but I've always thought of a chainsaw as a chainsaw, and not a piece of artistic whatever.

As far as thoughts go, why bother? :confused:

I'm not trying to be mean-spirited, just rational and well grounded.
I'm sure you have some sort of hobby, it's like that, but with a chainsaw.

To the OP here's a few that have been done on mills.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/custom-chainsaw-bar-2.287463/
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/stihl-20-wide-nose-bar-psp-extreme.308221/
Sure you could also do muriatic acid etching on the center of a reduced weight Oregon bar, they are a bit pricy, but would look sweet.
 
If you could stay away from the spot welds, I don’t think it would be a problem... but the gumming up of the bar with sawdust would be a real problem.

My suggestion would be to use a solid bar, then fill the cuts with an epoxy, ether clear or colored, so the dust can’t collect.

Somewhere I have seen a bar with a bunch of different sized wholes cut in it... and they didn’t put anything back in.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Each to his/her own if you are restoring a saw to better than from the factory & use as a shelf saw & you want to spend the time materials that is your call but for use I guess it would be a some what labour of love in terms of cutting efficiency it would be a pointless exercise but your choice I would have thought a milling cutter would have been a better bet
 
If you could stay away from the spot welds, I don’t think it would be a problem... but the gumming up of the bar with sawdust would be a real problem.

My suggestion would be to use a solid bar, then fill the cuts with an epoxy, ether clear or colored, so the dust can’t collect.

Somewhere I have seen a bar with a bunch of different sized wholes cut in it... and they didn’t put anything back in.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I think its a "cool" idea to do a shelf queen for sure. Say water jetting out the Stihl name on the bar, filling that in with a red translucent filler of some sought and back light it. That would.look badass for an over thr top CAD collector.
As for practicality in the field when a saw is used for its i tended purpose.......NO.
 
What about etching? You could do it on any bare metal surface and it isn't complex to achieve a good result. I fiddle around with knife making sometimes and the technique is used quite extensively for logos and various surface effects on knife blades.

It probably could be done on any bar, without disturbing the integrity of the bar in anyway.

:cheers:
 
Sure you could also do muriatic acid etching
:rolleyes:
What about etching? You could do it on any bare metal surface and it isn't complex to achieve a good result. I fiddle around with knife making sometimes and the technique is used quite extensively for logos and various surface effects on knife blades.

It probably could be done on any bar, without disturbing the integrity of the bar in anyway.

:cheers:
Hey now you just did this :rock::buttkick::lol:.
 
Say water jetting out the Stihl name on the bar

Yep, I thought about jetting the Stihl brand name, or other cool or humorous sayings into the bar, the only problem is that the words are mirrored when viewed from the other side. I also thought of the epoxy idea that someone suggested, and I like that other than the fact that if it was done correctly it would just look like the design was stenciled on...unless it was clear or opaque epoxy which might work.

This is just a novelty item, it's been a long winter:) I would have a spare bar handy for sure.
 
Yep, I thought about jetting the Stihl brand name, or other cool or humorous sayings into the bar, the only problem is that the words are mirrored when viewed from the other side. I also thought of the epoxy idea that someone suggested, and I like that other than the fact that if it was done correctly it would just look like the design was stenciled on...unless it was clear or opaque epoxy which might work.

This is just a novelty item, it's been a long winter:) I would have a spare bar handy for sure.
The only way around that is a Palindrome. (Believe me, I didnt know what they were called either)
Here's a link to a couple of lists http://examples.yourdictionary.com/palindrome-examples.html
Or
http://www.rinkworks.com/words/palindromes.shtml
I like the "dontnod" would fit the bill pretty good or maybe it could be a
"Rotator" nose bar lol
 
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