Cutting cookies

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

NebClimber

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Jul 28, 2003
Messages
206
Reaction score
0
Location
Columbus, NE
I had a large job I could not complete. It is a mulberry that leans over a house and leans over a crappy porch that has fiberglass paneling for roof.

Then I realized I could cut "cookies" or slabs out of the stem running over the porch and then throw these slabs into the landing zone.

Question: what is the best way to cut "cookies" so they stay on the stem after the cut is complete?
 
Whatever the angle of the tree, make your cut horizontal to the ground.
And don't cut any more than you can handle.

You're either gonna push it off with one hand while you hold on to the saw with the other, or
you're gonna leave it on the trunk, hook up your saw, and use BOTH hands to throw it.
 
Mis-match or bypass or snap cut...cut partially through from the back side then cut just above the kerf from the other side. Break off the hinge and toss.

Like MB says, always make the cuts parallel to the ground.

Tom
 
Yet another twist is to slow down at the end of a straight pass, watch the kerf close, pull the chainsaw out and cut the last few fibers with your handsaw. -Straight through or as a 'backcut' from the barkside. The name of the game is maintaining control whichever of these methods you employ.:angel:
 
Ditto what stumper said, but send for some pencil sized sticks or use a small tied off wedge to put into the kerf so you can cut all but 1/4 inch. The extra time putting the saw up is usually worth it with big stuff in a small pocket LZ.

TT
 
if you cut them to big and can't control the piece of wood you may really f$%£ up,also cut ta chest hieght not above yor head for maximum control(this may sound stupid but i've seen a lot of guys do this then not been able to control it when lifted off):eek:
 
If cookies are cut to the right thickness they make very nice temporary stepping "stones" for a garden path. Mulberry's got an attractive grain, and tough--4-6" slabs would last several years in NE.

I've saved myself hauling hassle several times that way:D

Hey Neb, had any good Cuban sandwiches lately?:p
 
Pssst, Brian. Sometimes I one hand the saw to. That is something tophandles allow to be done SAFELY by experienced operators. FWIW, in big wood I ususally am 2 handing then shutting off the saw, clipping it in or dropping onto the lanyard then 2 handing the chunk.
 
Weenie police... call the weenie police

This thread has spun completely out of control. I'm stepping in to restore some law and order here. This weenie-calling CRAZY TALK has gotta go! We must stop the monster. QUICK, everybody........:laugh:
 
here's a little trick I'll use if you want the stuff to 'slide' off a bit

Make a bypass cut but angle (slightly) the big cut down and towards your LZ. Then finish from the other side below the other cut. this creates a step which holds the piece from sliding till you're ready. Put the saw away, break the bypass, lift the step side and send it sliding off the side, fun fun.

You can make the second cut above it you trust the bypass and don't want the 'holding step'
 
Back
Top