Daemons Picture thread

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daemon2525

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Apr 16, 2002
Messages
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Location
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Each Picture has a different story. I know you all like pics so here they are.

#1

Drive way blocked.

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#2

You're looking at the dogs and NOT MY DAUGHTER RIGHT?

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#3

I got my new 260 Pinched in the DAMN log and had to use a floor jack to free it!!!


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#4

The results


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#5

Tell me how my notch was wrong. I thought that it would NEVER fall. I had a good lean, Wedges and I still had to cut nearly through the hinge to get it to fall down.

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#5 how your hinge went wrong

Here's what i see...the bottom of your face cut is not level with the back cut. Seems that the "bud" side of the stump is level with the back cut giving the tree something to rest on as it starts to fall. Your hinge should look more like the glasses side on your picture all the way across. Also that tree seemed to be standing dead wood which always takes less hinge thickness [in my experience anyway]. Your face cut could have been a bit deeper into the tree [less like a quarter and more like a third]. This is only my .02.I'm sure you'll get more opinions on that hinge. ????, we're all here to learn anyway. Nice saw and hounds. I swear I wasn't looking at your daughter... Stay safe and don't worry as that tree went where you wanted...
Chuck:cheers:
 
Nice link! Now I see I've been doing it wrong since I started cutting in jr. high. Maybe somebody can tell me what's wrong with the way I've been doing it? Here goes:
1. First cut is horizontal close to the ground 1/3 to 1/2 through the trunk.
2. Second cut is at a 45 angle shooting to intersect the horizontal cut just a bit before the end of the cut so the notch comes out easy. This a like a conventional notch except I make the horizontal cut first and try to undershoot the 45 cut just a tad so I won't have a problem getting the notch loose.
3. I start the back cut at about a 30 angle and shoot for an intersection just above the end of the horizontal cut. I stop cutting with an inch or so left for the hinge. What's the problem with having a 30 or so angle on the back cut? If I use a wedge it just seems like it's easier to get them to fall with a 30 angle on the back cut rather than horizontal. IOW with the angle it seems the wedge is more pushing the tree over rather than having to lift and push the tree with the horizontal cut.
4. After the tree is down I go back and finish the last 1/2-2/3 of the horizontal cut I started with.

Back when I started cutting trees (with Dad's Homey c-72 bow saw) around '77 or so about the only instruction available was "put a notch in it right there son" and "be careful around that bow"! I always respected that bow and never had any bad things happen to me with it. Dad loaned the saw to one of my football team's assistant coaches one time. Dad told him never to take the fork off. This guy was a huge bear of a man that could grab my face mask and lift me off the ground. Of course he had a tree too big for the bow to go through with the fork on so he decided to take it off. Wrong move! The saw kicked back and cut a line though his right cheek and eyebrow and nearly took out his right eye. It wasn't until many years later I found out that that saw was normally sold with a 21" bar. I bought the bar and never touched the bow again.
 

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