Damage Free Day

[Joe]

Hi, guys;

What methods do you guys employ to ensure you do no damage during the day. It seems more like an attitude thing than actual methods used. Damage during pruner work seems unavoidable sometimes, example: dented gutters, hole in screens, little annoying things.

Joe

 

[TREETX]

I have found a system that works 100%

Don't drop or chunck wood and branches on gutter, shrubs, screens, roof areas, pool covers, cars, etc.

 

[treeclimber165]

For me it is simply a matter of knowing exactly where each limb or chunk will go before I cut it.
Sometimes I get rushed and try to go too fast, taking unnecessary risks. That is when a limb hits the gutter or bounces back into the pool screen. Usually when I try to hold on to a limb and toss it rather than putting a rope on it. I keep forgetting that my right arm isn't as strong as it used to be, and if the limb is too heavy I can drop it before I'm ready. ('Grab and Toss' is NOT an acceptable method for handling limbs- before Joe or Mike Maass jumps on me for unsafe practices!)

 

[ORclimber]

I usually walk the jobsite and ask myself what could go wrong, then prevent it. Move all lawn ornaments, potted plants, mark sprinkler heads and unmovable landscape lights with cones. Plywood on soft lawns, leaned up against the house to protect windows, or leaned up against the house to prevent paint damage by brush draggers. Use a lowering line if you aren't 100% positive you can man handle it. Cut smaller pieces if in doubt, I've seen more than 1 broken water main because a climber cut big wood because he could. I preventing damage is a combination of attitude, experience, and a little luck.

 

[treeclimber165]

Excellent point, OR. I guess that part is so ingrained that I forgot to mention it. As with most tasks, the most important part is the prep. In order to avoid obstacles, I must first identify obstacles. Move what you can, protect what you can, maximize working area to make the task easier.

And THEN kick yourself for letting that limb slip out of your hand and go butt-first into the pool screen!

 

[TREETX]

I agree with OR. I always get pizzed when people climbing for me don't take the time to move patio furniture and POTted plants.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Brian, I don't have a problem with cut and chuck. You didn't say you were using a chainsaw one handed or anything bad like that. I assumed you were refering to cutting witha hand saw.

One guy I work for from time to time makes the climber pay half for any damage he does, up to the $500 deductable. It makes me mad, but it works. If it comes out of my pocket and I get paid by the hour...i have no reason to wreck stuff.

Why can't anyone spell my last name?

 

[treeman82]

I also, move anything that is moveable before ascending. After that its just a matter of attitude and knowing what you can and can't do. I like to play with the guys on the ground... I can't climb.. or something like that... Feels good when everything is on the ground and there is no damage... the customer and my employees are complementing me "good job"

 

[Joe]

Good replies so far. Pole pruner cuts are where I'm most likely to get into trouble. Any1 care to comment further about pole pruning over obstacles like slate and tile roofs?

Joe

 

[treeclimber165]

Originally posted by Joe
Any1 care to comment further about pole pruning over obstacles like slate and tile roofs?

I try not to do it unless it's tiny deadwood twigs. If it's big enough to hurt the roof, it's big enough for me to get to it and cut it with a chainsaw after putting a line on it.

90% of my polesaw work is knocking out dead twigs. I don't make many cuts with it unless I honestly cannot get to it. Too much work for my shoulders and neck. I can almost always get to any 3" cut in a tree without too much effort, and usually smaller tips also.

Many times I will intentionally drop smaller limbs on a roof brushy end first. The trick is to read the limb and time the cut so the limb bounces off the roof and the butt goes out in the yard. The first decent climber I ever worked for did this all the time and I picked up on the trick. I freaked the first time I saw it but then had no problem with the method. I don't think I've ever broken a tile roof (that I can remember).

 

[lync]

no damage

use that pole saw to get a hand line out on the branch your going to prune off,toss the line to a branch above and tie it off.
after you cut it then you can mor easily deal with the load.

 

[TREETX]

This bring to mind a point I always tells those I work with.

There are 2 types of damage.

Actual damage and percieved damage.

Both are very, very important.


Work while the customer is away and the latter is greatly diminished.

 

[Greg]

I agree with Brian, if the pole saw cuts are big enough to cause damage then you probably could have climbed to it and cut smaller or rigged it. Even when I look at a job and say that I don't need to rig anything I'll still take up a lowering line, becasue usually I'm wrong and something will need to be tied off. Before I was good with my rigging skills I used to have small damage, and thumps to the roof a little louder than people like to hear. People on the ground see all of that and end up saying --"got lucky on that one", or "that one was kinda close". If your ground crew says this a lot you should take anothher look at how you do things. It is much better to come out of the tree 10 minutes later knowing that things went like clockwork because you were safe and rigged what needed to be rigged. My brother who helps on the ground used to say I needed to call my business "Near Miss Tree Svc". I have committed myself to taking as long as I need to do it the right way --- the safe way.
Greg
--ps. if you are using that pole saw a lot you are not climbing enough.

 

[Menchhofer]

Probably the most important and cautious cut of the day on any tree should be the last cut. Thus the "last cut symdrome." This cut is basically any cut made with it being the last cut in a series of cuts.

Whether it is a limb, stub, or trunk chunking, the last cut to be made before the remaining tree can be felled is usually the one to be the most careful with.

I do not know how many times we have worked on a tree, rigging, roping, careful not to cause damage, and have been careless with the last cut, to save time. Should we put a rope on it? should we tie it off? YES. If you have any doubt always error in favor of being safe. Do not hurry.

If you are behind your schedule and are not making the money you expected because the tree is taking you more time, just live with it. Do not hurry to the extent where you can damage the property or yourself.

 

[My2cents]

Offering a small money incentive to your employee's go's a long way.

 

[ORclimber]

Joe, you can get 99% control with making pole pruner cuts. Cut about halfway through the branch with the pruner then let go, reach out farther on the branch grab it with the pole pruner and tear it off, pull the branch back to yourself and toss it wherever you want it. Then make your proper cut, you'll just be dropping a few inch stub onto the roof. You might have to make a mini snap cut to avoid making a rip cut depending on what kind of wood your cutting. This is slower than just letting the branches fly, but it works. This is a technique used over live powerlines to prevent a spindly branch from crossing the phases.

 

[Newfie]

Staying at home and posting on AS all day is sure fire way to have a damage free day.

 

[ORclimber]

100% Fool proof

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

My first window broke this past fall when i was doing soem roof clearance on a Norway maple. These were just finger diameter branches and one inverted screwy and siled but first into a storm pane.

I don't know how many thousands of this type of cut I've made before.

Traded thinning a few small trees in lieu of repair.