De comp valve / button ?

[Therealrusty]

Has any one devised a gadget that will hold the button down on Stihl saws while starting ?
I aent what I use to be as far as strenght goes and I dont have the strength anymore to be able to pull the rope and hold down the button @ the same time.
Thanks fellas

 

[Mad Professor]

If it is working properly you push it down and it releases compression on the first cycle compression cycle to allow the inertia of the crank/rod/piston to be overcome. It should pop back up on it's own.

You might need cleaning or a new valve. What type/model of saw?

 

[muddy42]

This doesn't sound right. Decomp buttons should be pushed down once, if the saw doesn't fire, the button stays down, even if you pull the cord multiple times. Only once the saw fires, the explosion pops it back off. Normally this is when you put the choke off, press the button back in and try again. Repeat until the engine starts properly.

Something is wrong with your decomp valve if it pops off after every pull of the rope. I'd suggest removing it, cleaning it out with a wire brush and carb cleaner and trying again. They are relatively simple things. Check that its sealing properly, because they can leak which causes tuning issues or fries the engine.

Or just replace it. I always have one spare or even a blank bolt to shut it off to isolate any issues.

 

[Therealrusty]

Thanks fellas

 

[Wood Doctor]

I've had several owners request a solid threaded plug installed and then throw the decomp valve away because they never use it.

 

[Therealrusty]

I've had several owners request a solid threaded plug installed and then throw the decomp valve away because they never use it.

I wouldnt be one of them- to much compression for me to pull with out it

 

[Patrick62]

Keep throwing chips if you can!
Up here in my rarefied atmosphere, I never use the compression release.
A few times I irritated some of the folks up here, I am sorry about that.
I said "if you don't have enough pull to get it to start, then you should not be using it"

Now down in your thicker air, the saw would have significantly more compression. Quite possible that I would have trouble getting it to kick over, and I am 200 pounds and a long way from weak (but there are days that I feel my age...)

I have replaced a few of those with the plugs... Seems reasonable to delete the thing.

 

[Therealrusty]

This is a ported saw that has a lot of compression,

 

[NSEric]

I modded the decomp in my 660 clone to make it stop popping out with every pull.
It's an oem husky decomp not the aftermarket one but it still popped every time I pulled the saw over.
What I did was drill 2 extra 1/8 holes in the side of it, problem solved, it pulls easy and the decomp doesnt pop until it's supposed to.
You have to be careful you dont hit the internals while drilling and clean it good afterwards but it's an easy mod to do.
Start with one extra hole and try it, of it works normal you're done, if it still pops early drill another hole.

 

[Woody912]

they must not have ever had a torn rotator cuff.

I've had several owners request a solid threaded plug installed and then throw the decomp valve away because they never use it

 

[Therealrusty]

they must not have ever had a torn rotator cuff.

I have but not on the side I pull on

 

[Therealrusty]

I modded the decomp in my 660 clone to make it stop popping out with every pull.
It's an oem husky decomp not the aftermarket one but it still popped every time I pulled the saw over.
What I did was drill 2 extra 1/8 holes in the side of it, problem solved, it pulls easy and the decomp doesnt pop until it's supposed to.
You have to be careful you dont hit the internals while drilling and clean it good afterwards but it's an easy mod to do.
Start with one extra hole and try it, of it works normal you're done, if it still pops early drill another hole.

Can you give me a aprox idea of where to drill?

 

[Woody912]

I have but not on the side I pull on

two years ago my grandson had to start my saw for me

 

[Therealrusty]

I will probably be there one day but wont have anyone to do it for me

 

[huskihl]

I will probably be there one day but wont have anyone to do it for me

Hi Konrad

Try a 572 decomp. Or you can try drilling an extra hole or 2.

 

[Therealrusty]

Hi Konrad

Try a 572 decomp. Or you can try drilling an extra hole or 2.

Thanks Kevin!
Still working on the choke lever issue- after that gets fixed I might not need it

 

[huskihl]

Thanks Kevin!
Still working on the choke lever issue- after that gets fixed I might not need it

Aftermarket tanks are like a box of chocolates. Never know what you’re going to get

 

[Jusgunn3]

Aftermarket tanks are like a box of chocolates. Never know what you’re going to get

Haha my boy and I are watching Forrest Gump, perfect timing haha.

 

[Edward M Sybert]

OK guys. I'm 80 years old and did have a torn rotator cuff on my "pulling" side. The repair was not able to get all the muscles working properly so I'm in need of help with my Echo CS 490. It's a good saw and does everything I ask it to do - once it's started. So, is it possible to add a decompression valve to my saw? Or, would the cost of doing so outweigh the cost of selling this one and buying a different saw with a factory decomp valve? Many thanks, Ed

 

[Therealrusty]

I am not 100% sure but I believe that a port would have to be bored on the top of the cylinder, then threaded for the valve, and before that the fins on top would have to be milled off flat with the top of the cylinder. But I wouldnt know if the cylinder design would accept that anyway as it wasnt designed & engineered for the valve, not to mention access in the top housing cover for access to it, bottom line way to much $$ and hassle, only person that might do all that would be someone who has their own milling machine and wanted a challenge.
So I would say scrap that idea and possibly go battery powered- my neighbor loves his battery powered saw